Hawkshadow's '52 M38CDN

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:16 pm

I picked up some thinner Karropak. It was 1/64" and was the thinnest in the store. I took my time tracing out the outline and the finished product looked pretty good and installed well. The one thing that I did notice is that it actually feels slightly tougher to turn the pump with the top installed that when it was free... should I have used the next thicker one or should the top be a little tight to keep the pressure up inside the pump?

Here is the method that I used to find 5 deg before TDC. I aligned the 0deg of the protractor with the TDC notch (ensuring that when the notch was at the indicator it was at actual TDC), and backed off until the 5deg aligned with the raised indicator on the timing cover. It is approximate, but seems fairly accurate.

A shot of the current status with studs and water pump installed. I chose to stick with the 3 pulley water pump that came with the vehicle for now.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:22 pm

The cover clearance with the gear set is why I mentioned you should really find the correct gasket which is sized to insure the clearance is correct between the cover and gear set. Did you make all the fit checks listed in the oil pump inspection and assembly directions in the TM 9-1804A or TM 9-8015-1 as appropriate? Note during final pump assembly you are instructed to install the cover without the gasket and torque the screws and the gear set should not be turnable by hand. Then you install the gasket and they should turn smoothly and there may be a slight amount of friction.

Have you checked pulley alignment between all three components using a pulley alignment rod? Crank, Gen & water pump and then each corresponding pulley groove.

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:53 pm

Time for an update,

I was able to spend some time getting some more work done on the frame. This included cleaning up old pop-corny welds, fixing cracks or thin spots, removing 2 bent frame shackle mounts, prepping the rear end to accept the new crossmember, and fixing the cut out spots in the front end. I'm quite happy with how the welding is turning out - having a friend with the right equipment is quite helpful!

Plasma cutter removing a shackle mount

Removal of plate to facilitate crossmember install

New MD Juan rear crossmember set in place

Front end, Passenger side:

A little flat stock and some welding:

Cleaned up:

And primed:

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Sun Sep 08, 2013 8:56 am

What else should one do with their long weekend other than jeep work?!

New spring shackle mounts bolted and welded in place.

New MD Juan rear crossmember set in place:

The problem was that the mounting holes on the driver's side don't line up! The right side lined up perfectly and the measurements from crossmember tip to frame (compared to the next jeep over with all original frame) were bang on.

Although it wasn't a huge inconvenience for me because I was intending to weld and put faux rivets over the holes, be advised that it is a possible problem that you may encounter on yours. If you were intending to utilize the holes, I would suggest filling them and drilling new ones in the crossmember as opposed to your frame..

Rear crossmember welded in place, and faux rivets created. They look great! A close match to the originals in appearance. [Note: see the how-to guide located in the parts review section here for a detailed process]

The frame is done and on to media blasting!

Next, I finished stripping down the axles and prepped them for media blasting.

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Wed Oct 23, 2013 3:28 pm

Time marches on and so does the progress!

After much debate I decided to go with a unique concept for the body. I approached Linex to see what they could contribute. Working with them we were able to colour match the green, and utilize a technique which would produce a much less textured coating. I had the complete underside linexed, along with typical problem rust spots such as in the toolbox, in the battery box, under the gas tank, and in the rear lamp housings. I couldn't be happier with how it turned out! It was a good investment on a replacement tub to ensure durability and longevity while still not detracting from the appearance. I also decided to have the frame done, taking great care to ensure that the frame number was left untouched. After a single coat of green on the rest of the tub, it's starting to look sharp!

The old tub acting as a shelf with a mixture of parts ready to go.

Front axle rebuild coming along:

I reconditioned the original backing plates, and received all new hardware which went together like a glove.

Not too sure about this drum.. I've never seen a balanced drum before, but this piece of metal sure is welded on there good and tight...

Front axle buttoned up. I went to re-install the steering assembly on the axle only to find the new M38 tie rods were 1/16" too large for the existing tubes. One is 3/4" and the other 11/16". I am doing research now to find if the ordered tie rods are incorrect or the existing hardware.

Rear axle almost done, just finishing the brakes to go.

I re-installed the transmission crossmember and axle bumpers. It was quite a momentous occasion seeing things being attached for once! At the end of the work day this is how everything looked. Frame: Linexed and beginning reassembly. Body: paint coat 1 applied and beginning reassembly. Front axle: buttoned up ready for install. Rear axle: Almost done. Tranny/ Transfer: Next onto the bench!

donk_316 · Post by **donk_316** » Mon Nov 04, 2013 3:50 am

Well done:)
I like this thread alot. I havent had a chance to even touch my CDN since it was rolled into the spare garage a month or two ago. Theres alot of spare parts and boxes of things i havent gone through. Still need to pick up the other spare engine, trans, x-case and axles...

