DIFF ID

oilleaker1 · Post by **oilleaker1** » Fri Aug 02, 2013 9:56 pm

That's very nice! First time seeing them for me. You have a military rock crawler.

John

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Sat Aug 03, 2013 10:51 am

Dropped the driveshaft. Engaged the yoke and spun the wheels.
The CLUNK originates at the pinion engaging the ring gear.
Noticeable when 1st starting off or switching from forward to
reverse gears. I'll install a set of lock straps, button it back up
and drive it till it gets too annoying.

oilleaker1 · Post by **oilleaker1** » Sat Aug 03, 2013 1:43 pm

The clunk you hear, is it without the driveshaft connected? Just wondering about the ujoints and slider in the driveshaft. I've had ujoints that are worn make a clunk. John

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Sat Aug 03, 2013 2:13 pm

CLUNK w/o driveshaft connected. U-joints are new.
W/cover off and DS off I could get the CLUNK and
a visual of the pinion and ring engaging at that
moment.

Ps: a big thanks to all the guys who PM'd and e-mailed
offering to take the powr-locs off my hands and save
me so many problems and headaches. But I just wouldn't
sleep at nite knowing I had dumped my problems on
a pal..

oilleaker1 · Post by **oilleaker1** » Sat Aug 03, 2013 3:06 pm

You are such a considerate jeep guy not wanting to screw thy fellow Jeeper

This clunk, is the backlash? No movement up or down on the pinion, and not the axle slack being taken up? If so, you may need to re-shim it for the correct backlash. The limited slip units I own are quiet rolling straight ahead and turning is when the noises are heard. Yours look like the clutch pack type limited slip. The ring is not moving on the bolts? Since the lock tabs are gone, I'm wondering if bubba has been in there. Paint white grease on the ring and turn it through and look at the pattern. You'll know if it's too much heel or toe that way. I usually check the forward or thrust side the most. If worn, they never seem to make a nice pattern on both sides. When done, give up and I'll get a pallet ready for shipment. I'll need both front and back to give you a better deal----OK?

John

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Tue Nov 12, 2013 1:59 pm

Just a follow-up on the Diffs. Per Wes's advice I added this
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0006475893
to my gear oil and the clutches really quieted down. Got the missing
ring gear lock-straps from John @ MWM and will be installing them
soon. Makes a big difference when you got the right "juice" in those
Powr-Loc diffs.. There's still a faint thud now and then in the rear
when going from fwd to rev and I believe its just the little slop
at the pinion and ring gear.

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Tue Nov 12, 2013 4:04 pm

Good to hear. I'm sure it will just be another sound you will become accustom to. Your set up will be virtually unstoppable on the hills.

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Fri Nov 15, 2013 4:30 pm

Will be installing the missing ring gear lock straps in the rear
diff tomorrow and changing the GO front and rear.
Would I be better served adding the limited slip powr-loc additive
to GL1 or GL4-5? Ive got both GL types on the shelf..

EDIT: further research tells me GL1 not suitable for hypoid
gears, I'll mix my limited slip additive with GL5.

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Mon Apr 07, 2014 2:02 pm

4 months later (no sense getting in a hurry right?) I finally got around to crawling under and installing the missing ring gear lockstraps, torqued to 40-50 ft/lbs and good to go. Cross that off my list....

buzzk · Post by **buzzk** » Mon Apr 07, 2014 3:49 pm

I had power loc diffs on my other 38 in va beach front and rear got them out of a a1 cut my finger off getting them out from underneath , just the frame and axles they reattached my finger You want to talk about a pullig machine on the beach on suger sand ,all four wheels would dig in and boink poped up like a ballon ,still kicking myself in the arse for selling the jeep buzz

DIFF ID

power locs