electrical

sgtkish · Post by **sgtkish** » Thu Nov 26, 2015 11:19 pm

I'm not sure if I'm doing this right since I'm new to the sight, so bear with me. I'm making the wiring harness on my 1952 m38a1 ,and I'm at the point where I need to make a harness from the regulator to my harness. Since it seems impossible to just find that cable for sale on line, I have no choice but to take the old plug I have and try to make one. Does anyone have any Intel on a diagram of what goes where from that particular plug? What wires go into the plug, from where and what pins to attach those wires to. Without burning my jeep to the ground of course...lol. I just dont want to buy the whole kit for 900 just for one plug. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.

Post by **wesk** » Thu Nov 26, 2015 11:48 pm

The answers are in 3 different manuals.

TM 9-8014 Operator's Manual for wiring diagrams.
TM 9-1825B Autolite component manual (Nov 52 edition) For pinouts
TM 9-1825E Electrical Equipment Bendix-Scintilla (Aug 52 edition) For rebuilding those plugs.

Also TM 9-8627 Delco Electrical Component repair (Jun 53 edition) For Delco pinouts

All or the applicable sections of each are on our downloads page.

Also you will find many photos of the technical issues you are working in my photo album.
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

here's a few examples:

oilleaker1 · Post by **oilleaker1** » Fri Nov 27, 2015 8:29 am

Google Surplus Army Warehouse. Then M38/M38A1, M series cable, 12.95 new!!!!!!!!! It's longer, but the price is fantastic! John

aforests · Post by **aforests** » Fri Nov 27, 2015 9:50 am

Can someone post a picture of the cable that goes from the regulator to the firewall? Would be interested in seeing the different ends away from the regulator.

Post by **wesk** » Fri Nov 27, 2015 11:58 am

Here you can see the shortest wire (#4) leaves the bundle and attaches to the + terminal on the starter. You can also see that the ignition wire (#12) also exits from under the taped in harness. It is not connected to the regulator plug. It is just piggy backing a ride inside the harness tape.

Here you can see the harness and note that 3 other wires are taped inside the harness. This is the medium view from my M38A1 electrical album.

You should make it a practice to go to my album to find technical photos rather then ask the members to find one.

My Album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

It is the second album on the first page of member's albums.

sgtkish · Post by **sgtkish** » Fri Nov 27, 2015 3:05 pm

wesk wrote:The answers are in 3 different manuals.

TM 9-8014 Operator's Manual for wiring diagrams.
TM 9-1825B Autolite component manual (Nov 52 edition) For pinouts
TM 9-1825E Electrical Equipment Bendix-Scintilla (Aug 52 edition) For rebuilding those plugs.

Also TM 9-8627 Delco Electrical Component repair (Jun 53 edition) For Delco pinouts

All or the applicable sections of each are on our downloads page.

Thank you ,exactly what I was looking for.

Also you will find many photos of the technical issues you are working in my photo album.
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

here's a few examples:

Post by **wesk** » Fri Nov 27, 2015 8:29 pm

Here's the M38 Harnesses. They are very similar to the A1 harness except for some lengths and the oil press wire does not tie into it.

sgtkish · Post by **sgtkish** » Fri Nov 27, 2015 10:23 pm

wesk wrote:Here's the M38 Harnesses. They are very similar to the A1 harness except for some lengths and the oil press wire does not tie into it.

_-------------------------_
Does anyone have an idea where I can find this cable ? Its seems to be one of those allusive parts .

Post by **wesk** » Fri Nov 27, 2015 11:07 pm

John,

Google Surplus Army Warehouse. Then M38/M38A1, M series cable, 12.95 new!!!!!!!!! It's longer, but the price is fantastic! John

http://www.armysurpluswarehouse.com/mil ... cable.html

That's the wrong cable assy. That is the two wire cable from the generator to the regulator. He is looking for the harness assembly that runs from the regulator to the firewall.

