Driving slow, real slow.....

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cabinfever
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Driving slow, real slow.....

Post by cabinfever »

...about 1 mph. How would you do it your jeep?

When I carried three WWII veterans in the 4th of July parade, I was riding the clutch in-and-out, in-and-out. I have another parade on Saturday where I'll be accompanying two more WWII vets and prefer not to give my left leg a work out.

I plan on adjusting the idle speed way down, but I fear that might not be enough. Should I drive my A1 in low range? There are four 90º turns in this parade and I don't want to harm my differential.

If I were to install lock out hubs and keep them "unlocked" could I drive safely in low range? I don't have time to do this for Saturday, but maybe in the future if this will work.

What are your suggestions? Thanks!
Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388

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whydahdvr
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Post by whydahdvr »

A friend of mine who drove his MB in parades clued me in - 4WL. If you have locking hubs you can set the throttle low and crawl along in 4WLow. But I found in my last parade I still had to wait until I had enough distance to make it worthwhile. But that saves your clutch and leg.
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RICKG
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Post by RICKG »

I do the 4LO crawl w/hubs unlocked, throttle set 1 click.
Real comfy and you're not in the clutch the whole time..
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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MODIFIED
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Post by MODIFIED »

x3 on the f-freewheel hub, 4L and the cruise control (throttle-cable).
Always Looking for M170 Parts and bits ;)
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4x4M38
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Post by 4x4M38 »

My uncle had a jeep modified for quail hunting when I was growing up in Florida.

Had a box on the back that would hold 5 dogs stacked two on bottom with three on top. A gun/ammo box was mounted on the front of the box.

You could sit on the gun box, steer with your foot, whistle in your mouth, shotgun in hand, the jeep in 4 wheel granny and the throttle pulled out to the first click and follow pointers all day.

Only had to stop to pick up the birds!
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citabra
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Post by citabra »

I would love to see a picture!!
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Bretto
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Post by Bretto »

The last 2 years for the 4th of July parade, I just pulled my front prop shaft. I don't have locking hubs. And like other said 4L and go.
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maeserik
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Post by maeserik »

I removed the security on the transfercase, i can drive in low on 2wd.

When i need much pull power i always use low and 4wd together, otherwise the power on the rearaxle is too much.

Erik
1942 GPW 71336 my son's jeep restored now
1951 M38 MC11891
1953 VW beetle (genuine german Käfer )
1957 fantastic wife

http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showgal ... p?cat=1865

and this webside
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Phil4280
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Post by Phil4280 »

Hi there!
As a stop gap fix until you got lock out hubs you could remove your front drive shaft

Phil....
Ex Aust Army Engineer ;
M3 Stuart Lt tank,1942 C8A HUW, Ex mil Landrovers,1ton Humber & Austin Champ, Mk1 Ferret scoutcar,trailers & Miltary radios.
Current projects:- M606A3 and 1958 Landrover 106mm RCL gun buggy
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skyjeep50
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Post by skyjeep50 »

X4 - lock out hubs in 2WD mode, tranny and trans in low range 4WD - parade mode.
1951 M38
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cabinfever
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Post by cabinfever »

Thanks for all the replies!

It looks like a set of locking hubs are in my future.

For Saturday's parade, I plan on removing the front driveshaft.

So, I remove the two U-bolts at the rear end of the front driveshaft, unscrew the seal cap, and then pull the shaft out of the front yoke....right? Then tie the front yoke to the frame or axle so it's not flopping around? Is this the method, or am I missing something?
Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388

Member - MVPA #35153
Member - Red Bull Historic Military Vehicle Association
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cabinfever
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Post by cabinfever »

citabra wrote:I would love to see a picture!!
This is from the 4th of July parade:
Click ==> http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... pic&t=9071
Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388

Member - MVPA #35153
Member - Red Bull Historic Military Vehicle Association
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

You must remove the entire front drive shaft.

With Lo 4WD selected the front output on the transfer case will be turning and with the jeep moving the front axle and center pinion will also be rotating.

You can invest in a set of locking hubs or simply a pair of Clary hubs that essentially eliminate the use of the front axle as a driving axle.

Image

Image

Image

Image
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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cabinfever
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Post by cabinfever »

Thanks, Wes. I like the idea of the Clary drive flange better than locking hubs onaccounta I do not plan on ever driving my A1 where I would need 4WD (I hear the hissing from the members). Also, the Clary flange would maintain the "all original" look for my Jeep.

In your post you said that I must remove the entire driveshaft. I couldn't quite tell by looking at TM9-8015, but is the universal joint at the front of the shaft (at the pinion) also connected with U-bolts? (I'm not home now, so I can't go find out for myself)

Thanks
Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388

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Member - Red Bull Historic Military Vehicle Association
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Bretto
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Post by Bretto »

Both ends of the shaft attach to their yokes the same. Pull all 4 ubolts and the whole shaft assembly will come out. Just watch that you don't let the u-joint caps slip off.
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