MB/GPW Questions
Moderators: TomM, Moderator, wesk
MB/GPW Questions
Evening all.
I know this isn't the site for the MB/GPWs but there's a lot of knowledge and experience with them here and I'm more familiar with the people.
I've been talking with Wes - thanks again Wes for taking the time to help me out and answer my questions - regarding my search for a GPW or MB WWII jeep.
Background - I have a 1952 M38 that I love and enjoy driving whenever I can. However, I've always wanted a WWII jeep. Right now I lean towards a GPW but either would be great.
I was looking for one back in 2007-08 until I found my M38. At the time the prices were beyond my means. They're still pricey but I've been saving up so now my budget for a decent running one that I can work on and improve is in the $10k+ range.
There are ones that look like showroom queens going for $20k-28k and ones that look like "barn finds" going for $10-18k. I've attached a link to one I found in Maine, closer to me than Colorado or Georgia or such places. The challenge I've found is how to assess - based on the pictures. Obviously in person is such better but even then my practical knowledge is really more recent - 1980s cars and newer. The nature of time.
Here's the link:http://www.ewillys.com/2017/02/28/1943- ... -me-18000/
Looks like the craigslist post expired today but you get my intent. Is this really worth close to what the seller is asking? How might I assess based on pictures, especially when rust always looks nasty but isn't always bad?
Bottomline, if I could find what I want in my price range closer to home - like I did with my M38 - that would be great but.....
Thoughts, ideas, recommendations, etc?
Thanks.
-Josh
I know this isn't the site for the MB/GPWs but there's a lot of knowledge and experience with them here and I'm more familiar with the people.
I've been talking with Wes - thanks again Wes for taking the time to help me out and answer my questions - regarding my search for a GPW or MB WWII jeep.
Background - I have a 1952 M38 that I love and enjoy driving whenever I can. However, I've always wanted a WWII jeep. Right now I lean towards a GPW but either would be great.
I was looking for one back in 2007-08 until I found my M38. At the time the prices were beyond my means. They're still pricey but I've been saving up so now my budget for a decent running one that I can work on and improve is in the $10k+ range.
There are ones that look like showroom queens going for $20k-28k and ones that look like "barn finds" going for $10-18k. I've attached a link to one I found in Maine, closer to me than Colorado or Georgia or such places. The challenge I've found is how to assess - based on the pictures. Obviously in person is such better but even then my practical knowledge is really more recent - 1980s cars and newer. The nature of time.
Here's the link:http://www.ewillys.com/2017/02/28/1943- ... -me-18000/
Looks like the craigslist post expired today but you get my intent. Is this really worth close to what the seller is asking? How might I assess based on pictures, especially when rust always looks nasty but isn't always bad?
Bottomline, if I could find what I want in my price range closer to home - like I did with my M38 - that would be great but.....
Thoughts, ideas, recommendations, etc?
Thanks.
-Josh
North Shore, MA
Santa Fe, NM
1942 GPW
1952 M38
1964 Apollo 5000 GT
De Opresso Liber
Santa Fe, NM
1942 GPW
1952 M38
1964 Apollo 5000 GT
De Opresso Liber
Josh,
I would think your experience with your M38 already gives you a leg up
on what to look for. And in person inspection seems the prudent thing.
Look, if you are thinking of spending 8-10 grand the extra price of a plane
or train ticket would be cheap if it keeps you from buying something
you don't want.
Just my two cents.
I would think your experience with your M38 already gives you a leg up
on what to look for. And in person inspection seems the prudent thing.
Look, if you are thinking of spending 8-10 grand the extra price of a plane
or train ticket would be cheap if it keeps you from buying something
you don't want.
Just my two cents.
north America is currently losing a lot of the ww2 jeeps as the folks in Britain are buying them up a ridiculous prices. They are paying upwards of 20-30k for an as is jeep and even more for a rebuilt one. Definitely do your homework though.
