Project Salty

Start your project thread here for advice and for others to follow along with your project. This is a long term thread.

Moderator: wesk

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4x4M38
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Location: Texas Hill Country

Post by 4x4M38 »

Hi Wes,
Yes I looked in your albums.
Just missing it I guess.

I liked the way he added a fuse panel and relays to an M38 schematic with changes to accommodate those as well as the CJ foot switch.

Pretty slick.
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CoastieReid
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Location: Yorktown Virginia

Post by CoastieReid »

I guess I should have been more specific with my comment

"My Jeep will be 12volt. I checked all my lights- they have 24v bulbs in them, and work. But I can switch the bulbs to 12v ones. Sorry it’s upsidedown. I couldn’t edit for whatever reason. The 24v bulb in my hand is replaced by this #67 which I use on my f100 "

Should have said- I did change the bulb to 12v ones. The next pictures are with 12v bulbs. All the bulbs were changed that night- but whatever.

Look- I get it. this is your sand box and for all the million times you have been helpful, you also have an air of arrogance. I also have 24 years of military experience of which 12 of those years deployed onboard ships, and all in Engineering! I didn't go from E1 through E7 to CWO2 as a Naval Engineer and up to 03E Engineer Officer of a 270 foot long cutter because of my looks trust me. Maybe I actually do know some things. Maybe I actually do study.

I read a post in the dozens of searches I have done and you specifically called someone out for not checking your photo album and to do that before asking a dumb question. Enough.
April
i have a build thread on Youtube. just type in CoastieReid in the search.
MC 66792 5/52
Hood # 20942580
L134 # MC 91518

M100 trailer #01279054
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Miss April,

Please feel free to leave this awful site anytime you feel it to be at your advantage. I have never posted the sentence you just posted above. Yes I have referred folks to my album for answers to simple questions but your misrepresentation of my comments is off this planet. Yes when folks ask questions here and the question clearly shows the person does not understand the system and has not completed any serious research then instead of handing them answers on a platter I give them the page number in the appropriate manual or guide to solve their issue. Call it arrogance but where I come from it's called challenging folks to meet higher expectations. If you feel you are already on top of everything then you really have no need for this web site.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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CoastieReid
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Location: Yorktown Virginia

Post by CoastieReid »

I guess I just made it up..... :roll:

I suspect a lot of people do not come back because of the prickly environment this (and many) forum takes on. Should I leave? I don't feel the need to; but if you want me to leave then you have to say it. I will leave your sandbox.

I was going to reuse the holes the previous owner drilled on the dash of this jeep. I ended up deciding not to.

I welded the holes up and drilled new holes where I want to put my accessory switches.

Image
April
i have a build thread on Youtube. just type in CoastieReid in the search.
MC 66792 5/52
Hood # 20942580
L134 # MC 91518

M100 trailer #01279054
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4x4M38
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Joined: Thu May 29, 2014 6:00 pm
Location: Texas Hill Country

Post by 4x4M38 »

April,
Will your power cut off switch fit in the firewall hole for the accessory plug?
Left of the cowl battery box?
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

I suspect a lot of people do not come back because of the prickly environment this (and many) forum takes on. Should I leave? I don't feel the need to; but if you want me to leave then you have to say it. I will leave your sandbox.
April,

No I will not expell you from the sandbox. I will offer you a tube of vaseline and suggest where you place the sandbox. I have tired of the laziness I find among the newer folks here who treat this web site like a Facebook Page. I think I have had enough of the last 26 years with this site and your type.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

My apologies for the short interruption which I created to give members adequate time to thoroughly investigate our comments. Do enjoy the web site.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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CoastieReid
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Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2019 6:00 pm
Location: Yorktown Virginia

Post by CoastieReid »

Since the premodern wire harness isn’t exactly what I thought it would be.... the fuel tank sending unit wire is a few feet short, the turn signals were wired weird ( to what the brake light was- which means the brake light would flash while you are sitting waiting to turn) and a few other oddities- I bought more wore and will fix it.

A few nights ago, I drew out the wiring schematic I need to make the things work on my Jeep. From power to ground all around.
Marked the light switch pigtail too for wiring. Need to cut up the wire harness a little. Has an ammeter setup in wiring, but not installed in my Jeep. Need to run the wire for the volt meter gauge.

