1950 M38 find

Start your project thread here for advice and for others to follow along with your project. This is a long term thread.
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4x4M38
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Post by 4x4M38 »

The front has a tag with M, 43 and 8 on it.
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

43 8 is the ratio. 43 teeth on the ring gear and 8 teeth on the pinion gear. 43 divided by 8 = 5.375 or more commonly written as 5.38:1.

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Rear axles. Left WWII MB model 23-2 full floater and Right M38 Model 44 semi-floater
Last edited by wesk on Mon Jan 19, 2015 7:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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4x4M38
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Post by 4x4M38 »

Thank you Wes.
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Fuel tank

Post by 4x4M38 »

So today I pulled my old varnished tank out that I found through
another board member. The welds and sheet look pretty good ,
but there is a lot of varnish in the bottom. Might be what has
preserved the bottom steel.

I removed the vent and sender tops. The sender is a disaster.
The filter is gone. Digging around in the tank I found a misshapen
mass that appears to have some fine brass screen in it. Filter?

The vent top came off along with the ring the screws go into.

Goodie. I was hoping for a major cleanup and back in service
but it looks like I need a trip to a rad shop to reattach the screw
ring. They'll have to clean it, so might as well have them check
it for leaks.

In any case it is still a good deal over a repop so am grateful
for the tank. Information is not the only thing our members
provide to each other.

In the meantime I'll go ahead and clean up and plumb the CJ
tank that came with the jeep. Seat frame repair will have to wait
until I get the M38 tank in.
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Post by ACRay »

I'm pulling my hair out with my tank too, It's an original M38 but it's rusted internally and there's a few holes. I cleaned the rust up by filling it with vinegar and changing out the vinegar over a few days. BUT the holes I patched started to leak again... My filter and pick up tube are also almost garbage, but I'm going to fix what I can and work with it.
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Post by 4x4M38 »

Hi Ray!
Maybe that F16 that went over earlier was headed your way!

Take heart. There are pages of posts where the recommendation
is to have the holes patched, with panels if necessary, versus
going the repop route.

With all of the oilfield business around a guy should be able
to find someone that can cut and patch your tank.
Brian
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Post by 4x4M38 »

Here's a pic of the tank. The screw ring was completely detached. I wondered why there was so much black RTV around both openings...

Image

http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gall ... _tank.jpeg

I was tired of crawling around under and around the jeep so decided to work on something else for a change. One nice thing about this hobby? is if you become tired or bored with one aspect there is always something else to do!
Someone suggested a while back to tackle excess Bondo and paint with a propane torch. Fired mine up on Tuesday and let me tell you that thing works like a charm! Kind of like soldering, keep the heat movig forward and you can just scrape the stuff off!

On the left rear I found Bondo, several coats of primers and paint, and up high...this:

Image

http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gall ... _lead.jpeg

Gents, that is a repair made with lead. Old. School. Read about it many years ago in custom hot rods and car mags, but never seen it.

Spent a few hours cleaning most of the grille, or guard as it's called, then shot it with some self etching primer. Wow. That can give one some serious inspiration!

Image

http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gall ... rimed.jpeg

An improvement, right?

Image

http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gall ... .sized.jpg

B
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Post by 4x4M38 »

Thanks to Bretto, RickG and others.

Whittled these out of 5/16" rod worked cold. Took my time and was patient.

Nothing broke.


Image

http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gall ... uards.jpeg

Figured here in the Hill Country I need some protection for that glass!
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Post by 4x4M38 »

Cold, rainy, nasty weather days are for tinkering with all of those small bits and pieces you took off and cleaned up, or found....

Image

http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gall ... .sized.jpg

Image

http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gall ... front.jpeg

Image

http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gall ... _rear.jpeg

I am going with a voltmeter, and a mechanical oil pressure gauge for now. I bought an original temperature sender from Brent Mullins for the resistor equipped temp gauge I bought from RJF, and am going to try it as an experiment. We'll see.

Still need speedo pointer, glass, and counter wheels, the two clips that go on the back of the speedo, and a fuel gauge. And replace all of the wires on the lights. I primed the back to prevent rust down the road. I will ground everything to a couple of wires attached to the cowl as per Wes' suggestion.


Brian
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Post by ACRay »

Wow, lookin good!
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Post by 4x4M38 »

Thanks Ray!

I've had lots of help!
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Post by RICKG »

Nice work on the lamp guards Brian.
I may have a spare 5 wire spider harness for your gauges if you need it.
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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Post by 4x4M38 »

Thank you Rick.

You and Bretto are to thank for those gizmos!

I am indeed looking for a five wire.

Brian
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Post by 4x4M38 »

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Post by RICKG »

RICKG wrote:Nice work on the lamp guards Brian.
I may have a spare 5 wire spider harness for your gauges if you need it.
check that.. 4 wire #27 spider. i'll foto it and PM ya.
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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