Carievale Saskatchewan Canada
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
Use this site during your search. We have members in every state. Any of them would be happy to make a quick hands on inspection of a prospective purchase for you.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- oilleaker1
- Member
- Posts: 973
- Joined: Wed May 13, 2009 6:00 pm
- Location: South Dakota
I bought one 25 years ago for 1200.00 and it was a barn find. CJ engine, bad T 84, bad diffs, needed all floors, missing most of the military equipment etc. They now are about the same price as then. It costs more to fully restore it 25 years later. A 15,000.00 job back then would fully restore it. Now you are looking at 20-25,000.00. That's why they are priced higher now.
A numbers matching GPW will bring quite a bit more. I finally landed a numbers matching GPW 2 years ago, and I still haven't re-painted it. Too busy driving it. I love it to death. I always watch for them even though I have both MB and GPW. I think a good project that has most all original parts will be between 5 and 7 grand now. The more original it is, with no rust, you'll go up from there. Re-pop bodied ones look great, but bring less. I saw a perfect Slat grill with re-pop body have a hard time getting 13 grand. I also saw a perfect original for 42 grand. You'll just have to wing it and see what shows up. A deal will sell in hours, so have your buy it now finger ready-----LOL. John
A numbers matching GPW will bring quite a bit more. I finally landed a numbers matching GPW 2 years ago, and I still haven't re-painted it. Too busy driving it. I love it to death. I always watch for them even though I have both MB and GPW. I think a good project that has most all original parts will be between 5 and 7 grand now. The more original it is, with no rust, you'll go up from there. Re-pop bodied ones look great, but bring less. I saw a perfect Slat grill with re-pop body have a hard time getting 13 grand. I also saw a perfect original for 42 grand. You'll just have to wing it and see what shows up. A deal will sell in hours, so have your buy it now finger ready-----LOL. John
- oilleaker1
- Member
- Posts: 973
- Joined: Wed May 13, 2009 6:00 pm
- Location: South Dakota
- oilleaker1
- Member
- Posts: 973
- Joined: Wed May 13, 2009 6:00 pm
- Location: South Dakota
I noticed on ebay a Ford GPW 10 miles from me. I PM'd the guy and asked him if 2500.00 would buy it. No bids on it. I wanted to also go look at it. He replied and said it most likely would go to a european buyer and that he already had a offer of 4500.00.
Wasn't worth that. Sure enough, that's what happened. Word of mouth and craigslist are your best sources. I found my GPW when a local business owner asked me if I wanted another old Jeep. He gave me the guys card. It was 40 miles away from me. Two weeks later and lots of negotiation and I loaded it up. The owner wanted a fishing boat and the wife said: "The Jeep has to go then". 45,000.00 fishing boat!!!!!!!!!! This guy paid to have all work done on it. He got screwed. I had to go back and fix their fixes. John

-
- Member
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Wed Jun 10, 2015 6:00 pm
- Location: Orem, Utah
- Contact:
MB/GPW Questions
Good morning all.
I found this and a few others online. It's out of my price range that I wanted to spend but am interested in everyone's feedback on it. However, if it was worth more than worth the asking I would move on it. Not sure that's the case though.
Wes has been helping me but I don't want to monopolize his time.
-Josh
http://willysforsale.com/ads/september- ... d-running/
Write up:
Here's my basic, pre-prepared write up for it:
I did not do the initial restoration, so I don't have any history on
it from before I bought it. I bought it in 2011 in a semi-restored
condition on consignment from a dealer, who was selling it on behalf
of the family because the owner had passed away. I call it
semi-restored, since there was a lot of work to be done to get it
running and looking properly. I have added a lot of details and
replaced lots of parts to have it looking correct for 1943.
As with any jeep, there is always more work to be done, depending on
what you want it to look like. One of the things I started doing last
year was buying F-marked bolts and replacing some of the incorrect
bolts around the jeep. Currently, I'm having an issue with the horn
and headlights not working properly, but I have parts on hand and
should have that corrected soon. (Just waiting on warmer weather.)
