whats the easey way to remove a flywheel from a l-head
thanks bob
flywheel removel
- bobatwarsaw
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- bobatwarsaw
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hillbilly21
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Re: flywheel removel
MORE THAN LIKELY STUCK ON THE DOWEL PINS..TAKE A COUPLE PRY BARS ON THE 9 & 3 OCLOCK SPOT AND WORK IT FREE...bobatwarsaw wrote:whats the easey way to remove a flywheel from a l-head
thanks bob
DIZZY CAN TAKE A TAD-BIT MORE USE SOME PENETRATING OIL LET IT SET IF POSSIBLE MIGHT NEED A CHAIN WRENCH TO TURN IT THEN YOU GET TO BUY ANOTHER IT WILL DESTROY IT..TRY SOME HEAT IF NEED BE...
- 4x4M38
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- wesk
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You can usually knock all the flywheel to crank bolts loose with a brass drift including the two tapered or straight dowel bolts (whichever you have) then whack the edge of the plate and she'll jump off.
The distributor problem is caused by the idiot in the past that slipped an aluminum bodied distributor in a cast iron hole without any anti-seize. Remove both the plate to block bolt and the plate to distributor bolt. Saturate with PB Blaster or Mouse Milk and let set for 2 or three days then try twisting the distributor body. You will usually make very slight gains each 2 day soak and by the week's end you should be able to rotate quite a bit. If it still seems hopeless warm up the cast iron with a torch (any kind). Then hit the distributor housing with a blast from a CO2 extinguisher or dry ice and turn lift quickly.
Once you have it out try to remember the rule, dis-similar metals need a parting agent on assembly!
The distributor problem is caused by the idiot in the past that slipped an aluminum bodied distributor in a cast iron hole without any anti-seize. Remove both the plate to block bolt and the plate to distributor bolt. Saturate with PB Blaster or Mouse Milk and let set for 2 or three days then try twisting the distributor body. You will usually make very slight gains each 2 day soak and by the week's end you should be able to rotate quite a bit. If it still seems hopeless warm up the cast iron with a torch (any kind). Then hit the distributor housing with a blast from a CO2 extinguisher or dry ice and turn lift quickly.
Once you have it out try to remember the rule, dis-similar metals need a parting agent on assembly!
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- Bretto
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- bobatwarsaw
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- 4x4M38
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AAHUNT
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- RICKG
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Note to self: next scheduled maint be sure to pull the dist and apply anti-seize lest you be the "idiot".wesk wrote:The distributor problem is caused by the idiot in the past that slipped an aluminum bodied distributor in a cast iron hole without any anti-seize.
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a

