Would a guy be better off using Permatex 1 (hardening)
or permatex 2 (non-hardening) to seal coolant leaks @
head studs. Both 1 and 2 are mentioned in previous posts.
HEAD STUD SEALANT
- RICKG
- Jeep Legend

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HEAD STUD SEALANT
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
- evanso1975
- Jeep Enthusiast

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From the Permatex website:
Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 1 Sealant
Fast-drying, hard-setting sealant designed for sealing rigid materials and flanges, or patching holes and joints where permanent assembly is desired. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists common shop fluids and fuels.
Suggested Applications: Freeze plugs, threaded connections, manifold gaskets
Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Sealant
Slow-drying, non-hardening sealant designed for sealing cut gaskets and stamped parts. Allows for easy disassembly if required. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists common shop fluids and fuels. Use where sealing is more important than adhesion.
Suggested Applications: Valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets
That bit I highlighted in bold text should answer your question. However, as with all questions in life the manufacturer should know best.
Their contact details are here:
http://www.permatex.com/about_contact.htm
Wbr,
Owen.
Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 1 Sealant
Fast-drying, hard-setting sealant designed for sealing rigid materials and flanges, or patching holes and joints where permanent assembly is desired. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists common shop fluids and fuels.
Suggested Applications: Freeze plugs, threaded connections, manifold gaskets
Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Sealant
Slow-drying, non-hardening sealant designed for sealing cut gaskets and stamped parts. Allows for easy disassembly if required. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists common shop fluids and fuels. Use where sealing is more important than adhesion.
Suggested Applications: Valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets
That bit I highlighted in bold text should answer your question. However, as with all questions in life the manufacturer should know best.
Their contact details are here:
http://www.permatex.com/about_contact.htm
Wbr,
Owen.
Owen
1951 US Air Force M38
1944 F-1 1/2-ton Airdrome Trailer
1940 C15 Chevrolet CMP 11-cab
1939 DKW KS200 Motorcycle
MVT # 19406
1951 US Air Force M38
1944 F-1 1/2-ton Airdrome Trailer
1940 C15 Chevrolet CMP 11-cab
1939 DKW KS200 Motorcycle
MVT # 19406
- artificer
- Active Member

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- Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:00 pm
- Location: Gold Coast Australia
Any GM dealer will have head/thread stud sealer in a 4oz can. Dip studs in sealnt & screw in finger tight into block ensuring all threads are @ the deck level [do not torqe the studs by double nutting or any other method].
John GIBBINS
ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician 2002 USA
Licensed Motor Mechanic NSW # MVIC 49593 Current
YOU CAN'T TROUBLESHOOT WHAT YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND
ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician 2002 USA
Licensed Motor Mechanic NSW # MVIC 49593 Current
YOU CAN'T TROUBLESHOOT WHAT YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND
- RICKG
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- 53a1
- Jeep Enthusiast

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I used the #59214 high temp thread sealant. Haven't had a problem yet. I also use the same stuff on all my pvc plumbing.
Just a guess but if I were to choose between the hardening & non-hardening I'd go with the non-hardening in the chance it might mess up the threads if you remove the studs. Plus when you re-torque, you need it to be pliable.
Just a guess but if I were to choose between the hardening & non-hardening I'd go with the non-hardening in the chance it might mess up the threads if you remove the studs. Plus when you re-torque, you need it to be pliable.
'53 M38A1 X2
- wesk
- Site Administrator

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- Contact:
Remember you do not torque or retorque head studs. You torque and retorque head nuts on an L134. The stud is not suppose to move during either process so a hardening sealer on the threads is not an issue.
I've used Permatex 1 for 40 years without any problems. Yes there are newer, fancier and more specific products today that even cost more but are not really necessary on this 3/4 century old engine.
I've used Permatex 1 for 40 years without any problems. Yes there are newer, fancier and more specific products today that even cost more but are not really necessary on this 3/4 century old engine.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
-
skyjeep50
- Jeep Enthusiast

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- Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 6:00 pm
- Location: Illinois
I used the Permatex high-temp sealant on my M38 engine studs but after having some leakage issues went back to Permatex #1. The high-temp stuff was a rather thin, almost watery compound and the coarse threads of the studs seemed to me to require a thicker sealant. I'm sure the high temp sealer is good stuff for fine threads but maybe not coarse thread head studs installed finger tight - just my 2 cents.
1951 M38
- 53a1
- Jeep Enthusiast

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