Leak Free Jeep ... Is It Possible?

[Ryan_Miller]

Hey,

After being gone for over a year, I pull the tarp back off the running gear and found 3 small, very slow drip leaks.

1. front axle cover plate
2. transfer case bottom oil pan
3. left front steering knuckle - one bolt on the bottow flange

I used hytak on the gaskets (transfer case and front axle cover) and used a lot of that never hardening thread sealant Wes reccomends on the Knuckle flange bolts.

I am wondering if I should use an extra thick gasket or resort to the silicone along with a new gasket or what?

I am begining to think this may be a wild goose chase.

[wesk]

The leak proof jeep is unobtainable. You may get one to not leave spots on the floor but there will always be one or two seeps that show a wetness at the leak point.

The threaded fastener leak usually means not enough #1 Permatex or the threads on either the bolt or the hole weren't clean when the permatex was applied. Or the hole has a crack.

The flat surface gaskets will often leak halfway between bolts when the pan or cover has dimpled bolt holes from being tightened a few times. These pans must have their bolt holes dimpled away from the rigid surface using the "Two ball peen hammer" system. This will insure when the bolt is tightened to it's CORRECT torque it will transmit that loading evenly halfway to the other bolt. A leak from the bolt area may mean that bolts threads require sealing or the bolt hole is cracked. Many composition gaskets like cork will sometimes wick oil through themselves.

RTV is a good adhesive but it's not a very good sealer around fuel, oil and anti-freeze. It is also not good around acrylic plastics where it chemically reacts with the plastic to cause crazing.

[mdog]

I have found that a flat file is a good way to find high spots around cast and stamped surfaces to be sealed. The surface is often raised up around threaded holes in cast pieces and usually raised at holes on stamped parts. Just lay a file down on the surface and slide it around gently and the high spots will quickly be evident and then the file can take them down on cast parts. It shows where the problem is on stamped parts. Some times you don't have room for this method but when you do it works great.

[TomM]

Ryan,
You are going in the same direction as I am regarding leaks. Being meticulous with checking surfaces and reasonably consistant with the evenness of sealants and tightening of fasteners properly is most important.
On the front axle I found using teflon tape instead of thread sealant on the bolts along with a light coat of permatex #2 on the gaskets sealed it.
The differential covers were secured a very light coat of aviation form-a-gasket on both sides of the gasket and teflon tape on all bolts. I also put thread sealant on the plugs. Both are leak free.
My transfer case had a pan leak when first filled. Removing the pan showed a very slight dent on the mounting surface of the pan. It was enough to cause a big leak. Per the previous post, use a flat file to find the high spot or level the surface. A standard gasket was installed and sealed with copper gasket spray. That took care of it. Again, seal all bolts and the plugs. Pay a lot of attention to tightning the bolts properly.
I used a sealed front bearing on the transmission. We'll see how that goes when it all gets moving.
One bottom kingpin bolt and the rear axle grease seal show a drip. Gotta work on that.
I am very confident that my rear engine seal will leak but the pan is now well sealed and all bolt threads were done with sealant. That seems to be a big drip area from my GPW.
Its a good exercise but I have a feeling our efforts are futile once its all started and driven lots of other forces come into play.
Tom