distributor

JAM · Post by **JAM** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 11:49 pm

Not if my question rain on wet floor, but it will because using the search did not find the specific answer. (I'm sorry)
the question is: is it possible to convert a submersible distributor M38 24v to 12v and maintain its quality submersible?
Anyone have experience in this, or know how to do?

if possible, what parts should be replaced?

Thank you

wilfreeman · Post by **wilfreeman** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 8:15 am

I think there was a discussion on here (or somewhere) about a 12v coil fitting in the waterproof housing if you cut the top of the coil tower down. Then you can switch the condenser to a 12v one.

After doing some searching, I can't find the info - maybe I didn't read that. I DID find a thread on here about 12v coils designed for the waterproof distributors:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... t=12v+coil

Post by **wesk** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 8:46 am

The easiest way is to use the 12 volt coil designed for that distributor.

Otherwise add a standard 12 volt coil mounted on the two studs still on the block for it and fabricate a dry box to surround it. Then run a civvy coil wire from it to and into the military distributor cover.

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 11:35 am

wesk wrote:The easiest way is to use the 12 volt coil designed for that distributor.

.

I remember this post with reference to an e-bay supplier with 12v
coils for the waterproof dist.
http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php? ... light=coil

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-IGNITION- ... 19e62d3663

JAM · Post by **JAM** » Tue Jul 08, 2014 12:36 pm

Thank you all for your support, but is still of interest to me how it is the coil inside the distributor body.
Since it is waterproof, I would not drill, and in the future lead to problems of internal moisture.

For now, I confirm that with conventional coils due to its size it is impossible to my desire.
So far I've only managed to take much interest in studying all you can about coils and operation (something that is pleasing me a lot)

Regarding publications on ebay, be careful with some of them it is not relevant to this distributor coil.
Note that the upper contact point is in the center, and we seek must be offset to match the cap.

I have a dealer for a 6 cyl engine. and the cap has its focal point centered in the coil.
Actually I own one also incomplete M151, and another with a broken cover M38.

Surely the project will end up being called "frankestributor"

I have in mind other options, but I need to confirm technical specifications equivalent to the original coil.
If someone could guide me where to get it appreciate, and if I can do it, would be the most practical solution and viablee. Slightly laborious adaptation at first but once would be forever.

The need and the difficulty, in countries like this, has the advantage that the mother of invention.

I will continue to report progress.

Thank you very much again.

Jose Angel

JAM · Post by **JAM** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 12:32 pm

wesk wrote:The easiest way is to use the 12 volt coil designed for that distributor.

Otherwise add a standard 12 volt coil mounted on the two studs still on the block for it and fabricate a dry box to surround it. Then run a civvy coil wire from it to and into the military distributor cover.

wesk course, an alternative is easy to implement, but my idea is a bit more ambitious, even more laborious.
I do not want to compromise the sealing Dealer nor its external appearance.
I take this opportunity to ask if someone has the courtesy to get these two measures?

I have not the coil, and the need for my adaptation project.

I'll make a container the size of the coil corresponding to M38, to fit within, another smaller coil, which is easy to obtain in the country where I live

The idea is not mine ... I gave it the Russians,

Thank you

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 12:56 pm

A= 2.6" OR 52MM
B=.71" OR 18MM

I hope these measurements help. They're as close as in can get.
I hope my inch to mm conversion is correct (close).

JAM · Post by **JAM** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:12 pm

First of all, thank you very much for your response rate, expected no less from you, rickg.

but there seems to be an error in the measure A.
1 "= 25.4 mm.

2.6 "x 25.4 = 66.4 mm

I think multiplied 2.06 "instead of 2.6"
The diameter of the bottom circle distributor is precisely 52.5 mm, then the coil should suppose must fit circle is, and it looks like the top has more diameter than the cylindrical body of the coil.

what value I assume as valid?
Whenever we talk about dimensions, I can give them in the system that you find most comfortable for you, I have no problems.

I am very grateful ... anyway, I hope your answer.

Jose Angel

JAM · Post by **JAM** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 1:17 pm

Rickg, are you there?:)
Forgot this measure

sorry, and also ask what theme rings embossed on the cover.
the smaller diameter will be to maintain the centering spring cap, but the biggest I marked in yellow what is?
Some kind of electrical insulation is used circling the point of contact?

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RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Sat Jul 12, 2014 10:30 am

Jose, yes A is 2.06"

a-2.06"
b-.71"
c-3.88"

an additional measurement at the collar with mounting ears is 2.16"

I do not have an answer to your question about the ring @ top.

JAM · Post by **JAM** » Mon Jul 14, 2014 12:17 pm

Thanks rick, with these measures, the preliminary work (drawings) for the new coil, are finalized.
Now I only need to find a single coil, the spark plug used on
having the appropriate external dimensions, or
capable of being resized. externally.

JAM · Post by **JAM** » Tue Jul 15, 2014 9:31 pm

Well guys, I continue with the project. I've got the proper coil in size. Is used by Ford explorer engine 4.6 L.

You can remove the rubber tubular extension that reaches the plug, it should also remove the attachment lug has, thus its length is reduced to a size that
fits in the cavity of the distributor.
Rubber extension must be reserved and trimming, with the intention of connecting the coil below the lid of the new container, with the contact button to the cap spring platinum.
Another question:
With this dry coil, I guess I should also add a pre resistance, right?

Post by **wesk** » Tue Jul 15, 2014 9:44 pm

If we assume your jeep is 12 volts and the Ford 4.6 was 12 volt then one would have to know the coil's specs or see the wiring diagram for the Ford 4.6 truck that used the coil. That is probably a single cylinder coil? If so does it have adequate output for the 4 cylinder jeep engine?

JAM · Post by **JAM** » Wed Jul 16, 2014 11:48 pm

In the process of searching and learning on the subject, I found this interesting and well handbook explained Bosch, who clarified me the little knowledge he had, and brought many others unknown, very simple and didactic. (Widely recommend reading , knowledge does not take place)
It is written in Spanish but sure you can also get jnglès ... and if not: google translator for him ...
http://www.catalogobosch.com/Biblioteca ... endido.pdf

My idea was preconceived, but needed some literature on the so-called plastic coils.
Apparently I do not see that there is no impediment to use one of them, except for its size, if it meets the required specifications.
If what I want is the conversion to 12v (coil, rotor and its internal resistance) should be identical to that used by the CJ3A, that keep the rest of the ignition system alike.

As far as I understood the manual I mentioned above, the coil is for the car that is, its function is the same, whether single coil or common ... and is to produce a high amount of volts, while support a maximum number of sparks per minute ... are those that will require engine RPM.
A couple of minute to understand more clearly the calculations readings, and I have the concept of equivalence with the coil corresponding to willys, clearer.

It would also be interesting to know whether the spark waterproof (which I already have), appropriately work with 12v.

Josè Angel

JAM · Post by **JAM** » Thu Jul 31, 2014 12:32 am

Except mounting ears, and I finished the job of adapting the coil.

First the drawing to check the available space inside the distributor and how to place the new 12v coil.

Distributor I bought cheap on ebay knowing he had broken a terminal on the cap.

Cleaned and finished to put the new coil 12v. After devote some time to rebuild the terminal is broken.
I know how to do, but need some tips, as a precaution.

These are all parts constructed and used in the packaging for the coil. I had to do taper to maximize the available space. (AISI-304)

Detail of the top inner side

Detail of the top side outer side

And thanks to the dimensions you gave me rickg, conceded everything perfect