Original leaf spring re-arching

Brian · Post by **Brian** » Thu Dec 15, 2011 9:57 pm

Has any one had any luck re-arching original springs?

I have a passenger side sag (mostly front right spring set). I would really like to keep the jeep as original as possible and was curious if anyone tried re-arching instead of replacement.

The leaf springs are not rusty and still have USMC overspray on them, so I am hoping that it might just work.

-Brian

Post by **wesk** » Thu Dec 15, 2011 10:57 pm

Brian,

You should run a search for "Leaf Springs" or "Spring Re-arching" and you'll see quite a few posts on this very topic.

The short answer is NOS new springs work out best in the long run. If you cannot find or afford them then re-arching is an adequate answer.

If you elect to re-arch (also referred to by many shops as rebuild) your springs always do both on the same axle. How well this would work for depends entirely on the quality of your selected spring shop's work.

If you have not yet noticed the jeep was originally built heavy sided. The engine and tranny are aligned slightly to the driver's side along with the gas tank and the of course the driver. To offset this you have 1/2 of the transfer case biased to the right and the batteries are on the right.
The spare and gas can balance each other out.

So as you can see with a full tank and only a driver the jeep will be loaded more on the left meaning the left springs will start to sag first. Since willy made no accommodation for this by strengthening one spring (the two rears are the same and the 2 fronts are the same). Just about 9 out of every 10 jeeps lean to the left an inch or so regardless of the age of the springs. If your springs are in good shape and it is only this normal left droop an inch then the simple fix is to shim the right rear spring down an inch.

TomM · Post by **TomM** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 7:59 am

Yes, I have had luck taking springs to a truck spring shop and having them rearched.

On the M38 I took the original spring packs to them intact. They rearched the springs and re-rivited the bands or made new bands where they had broken. New bushings were also installed. Do them as a set.

When finding a shop look for one that specifically advertises spring repairs for trucks. If you can find one that also caters to the hot rod crowd that helps too because those guys are very specific about what they want for ride height. Most other shops will just tell you to buy new springs from them.

Please post your location in your profile so we know in what part of the country you are living. If you are in New England try Palmer Spring in Providence.

major519 · Post by **major519** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 5:37 pm

Here in Canada I inquired about the repair and re-arching of springs for my M38A1. It turned out cheaper and with a better end result to obtain NOS springs.

TomM · Post by **TomM** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:04 am

Depends upon what you are after. NOS Service replacements look very different from originals. If you are going for a factory restoration they won't pass muster.

major519 · Post by **major519** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:33 am

Well, I hate to differ, but I guess I got lucky and obtained exact original replacements for mine...

TomM · Post by **TomM** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 5:37 pm

Many are very interested to know who is selling replacement springs that are exact. Feel free to post the vendor.

When I was looking the vendors had service replacements that had differently constructed main leaves. If that's not the case today its good to hear since competent spring rebuilders are difficult to find.

major519 · Post by **major519** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:56 pm

I was fortunate enough to dig up a complete set through a couple different vendors. Granted, this is not the norm as there are a few vendors doing repros that are not exact.

32sbct · Post by **32sbct** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:14 pm

Stay away from springs made by Crown Manufacturing. They are not close to the originals and I had to have the spring eye reamed out by a machine shop to get enough clearance to get the shackle busing started.

Post by **wesk** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 11:50 pm

519,

If you have a line on a couple of vendors with the correct springs then please name them here for all to benefit.

Brian · Post by **Brian** » Sun Dec 18, 2011 4:01 pm

Thanks for the advice.

I live in central IL and keep getting an error2 message when I try to type in my home town on the personal information page.

Is there a spring spec that I should take to the spring repair vendor? We have a couple of good spring shops in the Peoria and Bloomington IL areas.

Wes, I will do some searching on older posts for more info, thanks for the tip.

captw · Post by **captw** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 12:57 pm

Hi...firstly, Chris, thanks for the message about the mule tires...secondly, in regards to NOS springs, I'd like to find a set for the M38, which are different than the M38A1 springs I've seen, as the M38 springs are somewhat beveled at the outside edges...has onyone got a line on correct NOS M38 springs?...thanks in advance...Wilf

SFCKUNERT · Post by **SFCKUNERT** » Tue Sep 30, 2014 11:10 am

Hey Brian, do you recall the name of those shops that will work on the springs? I live up North but am traveling down state next week and would like to drop them off if possible. Thanks for your help.

OldDinger · Post by **OldDinger** » Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:31 pm

"If your springs are in good shape and it is only this normal left droop an inch then the simple fix is to shim the right rear spring down an inch."

Wes, I don't understand. Can you explain it to me. I'm old and get confused easily. thanks

Post by **wesk** » Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:56 pm

If you search for the term spring willysmjeeps in google you will find this answer as well as here:

Look carefully at the layout of the jeep's chassis. The following are all biased towards the left side of the jeep weight wise:

1-The engine
2-The gas tank
3-The driver

The items with weight biased to the right are the front axle pumpkin and the outboard half of the transfer case.

This makes the jeep naturally heavier on it's left side.

Willys didn't care. Both front springs are interchangeable left to right. Both rear springs are interchangeable left to right.

So the jeep rolls out the door at Willys/Kaiser with the left side about 1/2" lower than the right. With the driver and old age this turns into about 1 to 1 1/2" low on the left. Your two options are:

1-Increase the spring rate for both left springs.
2-Lower the right side about 1".

A really sharp spring repair and overhaul shop can deal with the spring rate increase for you for a price.

Or you can lower the right side by adding shims between the axle housing and the spring pad. Sounds odd adding to lower height but trust me if you lay under the jeep long enough and stare at the plate with the two big U-bolts you will finally see that adding a shim there will bring the body down!

Original leaf spring re-arching

Original leaf spring re-arching

rearch springs

springs

springs

re: NOS M38 springs