1950 M38 - wanting opinions

aforests · Post by **aforests** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:05 am

Greetings. I am new to your site and am glad I found it. Lots of great pics and information. I'm hoping you all will take a look at my 1950 M38 pics and tell me what you think of it. I messed around with it back in High School about 20 years ago, but mainly rebuilt the L head engine in it. Didn't do much after that but park it in the trees and tarp it. I finally pulled it out this fall and got it in my finished garage to start working on it.

Right now I am just doing a lot of reading and research to see what I have and what I will want to do with it. I want to keep it original and or bring it back to as original as I can.

Is this in good enough shape to bring it back without costing me a fortune? Or do you guys see it more as a parts jeep? Just looking for opinions and comments.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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Post by **wesk** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:20 am

I see a very original M38 with an original military arctic top. Granted there's a 12 volt conversion, civvy distributor, missing crossover induction pipe and a wee bit of rust to deal with. What are the serial numbers on the dash serial plate (bottom right) and the patent plate (behind the pass seat backrest on the wheel house)?

Some things to think about:

1-Just how restored do you really want to go? A daily driver, a quality motor pool class resto or a perfect factory original show jeep?

2-How much of the work will you do yourself? This would depend on your qualifications, experience and available tooling.

aforests · Post by **aforests** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:40 am

Thanks for replying! I enjoy hearing what experienced people have to say about this jeep.

I have added photos of both the serial number plate and patent plate. I had to try and remove about 3 coats of paint from the patent plate, but came out pretty legible...

I am hoping to restore it to a very nice looking jeep and good daily driver. Show would be great, but not willing to put the money in to it. I am pretty handy and can do much of it myself. I would probably have someone do much of the rust repairs.

What do you think of the paint? I tried sanding some areas down to find the original green, but in many cases, it sanded from the red, to white to reddish brown then metal. Strange that I could not sand down to green or find hood numbers, etc...

Post by **wesk** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 11:27 am

I have added photos of both the serial number plate and patent plate. I had to try and remove about 3 coats of paint from the patent plate, but came out pretty legible...

Next time use Dot 3 brake fluid and let it soften the paint a day or two then wash off with water.

I am hoping to restore it to a very nice looking jeep and good daily driver. Show would be great, but not willing to put the money in to it. I am pretty handy and can do much of it myself. I would probably have someone do much of the rust repairs.

Then I would start by dissassembly of the jeep and then deliver all the body parts to a bead blasting shop and have them cleaned up. Then take the parts that need metal repair to a body shop.

Then when you have them all back in your garage decide weather to paint them yourself or hire out the painting. Since the jeep was never shiney and glossy pretty from the factory and the semi-gloss OD is easy to shoot I would consider doing it yourself. If not then hire it out.

Meanwhile the chassis and running gear can be blasted and you surely can paint that semi-gloss black your self.

What do you think of the paint? I tried sanding some areas down to find the original green, but in many cases, it sanded from the red, to white to reddish brown then metal. Strange that I could not sand down to green or find hood numbers, etc...

Actually your photos show exactly what you normally find on one of these. The 2430 OD (Olive Drab) is actually a greenish/brown to some people and to others a greenish gray.

buzzk · Post by **buzzk** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 5:41 pm

I would definitely restore it back to original to have a M 38 serial # below 20,000 is great The lowest # I ever had was 22,000 and something Little at a time is all it takes buzzz

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 6:15 pm

That low number is pretty cool. Im sure like most of us here, you have more time than money but you'd be surprised you can do on a budget. Get after it!
Welcome to the forum.

Brett

aforests · Post by **aforests** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 7:25 pm

Thanks for the comments! Wes, I took some Dot 3 brake fluid to the patent tag and it worked great, cleaned it up really nice. Too bad I didn't do that before... Live and learn I guess...

Would you guys recommend getting this back to 24 volt? Just looking for opinions... Let me know of the pros and cons...

