Frame Color

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rdsar2k
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Frame Color

Post by rdsar2k »

I have my 1955 M170 stripped to the frame then I pressure washed it. the original frame color is black. the axle were either black or green and the transmission and transfer were a medium blue flint color.
I'm thinking that I should re-paint the frame black, green axles, green engine - transmission and transfer. I cant tell on the springs but was thinking on stripping to metal and treating with OSPRO which will turn them black and is more like a metal blueing than a paint.
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Frames came to the assembly line in black. As did the axles. They got their final coat at Willys during assembly. The bluish tranny/transfer were probably overhauled units.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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rdsar2k
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I'm luvvin this place

Post by rdsar2k »

What a wealth of info I get here. Thanks Wesk. What about springs? should they be painted or treated in some way?
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

You don't want paint between each leaf. So if you must paint them it will have to be after they are assembled into a complete stack. I can't think of anything around the shop you can use to coat the leafs with with a permanent coating. I'd spray a little graphite on each leaf, then assemble and then wipe sides, top and bottom clean with some thinner and paint them black.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
ocwd
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Springs

Post by ocwd »

Wes,

What's the problem with getting paint between the springs? I was thinking of having my springs sand blasted with the rest of my frame. So if I can't paint between the springs, than the area between will be left as bare metal, correct? What about overspray of primer and paint, is that a problem?

Dave
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

For leaf springs to function correctly they must be free to move against each other. They must be slippery. If you paint them they tend to stick together contributing to a harsher ride.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
ocwd
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Frame

Post by ocwd »

How can the ride get any worse!? :wink:
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keats
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Post by keats »

If your M170 has the proper suspension and stabilizers all in good working order the ride will surprise you!! The M170 is one of the softest riding stock jeeps you'll find.
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rdsar2k
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Post by rdsar2k »

It does have the stock sway bars and leaf springs. I notice that it was quite squishy when I was pulling parts off. The dual sway bars kinda threw me for a loop. I also noticed in specs that the turning radius is much tighter than a M38a1. I must say that this is turning out to be real enjoyable in restoring. The parts are easy to find (except that stinking upper rack) and on this jeep, all the parts are still original and in fairly good shape so it's a disassemble, clean repair/replace re-assemble job.

The Triumph TR-3 I previously attempted was a nightmere to find parts and lots of missing or modified pieces that were very delicate to work on. Way more rust on pieces that were under pieces (like rocker panels under rocker panels that are all spotwelded together). Less mechanical than the bulldozer (JD 450C) which was a heavy machine to dissassemble to work on though easy on body work!

This thing is a front clip and a tub - no trunk, trunk hood, doors, trim, interior, floor or electrical fused system. The waterproofing stuff is the wierdest but not difficult or hard to find. I think I like this hobby!
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