M38 Leaf Spring help

Discussion topics on Willys Overland M series vehicles
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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 »

I would think spring steel would not ream or drill out very well. I'd leave the spring alone and just put in a greaseable CJ bolt set up. That's what I'm doing. If it's concours, I'd buy original springs. Since you are going with crown, drilling the shackle out to 9/16 would be easier, and they always said brass on steel wears longer than steel on steel. John
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Ryan_M
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Post by Ryan_M »

oilleaker1 wrote:I would think spring steel would not ream or drill out very well. I'd leave the spring alone and just put in a greaseable CJ bolt set up. That's what I'm doing. If it's concours, I'd buy original springs. Since you are going with crown, drilling the shackle out to 9/16 would be easier, and they always said brass on steel wears longer than steel on steel. John

Well, sign me up for the Greaseable-Pivot-Bolt-Mod-Club. I just ordered four greaseable bolts and will drill the frame mounts accordingly.

Still seems like sacrilege even on an old beater but if it ever gets restored that's only eight of about a million drilled or rotted holes that will need to be addressed.
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Rick_L
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Post by Rick_L »

Eight? There are only 4 pivot bolts.
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Ryan_M
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Post by Ryan_M »

4 bolts but there two holes in each spring hanger.
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Ryan_M
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Post by Ryan_M »

In case anyone was wondering I did get these springs to fit tonight. Unfortunately I did have to drill 9/16" holes in the spring hangers so I could install greaseable pivot bolts. I hate drilling anything, even on a beater like my M38, but I really didn't have any other practical options.

I pressed out the rubber/metal bushing that was originally intended for the pivot end and used that side (now with no bushings at all) for the shackle. The other end of the spring (the one with the smaller wrap and a brass bushing) fit perfectly with the new greaseable pivot bolt.

As always, I appreciate the help here.
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