Here's some of the recent work I've done: Last summer: rebuild engine
(cost about $3,000), replace entire exhaust system behind the
manifold, replace all fuel lines and re-route back to original
configuration through the original fuel strainer, replace battery,
starter, starter switch, and all cables involved in the starting
system, replace gas pedal, replace felt pads around radiator, repaint
radiator, replace battery retaining rods, replace radiator hoses with
correct GPW type.
Previous work I've done: Replace dual wipers with correct single
type, replace brake master cylinder, rebuild carburetor, rebuild fuel
pump, fill in all the random holes drilled into the body and dash from
post war upgrades, add spare tire lock, add valve stem protectors,
replace reproduction reflectors with originals, and of course any
general maintenance items to fix things that break or require upkeep.
Engine and frame numbers do not match. Engine is May, 1945 Ford. The
paint on the body is too thick for me to tell what the number is, but
it is an ACM tub, which Ford started using in late 1943.
It's fully restored to look like a serviceable WW2 jeep. If you
wanted to make it a perfect 1943 Ford GPW right off the line, there's
lots of work to be done to it. But if you're looking for a jeep that
runs well and looks correct for WW2 service, it has everything it
needs. This one has the advantage of not really being a project jeep,
but will still allow you to have the satisfaction of making
improvements as you see fit.
I found this and a few others online. It's out of my price range that I wanted to spend but am interested in everyone's feedback on it. However, if it was worth more than worth the asking I would move on it. Not sure that's the case though.
Wes has been helping me but I don't want to monopolize his time.
-Josh
http://willysforsale.com/ads/september- ... d-running/
Write up:
Here's my basic, pre-prepared write up for it:
I did not do the initial restoration, so I don't have any history on
it from before I bought it. I bought it in 2011 in a semi-restored
condition on consignment from a dealer, who was selling it on behalf
of the family because the owner had passed away. I call it
semi-restored, since there was a lot of work to be done to get it
running and looking properly. I have added a lot of details and
replaced lots of parts to have it looking correct for 1943.
As with any jeep, there is always more work to be done, depending on
what you want it to look like. One of the things I started doing last
year was buying F-marked bolts and replacing some of the incorrect
bolts around the jeep. Currently, I'm having an issue with the horn
and headlights not working properly, but I have parts on hand and
should have that corrected soon. (Just waiting on warmer weather.)
Here's some of the recent work I've done: Last summer: rebuild engine
(cost about $3,000), replace entire exhaust system behind the
manifold, replace all fuel lines and re-route back to original
configuration through the original fuel strainer, replace battery,
starter, starter switch, and all cables involved in the starting
system, replace gas pedal, replace felt pads around radiator, repaint
radiator, replace battery retaining rods, replace radiator hoses with
correct GPW type.
Previous work I've done: Replace dual wipers with correct single
type, replace brake master cylinder, rebuild carburetor, rebuild fuel
pump, fill in all the random holes drilled into the body and dash from
post war upgrades, add spare tire lock, add valve stem protectors,
replace reproduction reflectors with originals, and of course any
general maintenance items to fix things that break or require upkeep.
Engine and frame numbers do not match. Engine is May, 1945 Ford. The
paint on the body is too thick for me to tell what the number is, but
it is an ACM tub, which Ford started using in late 1943.
It's fully restored to look like a serviceable WW2 jeep. If you
wanted to make it a perfect 1943 Ford GPW right off the line, there's
lots of work to be done to it. But if you're looking for a jeep that
runs well and looks correct for WW2 service, it has everything it
needs. This one has the advantage of not really being a project jeep,
but will still allow you to have the satisfaction of making
improvements as you see fit.
