M38 and CJ3A Bodies

Jack · Post by **Jack** » Mon Jan 08, 2007 8:34 am

Are there any major problems with putting an M38 body on a CJ3A frame (other than creating a fake)? Will the mounting holes, etc. line up?
Thanks.
Jack

Post by **wesk** » Mon Jan 08, 2007 11:18 am

Not any more a fake then putting a M38 repop tub on an M38 chassis.

They should switch ok. Where did you find a good M38 tub at?

It wouldn't be that difficult to make the 3A frame look exactly like a M38 frame before you install the tub.

Do you wish to have a CJ3A or M38?

How much of your parts are which model?

Jack · Post by **Jack** » Mon Jan 08, 2007 3:42 pm

Right now I have a CJ3A which I've disassembled down to the bare chassis for sand blasting, painting etc. I have new brake shoes, lines, wheel cylinders, master cylinder etc. for this model and have purchased the springs, shackles, U-bolts and a few other parts for the CJ3a.

The body was a total loss though and all I have left is the windshield (which is marginal), the grill and a tailgate with a spare tire carrier welded on it. So with the motor, transmission, and differentials I have the makings of a CJ3A. Oh, I also have an M38 top and bows.

I have yet to see another CJ3 for sale for parts with a descent body and only recently heard of a M38 body that needs a fair amount of work but could probably be brought back to use for less than a repli-body would cost.

So before I started negotiating for this body I though I'd better find out if I could use it.

I thought the two models were pretty much the same from the frame up except for the electrical system and the water proofed parts.

Hence, my question about the interchangeablity of the bodies.

Jack

Post by **wesk** » Mon Jan 08, 2007 9:04 pm

There's a long list of differences.

Frame is boxed more on the M38.

Pedal support is bolted on the M38 and riveted on the 3A.

Dash has a battery box between it and the firewall leaving no space for a civvy heater on the M38.

M38 Dash has a removable center instrument panel while the 3A is fixed.

M38 hand brake is on the left edge of the dash and the 3A is in the middle.

M38 has a huge gas tank and filler tube is huge compared to smallish 3A.

M38 military tail lamps fit in cut outs while 3A surface mounts.

M38 grill mounts on hunge plates on the front frame rails and 3A mounts to crossmember.

The seats are different.

Jack · Post by **Jack** » Tue Jan 09, 2007 9:22 am

I appreciate the detailed info on the differences between the M38 and CJ3A.

From what you say, it sounds like the body swap would work.

Couldn't CJ3 instruments be fitted into the M38 dash removable center instrument panel?

If I got the cable and handle for M38 hand brake shouldn't it work on my emergency brake?

How about just using my gas tank and seats? Wouldn't that work?

I know the voltage is different on the M38 but I'm sure there must be a way to fit 6 volt tail lamps in the cut outs of the M38 body.

I don't think I'd have to change my grill either, right?

Jack

Post by **wesk** » Tue Jan 09, 2007 10:07 pm

Yes it can all be cobbled together and made to work. If I assume you are not interested in a restoration and accuracy, originality or resale value then we can make a lot of things work.

I am trying to understand the arithmatic involved in putting a very restorable M38 tub on a rough CJ3A for an around the ranch jeep when the M38 tub in any type of restorable condition is worth a lot more to a M38 restorer. You could sell the M38 tub to a M38 guy for enough money to darn near buy a new repop CJ3A tub.

Couldn't CJ3 instruments be fitted into the M38 dash removable center instrument panel?

Yes

If I got the cable and handle for M38 hand brake shouldn't it work on my emergency brake?

Yes

How about just using my gas tank and seats? Wouldn't that work?

Yes, you'll have to drill some new holes and the seal up the open space around the filler neck.

I know the voltage is different on the M38 but I'm sure there must be a way to fit 6 volt tail lamps in the cut outs of the M38 body.

Yes, just drill the appropriate holes.

I don't think I'd have to change my grill either, right?

Your grill will work.

Jack · Post by **Jack** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 7:10 am

I'm hoping to have anything but a "rough" CJ3A since this is a frame up rebuild. But since I don't have a body and I'm not too worried about detailed authenticity I just thought I'd asked about using the M38 one.

I wasn't aware that they were so rare until I tried to negotiate with the owner of the one I found. It's in rough but restorable condition but sky high in price. Now I know why.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions and open my eyes. I guess I'll just keep looking for a CJ3 body or parts vehicle within a descent traveling distance of South Carolina.

Jack

Post by **wesk** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 9:23 am

Make sure you contact your local jeep clubs and MV clubs. These are the folks that will know where most of the stuff is hiding.

This ad was on the Willys Tech Board

6a.
CJ2a parts for sale
Posted by: "Tom Ewing" tewing49@yahoo.com tewing49
Wed Jan 10, 2007 2:04 am (PST)
Hello to all

This is my first post I have been a lurker for a while. I have 2
CJ2a's that I am going to be parting out. Bodies ar pretty much gone
but should be some good drive train parts (I think). Hate parting
with them but just to much stuff to store and not near enough space.
If anyone is looking for drive train parts and live anywhere close to
NW Alabama. Let me know what you need. Am not looking for big bucks
just a home for the parts before I have to sell the scrap metal. Just
hate sending transfer case or trannys to the scrap yard.

Tom

Galen · Post by **Galen** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:15 pm

Wes, what's a good M38 tub worth these days. When I say good, I mean NO rust & only minor dents or dings (& the battery box that has been removed, i.e., spot welds drilled out). Just curious as to the value of the M38 tub on my 2A chasis.

Jack · Post by **Jack** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 4:54 pm

How were you able to put an M38 body on a CJ2 frame/chassis? Thought the M38 body was a few inches longer.

Conversly, can a CJ2A body be put on a CJ3A chassis?

It sure would make my search for a body easier.

Jack

Galen · Post by **Galen** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 5:48 pm

It fit just fine . . . . frames for the 2A & 3A are the same dimensions, & the M38 is modeled on the 3A chasis, so all 3 tubs will fit on the same frame. The M38A1 body is longer & will not fit readily to a 2A/3a frame. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding of the only significant differences between the 2A & 3A are the dimensions of the wheel wells; they are shorter on the 3A in order to add some room between the steering wheel & driver's seat position.

There's a pic of it in the gallery, go to page 2 & look under "Galen".

[/img]http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/4986 ... 45.jpg[img]

I can post more pictures of it during the buildup if you need them for reference.

Galen[/img]

Post by **wesk** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:33 pm

Galen,
Hard to nail down. As a rule used is half of new. But in the case of quality antique hard to find original tub I'd estimate closer to 3/4's of new. If you don't have the cowl battery box knock off $200.

Yes the flat fender tubs can easily be swapped around. There are only a few minor issues with the MB tub and the 3A has the set back rear wheelhouses for a seat that goes further back. You can also use the DJ3A and CJ3B tubs/chassis for swaps.

The above are all 80" wheelbase units. The CJ5 can be done but since it's an 81" wheelbase you end up with uncentered wheel.

Try this web site for pricing
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Parts-Tops-and- ... 12277.aspx

M38 Steel Body Tub only
Part #: 12277
M38 Steel Body Tub only Larger View
Only $1,999.95 Qty.
Add To Wish List
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Body kits, body tubs and body parts are sold "as is". Drilling, cutting and other modifications may be required for proper installation. Claims for freight damages must be placed directly with freight carriers. All Bodies are shipped by truck freight for $250.00.