Also, the only tag on the dash that is missing is the branch of service tag. I also haven't found any markings under the paint. Any other way to find out what branch of service this unit was from?

Post by **wesk** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 8:50 pm

Would you guys recommend getting this back to 24 volt? Just looking for opinions... Let me know of the pros and cons...

Since you are planning on a driver and it's already 12 volts and you are worried about cost I say make her look and run good. Enjoy her a while then decide on the next step.

I also haven't found any markings under the paint. Any other way to find out what branch of service this unit was from?

Tough day for sure. Do you have the doors? In the late 50's to early 60's a lot of registration numbers moved to the hardtop doors. Also look closely at the bumperettes.

aforests · Post by **aforests** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:44 pm

Tough day for sure. Do you have the doors? In the late 50's to early 60's a lot of registration numbers moved to the hardtop doors. Also look closely at the bumperettes.[/quote]

I do have the doors. I added a picture of the door registration tag. What do you think?

Post by **wesk** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 11:12 pm

That's the top's manufacturer's data plate.

Here's an Air Force version of your M38. Note how the registraion number is painted on the door.

BullRun · Post by **BullRun** » Sat Oct 11, 2014 8:00 am

That's a great vehicle for a restoration!

If you go with a mechanical restoration with no body work check the mounts were the body parts all mount to the frame to make sure everything is securely attached.

Here are two restoration approaches 1) dismantle the entire vehicle and put it back together piece by restored piece or 2) take one piece off at a time and restore each piece and set it on a shelf well protected. Save the engine for last. When you put it back together everything is basically ready to go.

Be prepared for 3 to 5 years of not being able to drive it. Maybe shorter if your really focused on it.

Keep the arctic top! Even if you switch to canvas having it will make your vehicle overall more valuable. Those straight windshields are getting harder to find.

Personally I would try to get it up and running with what you have got while not spending much to do it and enjoy it awhile before restoring it.

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Sat Oct 11, 2014 9:58 am

You've got a lot to work with there Aaron. Were I in your shoes I think I'd
do a complete service, fluids and all, clean it up, blow it out, adj points,
drop in a fresh battery, fire it up and drive it for the winter. While driving
her i'd find out and document what areas the old girl really needs
attention. As problems arise (yes they will) I'd be pulling and refurbing
problem subassys.. With this accumulated knowledge, certain assys already
refurb'd, problem areas ID'd I'd be miles ahead when I start my tear-down
resto..

This is exactly OPPOSITE of the route I took in my resto-i brought 'er
home, tore 'er down and worked on 'er for 3 years without ever having
driven 'er. At times the sum of the whole project seemed overwhelming..

Good Luck whatever route you take.

aforests · Post by **aforests** » Sat Oct 11, 2014 3:02 pm

Glad I am a pack rat. was digging in my old boxes and think I found most of the 24 volt items needed to revert this back at some point. I posted the picture in my album and am trying to post it on this message. see what happens...

[img]/Users/aaronkiesz/Pictures/iPhoto Library.photolibrary/Previews/2014/10/11/20141011-155309/1hTYrMfJT5iDHEcuMu6QbA/photo.jpg [img]

Post by **wesk** » Sat Oct 11, 2014 4:08 pm

Aaron,
Post all your data plate numbers for your electrical parts. Make, Model, Serial, ORD#'s. Close up photos of the data plates would be nice.

45auto · Post by **45auto** » Sat Oct 11, 2014 9:56 pm

Wow!!! You have an expensive pile of parts there!!!
You have everything there not only to go back to 24V but you also have all the early 24V parts that are expensive and hard to find.

If these parts are original to your M38, the date codes on everything will give you a very good time line of when your M38 came down the assembly line. Send Wes pictures of the data plates or post them and we can tell you the dates.

The only other parts you may need and may still be on your M38, is the double groove water pump and crankshaft pulley. Of course, you will need lights, gauges, wiring and the 3 lever light switch to round it all out. The later are available and easily found.