Anyways, keep up the good work!

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Wed Nov 20, 2013 11:51 pm

Thank you for the compliment donk_316. Once it warms up again in the spring get into your jeep! You definitely won't regret it. If you have any questions, drop me a line and I'm more than happy to help where I can.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Today was a very big day... It took a bit of work but a rolling chassis was born!!

How to:

Attach the springs to the front axle and roll it all in to place

Attach spring shackles and add brand new monroe shocks

Repeat with the rear axle, and...
A chassis is born!

Moving on to the transmission.
Here she is separated from the transfer case and bell housing.

Once all of the grease was removed the bell housing is the same ford tractor grey as the engine

SFCKUNERT · Post by **SFCKUNERT** » Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:15 pm

Looks great and it's really coming along. I think you are about 6 months ahead of me but your pics are helping. My tub is completely disassembled and the frame teardown starts this weekend so I can get them to the blaster before the holidays.
Keep up the progress!

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Mon Apr 07, 2014 5:23 pm

It's been one long, cold, and bitter winter... but as the temperature increases, so does the tempo once again.

The transmission and transfer case are torn down and blasted. Awaiting a couple extra parts that didn't come with the rebuild kit, then it's time to go back together.

The replacement tie rods arrived and have been swapped out.

I wasn't planning on rebuilding the steering box.. but when I inspected it, the seals were gone. And well.... inside there were several table spoons of water, cracked bushings, and a sector shaft with worn lobes. So, a rebuild it is.

On the upper housing cover there is an oil seal which does not appear on the exploded diagram (Figure 95 in the body train and frame pam TM 9-1804B). Additionally, it doesn't seem to be listed as a replacement part from many of the suppliers and it's a different size from the sector shaft oil seal Any suggestions?

SFCKUNERT · Post by **SFCKUNERT** » Tue Apr 08, 2014 12:19 pm

Where did you get your steering box rebuild kit from? Trying to get mine ordered as well.

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Tue Apr 08, 2014 3:13 pm

I haven't ordered yet, but it looks like Midwest has everything that I need.

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Wed May 07, 2014 7:47 pm

A replacement seal was ordered from debellas. The seal didn't appear to fit and was discussed at length in the technical forum on this site. The final conclusion is that the seals are not interchangeable as seen in the picture below.

Additional pictures as requested in the forum specifically addressing the issue.

So I continued with the rebuild and re-used the old seal as it was in decent shape. Note part numbers for those who are going to be building on their own.

It is working well after the box was filled with oil. For those who would attempt a steering box rebuild on their own: it is a fairly easy build, but be advised that you may have to ream the brass bushings slightly. A Dremel with medium grit sanding drill worked quite well.

The engine was moved to the same location as the jeep and is prepared to be mated with the the transmission once that rebuild is complete.

Diff covers prepped with liquid gasket. Magnets JB welded to the drain plugs prepared for fluid

Diffs filled with Gear Oil. The drill-powered fluid transfer pump works very very well for this purpose.

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Tue Sep 16, 2014 7:40 am

It's time for an update, there has been much progress!

One of the big upgrades on this jeep from a safety standpoint is the addition of a dual reservoir master cylinder. For those who don't know, the old one controlled the front and rear brakes in the same system. 1 leak and the entire system is down. A dual reservoir splits it in 2 so that if one goes down, you don't find yourself without brakes. The kit installed very easily with minimal modification (although it hurt to drill those 4 mounting holes into the frame!)

The transmission and transfer case were rebuilt - quite a project.

Mounting everything together with the new overdrive.

Installing the clutch in preparation for transmission mating. Investing in a simple clutch alignment tool saves a lot of time!

Fast forwarding through much frustration while aligning and mating the two... it's done!

Again fast forwarding through a bit of work getting everything to line up into the frame... a little paint and it's beautiful!

Onto some brake fabrication. Not difficult, just time consuming. Investing or borrowing a quality double flaring kit is a must for the steel lines.

Here's how she sits now. Feeling more put together and coming along quite nicely.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Tue Sep 23, 2014 8:45 pm

Hawk,
There is a custom car shop here in town. They did a frame off on a CJ3. They did something similar to you. They contacted the coatings folks and color matched the lining to match the body paint. All floor boards, fuel tank, tool box, everything flat that rusts and gets scraped was coated.

I thought a great idea.

Can you share any information regarding your conversations with the Linex folks? I'm wondering if at the very least under the fuel tank and tool box would be a good place to put that stuff.

Take care,
Brian

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Wed Sep 24, 2014 11:25 am

Thanks for the compliment. It was a pretty simple process with them. The location where I had it done in Burligton, Ontario had the colour code on file and it looks great. On the tub I had the underside, tool box, under the gas tank, and in the cowl battery box done.