King pins

Bobber · Post by **Bobber** » Sun Feb 19, 2017 8:22 pm

I put king pins in last year. I used a digital fish scale to get my 12 to 14 pounds, and 35 thousands of shims. I'm not sure what caused the bearing to get smashed unless it was the fish scale not being the same as a spring scale, thus causing me to not use the proper amount of shims. I did fallow the manual when I put them in. I couldn't get the right poundage with .048 starting point of shims and went down to .035. Not sure what would cause them to get that way. Don't have any 4x4 front end experience.
thoughts? This is the worst of the two, this one is the top bearing. Bearing caps torqued to 45 pounds. Thank you.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Sun Feb 19, 2017 8:56 pm

Dayam Rusty!

Hope you get an answer so I don't do that.

Bobber · Post by **Bobber** » Sun Feb 19, 2017 9:39 pm

I was pretty surprised when I saw this, and no indication in steering or normal operation either.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Feb 19, 2017 10:56 pm

Can you describe the condition of all 4 bearings being specific on which bearing you are describing?

Did you have measurable vertical play between the outer knuckle and the axle housing ball end before you disassembled the pivot bearings?

Did you install new races to the correct depth?

Harold brings up a very good point on bolt lengths below.!!!!

45auto · Post by **45auto** » Mon Feb 20, 2017 9:12 am

As you are checking everything Wes has pointed out, also check the length of the cap bolts and where you are using them.

I had bearings that look like this when going through the front end after the P.O. had been into the front end. If you have the original cap bolts for the king pins, the bolts that go through the brake hose guard are longer than the others. If you switch them around, the longer bolts will make contact with the bearing cage. At a casual glance, they look the same.

If you have replace the bolts, they are too long or if you are converting to larger brakes and leaving the guard off, those bolts used with the guard are now too long. You will need to find the correct length bolts or use flat washers under the heads to keep them from making contact with the bearing cage.

The parts manual should give you the proper length for the bolts you need.

Bobber · Post by **Bobber** » Mon Feb 20, 2017 1:35 pm

More than likely that is what it is. I know I didn't take care in which bolts I put in. When I took it apart the bearings were pitted really bad, but didn't look like this. I was thinking that maybe they gave me the wrong size bearing causing me to smash the bearing cap into the bearing it self. But what you say makes way more sense. I will check the bolts when I get home.

I didn't notice any play from top to bottom. I also haven't opened the other side up yet. I plan to replace all affected parts for sure.

Thank You so much. Sometimes I over think the issue and make up new problems

Post by **wesk** » Mon Feb 20, 2017 1:46 pm

My questions about fit and bearing condition were addressed at this current disassembly.

If your long bolts did that damage then be sure to replace the races as well.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Mon Feb 20, 2017 2:48 pm

Wow guys,
I'm a ways from tackling my kingpins so haven't gone over the manuals
in serious detail yet, but I have read through them lightly.

I appreciate the heads-up and feel for Rusty but his experience serves to
teach many of us just another quirky little detail about these little vehicles.

Thank you!

Bobber · Post by **Bobber** » Mon Feb 20, 2017 3:33 pm

I'll report back to everyone on what I find when I get to the passenger side. This time I'll be sure to look at bolt length when removing them, just to see what I find.
Thank you.

Bobber · Post by **Bobber** » Mon Feb 20, 2017 8:33 pm

Yep! As was said there are long bolts and short bolts, all the same on the bottom. I'll be ordering new bearing and races. I never would have thought about the difference in bolts lengths. Spendy lesson, better sooner than later though.
Thanks Gentlemen.