I bought a used HF 20ton press to do a few ‘easy’ things with the M38. My clean & painted differentials/axles have been sitting in the living quarters of the barn along with all the rebuild parts.
All the origional shim packs were saved and the carrier retaining caps were marked for proper reassembly. Every step of disassembly was photographed.
I watched past videos on reassembly and chickened out... but after seeing this part of your posts, have decided to give it a go.
As I review your work... here is what I am thinking.
My first concern is the probable need to assemble/measure/reassemble the pinion several times to properly set rotational torque.
* Can I remove the splines from an old yolk and use it to expedite pinion adjustment for both differentials? I have bought new replacement yolks.
* Does the de-splined yolk need to be torqued to 250 ftlbs during each attempt to set rotational torque ? or only on the last fitting?
* No oil seal used during RT adjustment (right)?
* Will I need to buy another set of new bearings that will be sacrificed for each step of the task?
* One rebuilder on YT uses a pneumatic impact tool to disassemble the pinion for shim changes rather than using dummy bearings. Would that work?
* My parts supplier (who also rebuilds) gave me Timken races and Koyo bearings with the assurance the combo has worked fine for him. Isthat OK?
Pinion Depth .... The YT rebuilder mentioned above just assumes that if the pinion / carrier have not been changed or damaged .... you can use the same pinion depth shims (or replacements of the same stack thickness) without the need to check pinion depth ..... any problems would show up in the final tooth pattern test.
Darn .... my head is spinning and we are only in the pinion.