North Shore, MA
Santa Fe, NM
1942 GPW
1952 M38
1964 Apollo 5000 GT
De Opresso Liber
Santa Fe, NM
1942 GPW
1952 M38
1964 Apollo 5000 GT
De Opresso Liber
Josh, if you find one listed in the Delaware/Eastern Shore of MD area I'll be happy to look at if for you. This guy is a couple of hours away from me.
http://www.classicjeeprestorations.com/
http://www.classicjeeprestorations.com/
Afternoon all.
I think I found a good WWII jeep to buy, but it's on the West Coast so getting it back east is going to be a challenge.
I've been looking through some of the WII manuals I've found online to learn a bit more about them but had a couple questions.
Are the engines in the MB/GPW the same engine as was used in the M38 - without the later 24V and waterproofing set up? I think so but want to confirm any differences.
For those that are familiar, is there anything specific to the MB/GPWs I should look at first?
The jeep I'm getting was, supposedly, restored in 2014 but the owner acknowledges that it smokes on acceleration. From talking with other MB/GPW owners it sounds like a potential culprit are the piston rings. I'm researching to understand what I'll need to do to replace those rings and how to assess if the pistons need to be replaced, aside from being cracked.
Anyway, I have family an hour away from where this jeep is and it's in my price range but want to learn more before I plunge.
Thanks!
I think I found a good WWII jeep to buy, but it's on the West Coast so getting it back east is going to be a challenge.
I've been looking through some of the WII manuals I've found online to learn a bit more about them but had a couple questions.
Are the engines in the MB/GPW the same engine as was used in the M38 - without the later 24V and waterproofing set up? I think so but want to confirm any differences.
For those that are familiar, is there anything specific to the MB/GPWs I should look at first?
The jeep I'm getting was, supposedly, restored in 2014 but the owner acknowledges that it smokes on acceleration. From talking with other MB/GPW owners it sounds like a potential culprit are the piston rings. I'm researching to understand what I'll need to do to replace those rings and how to assess if the pistons need to be replaced, aside from being cracked.
Anyway, I have family an hour away from where this jeep is and it's in my price range but want to learn more before I plunge.
Thanks!
North Shore, MA
Santa Fe, NM
1942 GPW
1952 M38
1964 Apollo 5000 GT
De Opresso Liber
Santa Fe, NM
1942 GPW
1952 M38
1964 Apollo 5000 GT
De Opresso Liber
Man, I don't know. Nobody puts 20,000 miles a year on these guys.
Probably minimum what it would take to wear the rings out with poor maintenance.
That would give me pause about the rebuild or maintenance.
Now the other thing is if they NEVER drive it, then fire it up, don't let it get
to operating temp...
Look, you already own a flattie jeep. The WWII guys are the same
exact technology era. Just use your experience with your jeep to
give you some insight. We are all glad to help. Just think about the many
things you' ve learned with the one you have.
Probably minimum what it would take to wear the rings out with poor maintenance.
That would give me pause about the rebuild or maintenance.
Now the other thing is if they NEVER drive it, then fire it up, don't let it get
to operating temp...
Look, you already own a flattie jeep. The WWII guys are the same
exact technology era. Just use your experience with your jeep to
give you some insight. We are all glad to help. Just think about the many
things you' ve learned with the one you have.
Thanks Brian!
Yeah, it's a jump and doing some of this sight-unseen makes me more cautious. And I've been pestering Wes, probably driving him a bit nuts.
I'll let everyone know how it all works out!
http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php? ... _photo.php
-Josh
Yeah, it's a jump and doing some of this sight-unseen makes me more cautious. And I've been pestering Wes, probably driving him a bit nuts.
I'll let everyone know how it all works out!
http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php? ... _photo.php
-Josh
North Shore, MA
Santa Fe, NM
1942 GPW
1952 M38
1964 Apollo 5000 GT
De Opresso Liber
Santa Fe, NM
1942 GPW
1952 M38
1964 Apollo 5000 GT
De Opresso Liber