F134 quiestions

Saberr · Post by **Saberr** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 6:19 pm

Tearing engine down for a shake a bake, plus mag. Gotten most of it apart. The left oil passage block, on the Oil pump side of the block (Not the one the throttle spring hooks to) is stuck. I have tried pb, and heat. The wrenches have started to round the head a bit. I stopped once i saw the rounding starting. I am completely stumped, how do you remove one of these seized up plugs ?

Another issue is when i took my head off and looked inside the water jacket, i saw and felt a piece of metal in there. It is right in the middle of the head's jacket. It runs about two piston length, and is rounded on the ends. It looks like a metal strap that was in there and corroded off. Any ideas as to what it is ? should i be worried, or ehh, Doesn't seem to impede flow, but it is loos in there, but too big to block any passages. Tried removing it, but too hard and long to bend to get out.

Last but not least a broken drill bit question. Took my water pump off, and saw one of the bolts had been broken off in the block (been there a while i see). So tried to drill and easy out it, broke easy out in stud, then i drilled the easy out and a bit of the stud. WellL the drill bit broke off in the stud, any ideas how to get hardened drill bit out ? I had heard a rotozip carbon blade would grind/drill it out, the ones used for tile. Any ideas there ?

OKCM38CDN · Post by **OKCM38CDN** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 7:31 pm

I broke a tap off in one of the Axle holes for the differential cover, I asked a machinist what to do to get the tap out. His answer was a carbide Dremel tool bit, at a low speed cut the tap out slowly. He said was only way unless I wanted to bring the axle to him... it is mounted and would be a big pain in the butt to go this route.

So maybe try this...

charlesfitton · Post by **charlesfitton** » Tue Jul 12, 2016 6:36 am

The wire in the water jacket is probably part of the core reinforcement. It stays in the engine when the casting process is finished and the core sand is broken out.

Haven't seen one in a F134 though. Take it out and send us a picture.

Derstrom · Post by **Derstrom** » Thu Jul 14, 2016 9:29 pm

I've been through all the methods of removing a broken bolt or stud, especially from a block. Easy/outs, taps, pliers, etc. Etc. Etc. There is one way that works every time. So once you've tried everything else.....
Find a nut thats slightly bigger than the bolt or plug that's stuck. Hold it over top of the bolt so you can see the bolt thru the nut. Weld the inside of the nut to the bolt. If it's broken so it's hard to reach just build up the weld a bit more. Low heat, and don't go crazy with the welding.

This process does a few things. It heats up the rust that is holding the bolt. It heat/cycles the bolt and It'll likely break the bolt loose. And lastly it gives you a nice big brand new nut for your socket wrench. Works everytime.

keats · Post by **keats** » Fri Jul 15, 2016 3:54 pm

http://www.quikcenter.com

The fastest, easiest, and most successful extractor tool I have ever used!

Saberr · Post by **Saberr** » Fri Jul 15, 2016 9:18 pm

THx for the input, but i have to remove a hardened steel drill bit that is broken off inside the bolt, it's not near the top.

keats · Post by **keats** » Sat Jul 16, 2016 12:31 pm

the quick center tools work on bolts below the surface. I had a hub bolt broken off about an inch below the surface nd the tool worked flawlessly

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Sat Jul 16, 2016 2:29 pm

Is it possible to beat the drill bit with a very small torch tip then
allow to cool slowly? Will that take the temper out of the bit and
allow drilling out?

F134 quiestions

F134 quiestions

Broken bolt / stud removal