My son and I are at the point where we have the frame fully stripped and were looking at potentially straightening the 'thing out. It seems to have had damage behind the drivers side wheel where there is a slight buckle in the frame. A BFH can knock it back down but there is still some twist if I measure diagonally from one shock mount to the other.
A local frame shop is telling me once they get a twist there normally not fixable. Do we abandon this frame and look for a good used frame or are there some DIY stories or examples that bucked the pro's advice? The diag measurement difference is about 3/4" and if I use a come-along to force the dimensions equal then the frame sits level and looks about right. Problem is as soon as I release the cable pressure it springs back to the twisted shape. The drivers side shackle mount near the master cylinder is also about 3/4" lower than the other side. The patch of concrete were measuring from is reasonable flat as I ran a long straight edge across it prior to any of these measurements.
I've tried use the come-along to go beyond the 3/4" twist to hopefully allow the frame to twist back but no luck. I'm afraid were going to bend it so badly we won't have any other alternative but get a different frame. Suggestions welcome.
BTW - 1955 M38A1. We have the drive-line all ready to go back in but were hoping to sandblast this and add things back on. Obviously that will likely not happen if we have a basket case for a frame.
M38A1 Frame troubles - need advice
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jnissen
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- wesk
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I would secure at least three frame shop opinions before going any further. Also when you ask for these opinions make sure you have the frame with you on your trailer and the come along in position to demonstrate the temporary removal the twist.
If still no professional help to fix then I'd map the exact location of the twist/deformation of the frame rail. Then come along it just a tad over square and heat the target area glowing red hot with a torch. You may still need to do some tweaking with a hydraulic ram here and there.
If still no professional help to fix then I'd map the exact location of the twist/deformation of the frame rail. Then come along it just a tad over square and heat the target area glowing red hot with a torch. You may still need to do some tweaking with a hydraulic ram here and there.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- OKCM38CDN
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I am not a pro, so I am going to make a suggestion. Heat - heat up the area that has the twist when pulled into a straight position. Or will that do something to the frame that is not good?
As I said not sure if this will do more damage than what you have...
Some folks with more experience will probably give better advise...
Hope this helps... if not we may learn something today...
As I said not sure if this will do more damage than what you have...
Some folks with more experience will probably give better advise...
Hope this helps... if not we may learn something today...
Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK
- zeke57
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jnissen
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