STEERING STOP ADJUSTMENT BOLTS

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Tue Feb 22, 2011 2:48 pm

ON A DIFFERENT THREAD ABOUT TIRES THE STEERING STOP ADJUSTMENT BOLTS WERE MENTIONED.
I REPLIED THAT MINE HAD BEEN WELDED IN PLACE.
THE OTHER POSTER (MCKIM) REPLIED THAT HIS TOO HAD BEEN
WELDED BUT THAT HE HAD CUT THE WELDS.
QUESTIONS: WAS THE WELDING TYPICAL ON THE M-38?
AND WAS IT MOTOR POOL BUBBA OR SHADETREE BUBBA THAT DID
THE WELDING. THX GUYS..

idiocrates · Post by **idiocrates** » Tue Feb 22, 2011 5:01 pm

Mine weren't welded so I suspect this was a civilized bubbification......
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/22032 ... .jpg[/img]
P1170021 by idiocrates, on Flickr[/url]

I'm not real sure this was the original axle under this m38a-1....but at least when its all said and done.....I will at least be 100% certain I got this part back into its correct position
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/22032 ... .jpg[/img]
P1170018 by idiocrates, on Flickr[/url]

Post by **wesk** » Tue Feb 22, 2011 8:33 pm

I would gues a motor pool issue to prevent unit operators from adjusting them in to allow tighter turn circle.

reddog · Post by **reddog** » Wed Feb 23, 2011 8:20 am

I have the same thing on my M38

jeeps8 · Post by **jeeps8** » Wed Feb 23, 2011 7:49 pm

SAme here, they were welded on my M38.

Cacti_Ken · Post by **Cacti_Ken** » Fri Feb 25, 2011 8:01 pm

Mine also.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Feb 28, 2011 12:17 pm

Well since we seem to have a lot of interest here I asked Keith B to help us out. As usual he managed to find the Spicer drawing and Spicer welded the adjustments after setting the angle at 30 degrees. That number is conservative enough for the Rzeppa and Cardan steering knuckle joints but a bit too far if you have Bendix joints.

The Spicer model 27 front axle blueprint was changed in May 1952 to 23 degrees

mckim · Post by **mckim** » Mon Feb 28, 2011 12:48 pm

Wow, the information people have! I have Bendix joints, so does that mean I should have the adjustment bolts farther out than they were before? By how much? I can't seem to find anything in either TM 9-8012 or TM 9-1804B.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Feb 28, 2011 1:28 pm

TM 9-8012 lists the angle at 22.5 to 25 degrees.
TM 9-804 lists the angle at 25 degrees
TM 9-1804B refers you to TM 9-804 which of course was superseded by TM 9-8012 for alignment and adjustments. Also there's a bit of confusion over the location of the data. Some manuals give the angle in the front axle xhapter and others in the steering chapter.

The civvy flat fender manual SM 1002 Pg 235 Par O-17: Before Mid 1957 23.0 Deg. w/Bendix and 29.0 Deg. w/Rzeppa and after mid 1957 all 27.5 Deg. I think the drop to 27.5 as the max limit was for the new Cardan joints.

If you are at the Spicer setting of 30 degrees and you have Bendix or Carden joints it would be wise to adjust to the 27.5 figure or less.

The Spicer model 25 front axle blueprint was changed in May 1952 to 23 degrees.[/u]

mckim · Post by **mckim** » Mon Feb 28, 2011 4:18 pm

OK, I see the specs now. I was looking in the steering section instead of the front axle section.

Cacti_Ken · Post by **Cacti_Ken** » Mon Feb 28, 2011 5:41 pm

I adjusted mine so the wheel would not touch the fender. I don't know how to adjust for a certain angle or have the tools to do it.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Feb 28, 2011 8:50 pm

Actually some chalk, the garage floor, straight edge, carpenter's square, plumb bob and a little geometry is all you need. A simple angel finder (protractor type) would make this even easier.

Set the right front tire straight ahead (you can use a long straight edge against the front and rear tire sidewall to determine when the front tire is straight ahead.

Now hold the straight edge across the sidewalls on the front tire. Drop a plumb bob from the front of the bar and mark the spot on the floor. Then drop the plumb bob at the rear of the bar and mark the floor. Now draw a line on the floor thru those two marks. Now you have you base straight ahead line on the floor parallel to the front tire. Now turn that wheel as far as possible towards the center of the jeep.

Now put the straight edge against the tire sidewall again. Do the plumb bob again on both ends and mark the floor then draw a line thru the two marks allowing the line to intersect with the first line. The angle of that intersection is your turning angle that was controlled by the left side stop screw.

Now if you take the carpenter's square and put it's long leg along the straight ahead line and draw an intersecting line from it's corner to the 2nd line that represents the full left position of the tire.

If you had a protractor angle finder you could now just lay it on the rear angle (intersection of the two lines) and measure the angel.

If you don't then just do the geometry computation to determine the two unknown angles of you right triangle.

Post by **wesk** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:11 am

Please note that I overlooked the May 1952 change to the Spicer model 25 axle blueprint.

The Spicer model 25 front axle blueprint was changed in May 1952 to 23 degrees

Cacti_Ken · Post by **Cacti_Ken** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 3:01 pm

Wow! I guess I do have the tools. I just needed the instructions.

Thanks Wes

RimfireJim · Post by **RimfireJim** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 8:00 pm

I see in the downloads section that there is a technical bulletin, TB 9-804-12 dated 3DEC53: "To prevent contact of front wheels against chassis frame, fender and lifting hook." Is this related to setting the stop bolts to 23 degrees?

BTW, the trigonometry for using a carpenter's square per Wes's method is:

Angle=arctangent(rise/run)
where
rise=reading on short leg of square
run=length of long leg of square

For a common 16" x 24" carpenter's square and Angle=23 degrees, rise=10-3/16"