Got new stuff.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 12:50 pm

well that is a new one to me, but it sounds reasonable. of course that would mean removing the spark plugs and such to pour it into the cylinders and I am not sure I want to break that seal yet. right now the engine is sitting on a metal lined board in the driveway, I have no lift or dolly to move that sucker at the moment. I actualy got it off the trailer by shimmying it along with a large pipe.

frankthecrank58 · Post by **frankthecrank58** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 1:30 pm

i can attest to the diesel soaking. just got a '67 Jeepster that was parked outside and not run for 18 years. locked up solid. drained the oil and such a foul stench of old gas and oil. filled up the cylinders with a mix of diesel and auto tranny fluid and left it over night. next day got a pry bar and hung on the crank nut and it spun! pumped out the cylinders, cleaned the plugs, changed the oil and filter,spun the oil pump gear with a drill to get the oil through the galleys, threw some fuel in the carb, hot wired it........she sputtered to life. a few more times with the fuel and it ran. quietly(for an odd-fire Dauntless) shot a mouse nest out the exhaust and scared the dog

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 3:39 pm

Well this is gonna take more than some diesel. Spent some time with a couple sheets of plywood and my big pipe, leverage is such a wonderful thing, and got this engine into my shop. I opened the top and well

yes that is inches of water in there. very bad. I also posted a pic of the underside of the head.
now there is a pic of my small Mastercraft ratcheting bolt remover, I highly recomend these tools. They are well built and work better than advertized. Put the right size on a stripped bolt or nut and it cinches right on and off it comes. I have used these on many many things and they have never failed to grab.
Back to the engine. I need another can of wd-40, ran out, then I will keep stripping this down as long as the weather hold.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 3:55 pm

There are thousands of mechanics like myself with more than 45 years of wrench bending time that can assure you diesel fuel in those bores will beat the heck out of what you get with WD40 in there. WD40 is a preservative. What you want is a penetrant. You fill the bores with diesel, and spray soak the valve stems with Kroil or PB Blaster or just good old fashion Ford ATF mixed with acetone. Be patient and you will win.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/ho ... lubricants

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 4:01 pm

Patience is always the game. The wd-40 is for bolts and such. I will get some diesel eventualy, it would be just for this and the nearest station with diesel is about 30 minutes away. In the meantime I did soak up what I could and did put wd-40 in so the new air contact does not cause more rust. Surprisingly the thermostat was not jammed despite the feed being jammed full of dirt. So far things are coming off fairly easily, had to use a bar on the head bolts but everything else has come with just a wrench. Well except the fan, one bolt stripped hence the tool.

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:14 am

frankthecrank58 wrote: shot a mouse nest out the exhaust and scared the dog

Ha Ha!!That was a good one!!

Post by **wesk** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:31 am

That's a very common oversight with engines that have not been run in a long time. A lot of folks forget to check the intake and induction system for trash before they start but even twice as many folks never check the exhaust before trying to start the engine. A really plugged up exhaust will often prevent a successful start up and leave the owner scratching his head for days trying to figure it out. Probably 15 to 20% of the owners today complaining about lack of power probably have restricted exhaust from dead critters or rusting muffler baffles that are breaking loose and plugging things up.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 1:36 pm

Well got the rest open. The rust looks worse in the pics than in person. Cork seal on the oilpan. Still not moving but it hasn't been soaked either. Some of the valves were loose enough I could slide a shim in and move them, some are stuck some are not. Oilpan looks alright I think there was a small amount of oil still in there. You can kind of see the bottom end of the pistons in the one photo. Whats the pro opinion on this engine? Oh and the date on it was 2 4 42. Is that early in production? Not up much on when these started. Any other shots you want etc just ask.and thanks for the advise etc it is helpful.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 7:33 pm

I believe that would be Feb 4, 1942. Would have went in a Mar or April 42 MB. You should have no problem selling it on the G503 MB Sale Board.

DMCarpenter · Post by **DMCarpenter** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:14 pm

I second the PB Blaster for rusty nuts and bolts. They make a dandy spraying dry lube as well.

Dave

pickle · Post by **pickle** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 10:20 pm

I would second diesel on things that Wes said. I put diesel in my cylinders and it sat for 1 winter and a spring. With a little time, I moved the stuck valve freely, so much so that it is going great.

Regarding the Mb motor, give it a good look around the parts for the "F" script. It would be on the coolant bell on the top of the motor, and on the tranny. They command a little more money.

I picked up a Mb unit from a farm thinking that parts could be taken from it for spares. After hearing some say better to sell, I got a little worried that I wouldn't get my money back. Found the "F" all over it and it took all of 4 days before a friend of a friend who knew another friend was calling for the purchase. I sold it for more than I thought, enough to pick up an original M38 tank and battery box. Listen to Wes and et al.

frankthecrank58 · Post by **frankthecrank58** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 11:14 pm

there will be a buyer for that vintage motor for sure! take that money and look for a M-38 motor or complete jeep. some out of the states go for reasonable prices. one site you might find cool is eWillys.com. Dave Eilers runs the site and has a lot of valuable info.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 9:20 am

Alrighty, everyone seems to be in the sell category. I will probably continue to tinker, its the way I am. What should this be going for in this condition? Obviously a trade would be best.

Post by **wesk** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 12:21 pm

Depends on condition and what if any exterior parts/accessories are included. Just peruse the sale sites for an idea. My WAG is about $300 to $400 as it sites. The real key is block cracks and crank serviceability.

http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=210513 $500 w/accessories

http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=211851 Post war engine reduced to $900

http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=212044 Stuck pistons at $650.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 12:33 pm

Wow these are expensive. Didn't pay that for my whole jeep. Have to check for the F thingy. It has a generator, but its siezed, the pump on the driver side of block is busted, oil fill is destroyed. Manifold seems alright. Starter is there but most likely rusted solid as well, might be able to fix that though. The water pump has a hole in the bottom of it from rust I think. Only has the bottom end of the distributor, no carb. the shift lever on the trans is bent, could probably straighten it if you had the mind to though. Eyeball says rusty but intact, no visible cracks etc, frost plugs are intact.