initial setup

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 8:27 am

Does someone have a good end-on pic or maybe instructions for setting the angle of the banjo fitting in the master cylinder?

When I took mine off it was oriented at straight down and back towards the frame. I am replacing all of the steel lines as well and am sure they won't like being twisted to match the fitting.

Also, for an initial setting, should the pittman arm be 90 degrees to the steering shaft?

Thanks,
Brian

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 8:56 am

Sorry, getting ahead of my headlights. You don't tighten the banjo fitting until the lines are installed.

Setup of the Pittman arm still up in the air.

Tks,
Brian

Post by **wesk** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 9:19 am

Actually I think you missed an important step during your rebuild of the steering system. There should have been a match line scribed across the outer edge of the pitman arm and it's shaft so you would be able to get her back in the original position. Not having those match marks you have no choice but to wait until you have all the steering components and the steering gear installed. Adjust the tie rods all equally until the wheels are parallel to each other and straight ahead. Then with the bell crank and drag link installed and the steering gear worm centered install the pitman arm so that it mates up with the rear end of the drag link.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 10:24 am

Hi Wes,
No, I'm good. I am replacing and installing everything from
the tie rods to the drag link, inclusive.

I have not yet removed the steering box or Pittman arm
as it appears to be a complete rebuild that I'm not ready for yet.
But I have to have the steering in place to be able to roll her
to the shop.

But I see what you are getting at. Once the tie rods and drag link
are installed up front and the wheels straight the Pittman arm will
fall where it will.

Not having done some of this type of work before finds me
over thinking things at times.

Thanks.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Dec 14, 2014 11:14 am

When you are using the M38 manuals keep in mind that often the heavy detailed procedures will be in the 1804A or B but the minor details and installation notes will often be found in the 8012. Another point to keep in mind that the civvy manuals can be a great help as they often offer more detail to the reader. You should make sure you at least get a copy of SM-1002 on your shelf as well as a copy of the Ross Factory overhaul manual I have linked in the downloads section for that steering box.

Some of the chapters are already loaded in my photo album

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:37 pm

Hi Wes,
Yes I have downloaded the Ross manual.

I'm thinking of investing in one of Moses' CJ rebuild manuals. As you say, there is plenty of information in the military manuals, but I find myself digging through several for information on one item.

I don't relish rebuilding knuckles, and drifting through several manuals while deep in the process won't help.

Moses mentions being able to change the inner knuckle seals without complete removal if done right. I am concerned that I may have more serious damage than just seals. Anything I might look for up front or do you suggest just tearing into the things?

Thanks,
Brian

Post by **wesk** » Tue Dec 16, 2014 1:12 am

When you buy an old jeep and try to scratch her belly to keep her running you will usually get bit in the arse by the jeep. When a part of the jeep moans, tear into it one time and fix it right. This will always equate to more pleasurable driving time and less wrenching in the long run.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Tue Dec 16, 2014 10:28 am

Amen!