Repro steering wheel

Reviews and Comments on M Series Vehicle Parts: NOS, Reproduction, etc.

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Hammer
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Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2014 6:00 pm

Repro steering wheel

Post by Hammer »

Hello gentlemen. I'm pretty new to this site but I can't underestimate how helpful all you guys are. So this is my first post because I didn't see a previous conversation about it. Steering wheels. I understand that john from mwm will get the raving reviews. But I'm trying to cut corners whenever possible on my budget. $&%, I'm lucky I've even made it this far on my 52 m38 with the finances I've had in the past few years! Accurate as possible but best value possible also. No offense. But it seems like the top quality suppliers have gotten together and set the price a bit. With only three to five dollars difference on various items and prices. It's pretty evident they are more or less working together. Peter and John and rick has some of the best repro stuff on the market. And we all agree on that. However is all the rest complete junk or is there a true competitor every once in a while. So back to steering wheels. There's one on eBay from a fellow in GA that says it a great repro just without sheller wrote on it. (Because of trademarks or something.). So how does john at mwm get away with it. And it looks too bright on screen. Is this a too good to be true and does anyone know this seller and his quality.
M38; m416; and cj 7 just for kicks.
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

You will need to post photos or links to photos that illustrate your points and contentions. Also you should post the link to the ebay item you are comparing too.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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Hammer
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Steering wheel pics?

Post by Hammer »

Have no idea how to post pics. Will try to figure it out later. Worked all night. Man is from rising fawn GA. Also has a double pulley us made water pump way cheaper than debella or mwm. But how good is quality. [/url]
M38; m416; and cj 7 just for kicks.
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RICKG
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Post by RICKG »

1. I have dealt with Matthew F. in Ga in the past with success.
2. I find it unsettling you would suggest John B, Ron F, Peter D
are conspiratorial in setting prices.

My 2C.
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Hammer,

Here's where you request a photo album:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... wforum&f=9

Here's how you learn to load photos to your album:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

Here's how you link photos to your post:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... pic&t=8670

And here are the rules:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... opic&t=498
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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BullRun
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Post by BullRun »

I have bought from all of these vendors over the years and they have all been fantastic.

Another option is to advertise in Army Motors or Supply Line for a used M38 Steering wheel... is there any difference from a CJ3A steering wheel except color?... and with some P.C. 7 epoxy putty, paint, sand paper and a lot of elbow grease repair it. Most people will never know the difference.

Even after all these years there are still probably more donor/junk jeeps out there than will ever get lucky enough to be restored.
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4x4M38
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Post by 4x4M38 »

I have an original Sellers (sic) steering wheel. It is in pretty poor shape. What finish there is is cracked, chalked, and mostly gone.
In addition, there are major cracks (some 1/4" plus deep, especially near the hub area, and some on the wheel itself.

I have seen repro wheels painted green, and I have seen NOS Sellers wheels for sale, as well as what is marketed as a repro Sellers wheel.

All would dip deeply into my build/repair fund.

This jeep will not be a contest quality frame off restoration. At least not at this point in time.

I have wire brushed the cracks and am currently filling with JB Weld, sanding and refilling to get the profile back. I know I'm there when I hit green.

Since the base of the wheel is all steel, the rest is purely cosmetic, and everyone's mileage will vary. I consider JB Weld to be Bondo with teeth, and it should do what I need it to. I'll prime with self-etching primer, then paint with AJP/Gillespie Late WWII Semi Gloss, then overcoat with satin spar urethane. It will wear eventually, but the finish should hold up reasonably well, and will be easy to recover somewhere down the road.

And I won't have a C-note in it.

Just my two cents.
Brian
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