Eastern Canada M38CDN
- ECVJeeps
- Active Member

- Posts: 195
- Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 6:00 pm
- Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Same process for all seams, the hat channels I etched primed on the inside and then a couple of coats of hi-build primer on the inside.
The weldable primer I picked up at one of the welding supply shops here in Halifax, Nova Scotia.
I did not want to be replacing hat channels ever again on this jeep.
The weldable primer I picked up at one of the welding supply shops here in Halifax, Nova Scotia.
I did not want to be replacing hat channels ever again on this jeep.
1952 M38CDN (in progress)
1942 GPW 51859(in waiting)
M100 CDN #0548(in progress)
M100 CDN #0281
1942 GPW 51859(in waiting)
M100 CDN #0548(in progress)
M100 CDN #0281
- ECVJeeps
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- Posts: 195
- Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 6:00 pm
- Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Another interesting thing I found with this M38 was that the axe head sheath was removed and the axe bracket holes were brazed up for some reason. Since I wanted the pioneer tools I had to find and replace the sheath.

I removed from my donor tub the axe head sheath along with the surrounding metal and used the existing footman loop holes to line up the axe head sheath.
I figured this was the closest I would get to locating it in the correct position.

Next I drilled completely through a few of the spot welds with a 1/8” bit, and then removed the donor section and continued to drill the spot welds out with a spot weld cutter.
I then re-positioned the axe head sheath to check fit and alignment, after I was satisfied I removed it, sand blasted both surfaces, prepped with weld through primer and re-welded the section in place.


Then I removed the section for the axe head bracket, cleaned up the backing plate with the welded nuts and fabricated a new patch panel and repaired that area.



Problem solved!
I removed from my donor tub the axe head sheath along with the surrounding metal and used the existing footman loop holes to line up the axe head sheath.
I figured this was the closest I would get to locating it in the correct position.
Next I drilled completely through a few of the spot welds with a 1/8” bit, and then removed the donor section and continued to drill the spot welds out with a spot weld cutter.
I then re-positioned the axe head sheath to check fit and alignment, after I was satisfied I removed it, sand blasted both surfaces, prepped with weld through primer and re-welded the section in place.
Then I removed the section for the axe head bracket, cleaned up the backing plate with the welded nuts and fabricated a new patch panel and repaired that area.
Problem solved!
1952 M38CDN (in progress)
1942 GPW 51859(in waiting)
M100 CDN #0548(in progress)
M100 CDN #0281
1942 GPW 51859(in waiting)
M100 CDN #0548(in progress)
M100 CDN #0281
- pickle
- Contributor

- Posts: 149
- Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:00 pm
- Location: Brandon, Manitoba Canada
Thanks Pat. so on the hat channels, did you drill your holes through the hat channels so they would be in a new location with respect to the old, or just go with it in a new location as you would have prepped the old stuff anyways?
and no paint on the inside of the hat channel at all, just the high build? I just wondered.
I appreciate all the advice.
thanks,
Mk
and no paint on the inside of the hat channel at all, just the high build? I just wondered.
I appreciate all the advice.
thanks,
Mk
- ECVJeeps
- Active Member

- Posts: 195
- Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 6:00 pm
- Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Where possible I used the original locations for the spot welds, however there were some places that had no original metal on either side so it was a best guess for these locations.
After the hat channels were drilled, and then I used a small drill bit, 1/8" in the drill to clean the paint from the underside of the tub. I would use the side of the drill bit tip to scratch the paint from where the weld was going. This method can also be used in a tight area to remove rust if you do not have access to a sand blaster.
No paint on the underside of the hat channels is correct. I use the weldable primer on the mating surfaces, both sides. Then a couple of coats of epoxy hi-build primer again on both surfaces, tub underside and the inside of the hat channels.
I did not paint inside the hat channels because when I am completely satisfied with how the jeep is running I plan on spraying rust check inside the hat channels.
This will leave the underside a bit oily, but here in Canada where they use tons and tons of salt to keep the roads clear of ice and snow each winter, it will be worth it.
I do not plan on driving my jeep in the winter, however the reason it was rusted out as bad as it was is because of where it has spent a good part of its life.
The salt on the roads, and living less than 10 miles from the ocean is not a good combination for body metal in our vehicles here on the east coast of Canada.
Cheers
After the hat channels were drilled, and then I used a small drill bit, 1/8" in the drill to clean the paint from the underside of the tub. I would use the side of the drill bit tip to scratch the paint from where the weld was going. This method can also be used in a tight area to remove rust if you do not have access to a sand blaster.
No paint on the underside of the hat channels is correct. I use the weldable primer on the mating surfaces, both sides. Then a couple of coats of epoxy hi-build primer again on both surfaces, tub underside and the inside of the hat channels.
I did not paint inside the hat channels because when I am completely satisfied with how the jeep is running I plan on spraying rust check inside the hat channels.
This will leave the underside a bit oily, but here in Canada where they use tons and tons of salt to keep the roads clear of ice and snow each winter, it will be worth it.
I do not plan on driving my jeep in the winter, however the reason it was rusted out as bad as it was is because of where it has spent a good part of its life.
The salt on the roads, and living less than 10 miles from the ocean is not a good combination for body metal in our vehicles here on the east coast of Canada.
Cheers
1952 M38CDN (in progress)
1942 GPW 51859(in waiting)
M100 CDN #0548(in progress)
M100 CDN #0281
1942 GPW 51859(in waiting)
M100 CDN #0548(in progress)
M100 CDN #0281
- ECVJeeps
- Active Member

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- Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 6:00 pm
- Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
- evanso1975
- Jeep Enthusiast

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- Location: North Yorkshire, UK
- M38CDNBill
- Contributor

- Posts: 133
- Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2007 6:00 pm
- Location: Trois-Rivieres, Canada
- ECVJeeps
- Active Member

- Posts: 195
- Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 6:00 pm
- Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
- M38CDNBill
- Contributor

- Posts: 133
- Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2007 6:00 pm
- Location: Trois-Rivieres, Canada
Sure, I know North Bay and went often at Temiskaming.ECVJeeps wrote:...I see you are from Three Rivers, my home town is North Bay, kinda close.
Chut! don't talk too loud, my wife hearing fine...ECVJeeps wrote:...project is always a good thing, it keeps me out of the house and out of my wife's way...
Cheers
Guy aka M38CDNBill
1945 Willys MB
1945 Chevrolet G7107 (in progress)
1945 Willys MB
1945 Chevrolet G7107 (in progress)
- ECVJeeps
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- Posts: 195
- Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 6:00 pm
- Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
M38CDN Update
Well after a bit of a delay I finally have an update on my wife's M38.
[img]http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/23 ... 203554.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/23 ... 203530.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/23 ... 625_1_.jpg[/img]
For some reason I can't seem to get the pictures to load?
Sorry guys.
[img]http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/23 ... 203554.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/23 ... 203530.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/23 ... 625_1_.jpg[/img]
For some reason I can't seem to get the pictures to load?
Sorry guys.
- wesk
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- Contact:
The account where the photos are hosted must be public. If you used a password to access the site then it's not public.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php