I have a 1951 M38. In the process of restoration and need counsel on the font and size of hood numbers, hood star, and other painted-on jeep designations? I am working to create stencils. Any easier methods? I have searched many photos but I am wondering if someone has this information?
Thank you!
Davy
M38 Hood Numbers
- Davy
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- 4x4M38
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Davy,
Welcome to the party!
We need photos! Request a photo page from Wes and he'll fix you up.
Go to the Search button above and when you get to the page type in hood numbers, or stencils, or markings, etc., and you will get lots of links to discussions in the past. Also, go to the Photo Gallery and Wes' pages and you will find a lot of information there as well. Be sure and go to the Downloads link at the left. There is a lot more information there as well including maintenance and operation manuals, parts, parts manuals, etc.
Take care.
Welcome to the party!
We need photos! Request a photo page from Wes and he'll fix you up.
Go to the Search button above and when you get to the page type in hood numbers, or stencils, or markings, etc., and you will get lots of links to discussions in the past. Also, go to the Photo Gallery and Wes' pages and you will find a lot of information there as well. Be sure and go to the Downloads link at the left. There is a lot more information there as well including maintenance and operation manuals, parts, parts manuals, etc.
Take care.
- Xamon
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- Location: South East Saskatchewan
There was a member here who made the stencils in correct sizes etc. at a very reasonable price but I will be danged if I can remember who.
Carievale Saskatchewan Canada
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- RICKG
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member "Beast" @Xamon wrote:There was a member here who made the stencils in correct sizes etc. at a very reasonable price but I will be danged if I can remember who.
http://www.deltateamdecals.com/
Talk to Dave, he'll fix you up.
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
- Xamon
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That is the one. Thanks Rick.
Carievale Saskatchewan Canada
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- Davy
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- RICKG
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- Beast
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Thanks everybody. Yep, just let me know what you are looking for and I can get you taken care of. I offer markings in either decal kits or in paint mask kits. My website is http://www.deltateamdecals.com
Dave
53' M38a1, 53' M37, 67' M715, 67' M725, 67' M35a2
http://www.davidallenracing.com/motorpool.htm
Delta Team Decals http://www.deltateamdecals.com/
53' M38a1, 53' M37, 67' M715, 67' M725, 67' M35a2
http://www.davidallenracing.com/motorpool.htm
Delta Team Decals http://www.deltateamdecals.com/
- 4x4M38
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I would use paint stencils unless you only plan on showing your jeep in the outdoors on nice days, and even then every now and then.
In restoring full size steam locomotives as well as building 1-1/2" trains, I have found that paint stencils are much easier to repair down the road. Just a little paint on a touch up brush and you are good. Plus, the paint on the numbers will weather at the same rate as the body paint. The vinyl stick on's will weather at a significantly different rate and have a very different effect.
Until a few decades ago all lettering and numbering in the railroad industry was done with stencils, and stencil brushes. A stencil brush has fairly short bristles and is intended to be used almost at a 90 degree to the surface, tapping downwards. As the website shows, albeit spraying on the lettering (which can also be applied with a stencil brush) paint, light, and several coats are desired, to keep the edges sharp and prevent bleeding under.
Here volunteers are re-lettering Santa Fe 2-10-2 #940 in Bartlesville, OKlahoma:

http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gall ... mber_3.jpg
Believe it or not, the stencils were made with a pantograph enlarging proper historical lettering that was copied from an 8-1/2" x 11" page. The 24" numbers on the tender side were made at the local Staples from a file on a data stick and having them print it off. The pantograph was found on Ebay.
Historical photographs show shop forces lettering many steam locomotives in this manner. Note the prototypical chalk line on the tender that helped to align the stencils.
Take care.
In restoring full size steam locomotives as well as building 1-1/2" trains, I have found that paint stencils are much easier to repair down the road. Just a little paint on a touch up brush and you are good. Plus, the paint on the numbers will weather at the same rate as the body paint. The vinyl stick on's will weather at a significantly different rate and have a very different effect.
Until a few decades ago all lettering and numbering in the railroad industry was done with stencils, and stencil brushes. A stencil brush has fairly short bristles and is intended to be used almost at a 90 degree to the surface, tapping downwards. As the website shows, albeit spraying on the lettering (which can also be applied with a stencil brush) paint, light, and several coats are desired, to keep the edges sharp and prevent bleeding under.
Here volunteers are re-lettering Santa Fe 2-10-2 #940 in Bartlesville, OKlahoma:
http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gall ... mber_3.jpg
Believe it or not, the stencils were made with a pantograph enlarging proper historical lettering that was copied from an 8-1/2" x 11" page. The 24" numbers on the tender side were made at the local Staples from a file on a data stick and having them print it off. The pantograph was found on Ebay.
Historical photographs show shop forces lettering many steam locomotives in this manner. Note the prototypical chalk line on the tender that helped to align the stencils.
Take care.