Post by **wesk** » Fri Nov 27, 2015 11:09 pm

Kish,

Have you looked up the part number in your ORD 9 and googled it yet? It's on page 179 of your M38A1 ORD 9 SNL G-758.

sgtkish · Post by **sgtkish** » Fri Nov 27, 2015 11:49 pm

wesk wrote:Kish,

Have you looked up the part number in your ORD 9 and googled it yet? It's on page 179 of your M38A1 ORD 9 SNL G-758.

Yes sir, googled it for a couple weeks now. Almost had one on eBay but missed the auction by a few min. As for part numbers and a way to find it from an nsn #, well that's route I haven't mastered yet. I will have to try and figure out how to manage that way. Thanks

sgtkish · Post by **sgtkish** » Fri Nov 27, 2015 11:56 pm

sgtkish wrote:
wesk wrote:Kish,

Have you looked up the part number in your ORD 9 and googled it yet? It's on page 179 of your M38A1 ORD 9 SNL G-758.

Yes sir, googled it for a couple weeks now. Almost had one on eBay but missed the auction by a few min. As for part numbers and a way to find it from an nsn #, well that's route I haven't mastered yet. I will have to try and figure out how to manage that way. Thanks

I have a few m37's I'm working on as well and I tried pulling one of the cables from them, but they don't look the same. The m37 cable I got only has 2 wires coming out of the back of the plug, and they are cut off. Its in bad shape, but I was going to use the plug and make one for the m38a1.That's why I was asking for specifics on the data for where everything goes..lol. so worst case I will take the Intel you guys gave me and make one from the m37 if I can't find one.

Post by **wesk** » Sat Nov 28, 2015 2:09 am

As long as the plug is the same 4 pin plug you'll not have any problems if you just follow the photos I posted above. I googled the part number and found 2 dealers selling the cable for about $150 at one and a POR at the other. The final illustrations I posted include M38 wire lengths and should be very close to your M38A1 lengths.

The early M37 had the same regulator & generator as the M38A1. The M37B may have had the transistorized voltage regulator which did not use wires # 8 & # 9.

I updated my early M37 (1954) with a 60 amp military alternator which has a built in regulator.

sgtkish · Post by **sgtkish** » Sat Nov 28, 2015 5:18 pm

wesk wrote:As long as the plug is the same 4 pin plug you'll not have any problems if you just follow the photos I posted above. I googled the part number and found 2 dealers selling the cable for about $150 at one and a POR at the other. The final illustrations I posted include M38 wire lengths and should be very close to your M38A1 lengths.

The early M37 had the same regulator & generator as the M38A1. The M37B may have had the transistorized voltage regulator which did not use wires # 8 & # 9.

I updated my early M37 (1954) with a 60 amp military alternator which has a built in regulator.

Now that I think about it I was going to use the regulator from that m37 I got tht plug from because my other regulator had burn marks on the inside of it. So I figured it was fried, and switching them out would be easier. So that's great, looks like that may not work either. I did hunt down the part number and googled the exact results you got. So thank you for that again. I was playing with the idea of getting a 60amp mil 24v alternator, but I thought you still needed the regulator. There was a cheap cable on eBay to connect the 60amp the the regulator. So of course iI bought it just in case . So its either the alternator or buy the 150 cable and rebuild the regulator and hope it works.

Post by **wesk** » Sat Nov 28, 2015 9:46 pm

The problem with the 60 Amp GI Alternator is it's current price. $300 and up.

If your M37 had the transistorized regulator that doesn't use wire's 8 & 9 you can still use it. You must switch the amp meter out for a voltmeter and just do not use the 8 & 9 wires.

Autolite 28V 25 A mechanical regulator

Delco-Remy 28V 25 A mechanical regulator

Transistorized 28V 25 A regulator

The plug ends are the same on all three. Up behind the dash wires 8 & 9 connected to the amp meter on the two mechanical regulators. When you used the transistorized regulator you just taped the ends of wires 8 & 9 over and replaced the amp meter with a volt meter and connected the plus side of the volt meter to the wire #27 spider harness.