Paint pen the raised letters.
Image

Still waiting on parts to show up, and now the additional wire. I could use standard wire from the parts store, but I found the same clothe covered 16 gauge in different colors/stripe combos. Will use that instead.

Decided since the replacement horn came in. I tore apart the 12v spartan horn housing.
Crusty inside.
Image

Sanded the housing.

Image

Modified a new $15.00 pancake Horn I found on amazon. I am not spending $75 on the same thing from KW. The horn is probably the exact same thing. Product photos sure do look the same, I tested it alone, then as it was modified to fit inside the Spartan housing. Sounds alright to me.

Image

Little semi gloss paint.


Image


If it is fully dry tomorrow, I will reassemble with new screws. Somehow I lost a stud in the grass while I was sweating away the wasp Andy swarm of mosquitoes.
April
i have a build thread on Youtube. just type in CoastieReid in the search.
MC 66792 5/52
Hood # 20942580
L134 # MC 91518

M100 trailer #01279054
RonD2
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Joined: Wed Oct 01, 2014 6:00 pm
Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

Post by RonD2 »

Hi April,
It's great to see the update.

If you have no need for the guts from your Sparton horn I'll take them off your hands. Name the price.
Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

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CoastieReid
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Location: Yorktown Virginia

Post by CoastieReid »

I ended up using the main ring. I cut the center out, mounted my new horn to it and I used it to help hold inside the housing. Not much of it left.
April
i have a build thread on Youtube. just type in CoastieReid in the search.
MC 66792 5/52
Hood # 20942580
L134 # MC 91518

M100 trailer #01279054
RonD2
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Posts: 2065
Joined: Wed Oct 01, 2014 6:00 pm
Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

Post by RonD2 »

If all you have left is the diaphram, I'll take it.
Image
Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

User avatar
CoastieReid
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Posts: 382
Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2019 6:00 pm
Location: Yorktown Virginia

Post by CoastieReid »

Will do. I have it’s the shed. Have to hit the post office this week at so,e point. Will send it down,
April
i have a build thread on Youtube. just type in CoastieReid in the search.
MC 66792 5/52
Hood # 20942580
L134 # MC 91518

M100 trailer #01279054
User avatar
CoastieReid
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Posts: 382
Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2019 6:00 pm
Location: Yorktown Virginia

Post by CoastieReid »

Finished assembling the horn.
Image

Image

Don’t like how it’s “clocked” in position, so I will fix that tomorrow. I need to turn it just one hole set clockwise.
Tests good! Sounds like the road runner meep meep sound.
It was 90+ and not trying to give myself heat stroke out there, I didn’t do much else. Just mocking stuff up.

Have this small 6 point fuse block. Since it would fit up behind the gauge panel,
Image

The orange thing is a welding magnet acting as a support for positioning. There is an inch on the battery box side and above. Still can turn the battery cut out switch right below it with ease.

In 25 years of driving and the 15 cars I’ve owned. Blew one fuse ever. If I ever had to access that panel, easy enough by dropping the gauge panel. Have to do that on my 63 truck anyway.

Image
April
i have a build thread on Youtube. just type in CoastieReid in the search.
MC 66792 5/52
Hood # 20942580
L134 # MC 91518

M100 trailer #01279054
User avatar
4x4M38
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Posts: 3487
Joined: Thu May 29, 2014 6:00 pm
Location: Texas Hill Country

Post by 4x4M38 »

April,
Will the fuse panel fit where the breakers would go on the side of the cowl battery box?
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CoastieReid
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Location: Yorktown Virginia

Post by CoastieReid »

it would fit sideways on that same mount, but i added an L bracket so i could see the fuses. The fuse panel is just a little too wide to screw directing into that small area. Another reason I added the L bracket.
maybe this picture is a little more clear. I have two welding magnets holding it there for me to see if the gauge panel will fit.
It did. I also just moved my speedometer cable over one hole.
I might go with this. Not sure yet.

Image

It is square, so in the photo, the positive post is on the bottom. the yellow tab is the interlock for the cover. loads to the sides.
You could screw that panel any configuration you wanted. I also debate of putting positive to the top. It has an inch clearance.
April
i have a build thread on Youtube. just type in CoastieReid in the search.
MC 66792 5/52
Hood # 20942580
L134 # MC 91518

M100 trailer #01279054
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