Pressure plate/flywheel bolts

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4x4M38
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Pressure plate/flywheel bolts

Post by 4x4M38 »

Has anyone had any luck in sourcing locally the proper
5/16 NC x 1-1/16" hex head bolts for the pressure
plate to flywheel?

I've seen the posts about using all thread shank
vs the correct ones with the space with no threads
just below the head. I can find the former all day.
The local auto parts folks can't find it unless it's
listed for a particular vehicle, though I know
somewhere in the musty back of al three places
are the right bolts.

I hate this. Used to be you went to the parts house
and there was a 67 Dart with a 440 in it with numbers
painted in white shoe polish on the window.

It belonged to the kid behind the counter.

Today the kid behind the counter asked me who
the Willys was made by I was working on.

:roll:

I know I can order them but is it impossible to find
them locally?
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4x4M38
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Post by 4x4M38 »

This is nuts.

If I order them from the usual suspects I end up
paying 18-20 bucks shipping, because no matter
how high in esteem I hold those folks none seem
to have mastered the flat envelope or package
shipping function.

Autozone has Ford bolts, 5/16-18 x 1"
versus
5/16-18 x 1-1/16 for the OEM.

Am I better off putting in a new bolt 1/16" shorter
or the correct length old takeouts?
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45auto
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Post by 45auto »

They are not overly hard to find--the hard part is finding bolts that are 1 1/16 inch long. Those you find will be 1 inch long. Most over-the-counter bolts increase in 1/4 inch lengths---1/4, 1/2, 3/4.

Ask for Mr. Gasket brand pressure plate bolts in 5/16. Most auto parts stores will have 6 of them in a blister pack--1 inch long but will have the unthread shank next to the head.

Dorman, has some and for more money, ARP has them.

On eBay, there is a set listed for a ford....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mr-Gasket-911-P ... B7&vxp=mtr

I was able to buy pressure plate bolts surplus for a M151 that was the correct length.

If you want to try and turn up some local--take a bolt with you and ask for 5/16 pressure plate bolts and see how close they match.

Let us know how you make out!
Harold W.
MVPA #6833
1945 GPW
1950 CJV-35/U
1951 M38 1952 M38
1962 USMC Contract M38A1
1953 Strick M100 1967 Johnson M416
1968 CJ5 4-Speed 1969 CJ5 V6
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Post by 4x4M38 »

Harold,
Thanks for the reply. Yes I found the Mr. Gasket 1" Ford bolts.

Can I use the 1" bolts?

Is that better than the cleaned up originals?

Thanks,
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45auto
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Post by 45auto »

If the originals are in good shape--not bent, have hack marks from being lose or have bad threads, I would think they would be good to go. Most of the pressure is from turning / shearing type of torque.

With the correct shank length (unthreaded part), you go from lose, to tight when the threads meet the shank. You do not stretch the bolt pre-say, they are tight when they bottom out on the shank.The shank keeps the pressure plate from slipping back and forth--which would eventually shear off the bolts. You would also want to use a small amount of blue lock-tite on the bolts to ensure they do not work lose.

I have re-used original pressure plate bolts without a problem, I needed some only when I didn't have them to start with or the hex was rounded off.

As far as the Ford pressure plate bolts, I wouldn't think a 1/16 inch would be a problem--what you do want is for the shank to be the same length.

Can you post a picture of the original pressure plate bolts?
Harold W.
MVPA #6833
1945 GPW
1950 CJV-35/U
1951 M38 1952 M38
1962 USMC Contract M38A1
1953 Strick M100 1967 Johnson M416
1968 CJ5 4-Speed 1969 CJ5 V6
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Post by OKCM38CDN »

I may have screwed up here, but I went to the local Hardware store and bought Grade 8 1 1/4" bolts with the shoulder on them... they fit fine and so far seem to be doing ok... I have not actually started the motor yet. but will see what happens.

If I have messed up let me know... it is not too late to change them...

Hope this helps...
Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK
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Post by 4x4M38 »

Good morning Harold,
Below is a photo of the takeouts after a swim in mineral spirits, a general wire brushing, and dusting off the flats on my belt sander.

Image

http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gall ... /bolts.jpg
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Show us the head markings.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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Post by 4x4M38 »

Hi Wes,
They either have A or BC.

Nothing else.
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Post by wesk »

Then they are a mix from several sources? No line marks at all? Again a photo is worth a 1000 words!
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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Post by 4x4M38 »

Hi Wes,
Yes. Just the letters. No lines indicating grade.

Traveling right now. Cant get a pic.

Not surprised about the lineage. This whole jeep is a mutt.
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mbullism
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Post by mbullism »

"A" is most likely ASTM A307 Grade A, typical mild steel hardware store bolt... these are typically unmarked, but not always

"BC" is probably ASTM A354 Grade BC, think "better" than SAE J429 grade 5 (three lines) but short of Grade 8 (six lines)
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Post by 4x4M38 »

Ok,
I threw in the towel trying to find some Mr Gasket bolts
to compare. Looking for something else I took a chance
and found them at our G503 host, RJ Fitzpatrick.

Hate to lose a few more days but it just didn't make sense
to put almost all new gear from the flywheel to the rear
Ujoint and bolt it all together with old, non-grade bolts.

Thanks for all the help!
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