WOW! electrolytic rust removal

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 5:11 pm

[quote="Cacti_Ken"]What does this have to with Electrolysis?

"guys rebar is cheap and safe, do not use stainless steel! arm&hammer washing soda still sold in most laundry soap isles works quite well and is enviormentally friendly. I have been using this system for 15+years on antique tools,parts whatever and it just doesn't get any easier "just set it and forget it" (sorry) follow the instructions and you will be amazed at how much time can be spent on other tasks."
-toolmanm203

Set it and forget it.

Cacti_Ken · Post by **Cacti_Ken** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 5:39 pm

Set it and forget it!
I thought you might be selling roasters for Ron.

Cacti_Ken · Post by **Cacti_Ken** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 5:59 pm

I tried doing that method once. It is a cheap and easy way to derust parts. I decided for me it was messy, I ended up buying a blasting cabinet. Of coarse that does take a high volumn air compressor which I already had.

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 7:09 pm

pickle · Post by **pickle** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 11:23 pm

Hey guys. I was checking out the information and I had a couple of questions:

1) does it have to be soft water, or will hard water work as well?

2) once you pull the metal out, what are you treating the metal with to prevent surface rust right away? I realize that drying off and primer application is next?

For the manifold above, what was done after it was removed from the solution?

Thanks for the info!

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Fri Feb 04, 2011 9:04 am

I just used tap water and our water here where I live is hard.

I have just been taking the parts out of the bath, scrubbing with a wire brush and rinsing them off in a clean bucket of water.
Being winter and I have no heater in the garage, its too cold to be thinking about paint. Humidity isn't that high in the winter here so its not bad. I just blow them off with compressed air and shelf em. The cast iron peices do get a very slight surface rust but when the warm weather hits, I just figure I'll hit em quick with the brush again if needed, blow em off and wipe em down with xylene or whatever and hit with primer.

Balvar24 · Post by **Balvar24** » Fri Feb 04, 2011 9:48 am

What kind of amp were used? Harbor Freight has a solar charger that's rated at around 1.25A. Thought that that might be neat to try and use.

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:47 am

1.25 isnt enough power. I am using an old sears battery charger on the highest setting. I dont know how many amps the circuit is pulling but the needle reads in the low amps range. It may work if you were doing a tiny part in a small container and have lots of time to wait.

ocwd · Post by **ocwd** » Sun Feb 06, 2011 8:17 am

This is a great method for removing rust. Most of the paint comes off too. I used a 5 gallon bucket for small parts. I hung the parts from square tubing using bailing wire and attached the neg straight to the tubing. I haven't done any large parts yet.

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 12:05 pm

I'll take one of those $10 fuel pumps if they are dual action with vacuum

.

ocwd · Post by **ocwd** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 1:55 pm

Ha, you wish. Those were double chamber Willys truck pumps that I was trying to sell at Papago. No one bought any. I have too much junk in my garage

Balvar24 · Post by **Balvar24** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:26 am

I'm tempted to try this on large parts. Like fenders, grilles and my tub. I just don't know where to get a large enough tank!

ocwd · Post by **ocwd** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:46 am

Maybe you could buy a roll of plastic and build a cheap tank using 2x4s.

Balvar24 · Post by **Balvar24** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:53 am

Yeah, I just don't know how I'll make the seams in the plastic work out.

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 11:10 am

large plastic/composite stock tanks are available at your
local farm and ranch store but they aint cheap..

WOW! electrolytic rust removal

Bucket

Pumps

Tank