Joined: Oct 02, 2014 Posts: 1955 Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County
Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 5:07 pm Post subject:
And thank you Wes. I'm not alone in appreciating what you do here. It must be like herding cats....... _________________ Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51
“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3452 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 6:17 pm Post subject:
Ron,
Can't let you walk the plank alone. In the process of addressing
the specific question of a 12 volt sender I opened a can of worms.
I wrongly assumed it was germaine, but understand Wes'
point.
Joined: Oct 02, 2014 Posts: 1955 Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County
Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 9:31 pm Post subject:
Brian,
Appreciate that! Wes very cordially let us off the short end of the plank. I was just <badly> trying to add that it seems to me that with all the clear schematics available to us on these M38 jeeps and the vehicle being so versatile --- that basic electricity rules like Ohms Law (the relationship of volts, amps, resistance, and watts) might help better understand how things work. That, and a multi-meter, helps me anyway. I learned a long time ago that guessing or experimenting with electricity usually doesn't end well. Obey the Law, or else......
Lately I find myself thinking it'd be cheaper in the long run if I could just pay travel and per diem for a "tech assist visit" from guys like Wes or G740, or many others in this forum <including you> to come to SC for a week or so to jerk the knots out of my 1st ever jeep rookie rope....... there I go again......that's a topic for a different forum..... _________________ Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51
“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari
Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 7:52 am Post subject: Thanks for the post
Thanks for the post. I have been asking these questions of myself, am a rookie as well, so glad I joined up and can follow. Please post your final outcome. I have an M38a1 that was converted to 12v, and can't afford to bring it fully back, so will stick with the conversion. My gauges are also 24v, so the same delima. I did test the light switch with 12v on the bench, and it works fine. I put together a 12 v power supply so I can test before I ruin the wiring. Anyway, thanks.
DC, Keep in mind that the built in circuit breaker in your light switch will not give your light system the same protection it enjoyed under 24 volts. With 12 volts and the wattage/resistance of the 12 volt lamps you have changed the load a great deal. Plan on adding circuit protection in the form of separate fuses or circuit breakers for the various lighting circuits or at least a new properly rated fuse or circuit breaker in wire # 15.
The military went to 24V for several reasons. It meant lighter electric motors and wires. But it also meant increased voltage (read pressure here) to make things turn faster). This was bound to be the case just like the upgrade from 6 to 12 V over the early years. Trouble is as voltage goes up load or amperage/current flow is reduced. Now when you take this backwards and reduce voltage to 12 V then you are increasing the load or amperage/current flow which then requires heavier wires and higher amp rated fuses and circuit breakers. If you are using the military harness then you are in luck a bit as the Army used a much heavier gauge wire then needed. But with circuit protection devices you will have to calculate the new current draw / amperage/ load and select the correct size fuse. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
PM's really don't help share information with the group which is why most folks came to this forum to start with! _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Then why not just tell him here that your going to open a new thread on the light switch? At this point the discussion is still in the 24v to 12 V area. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 5:43 pm Post subject: Thanks
Thanks both of you for your reply, I can see this site will be extremely helpful in my project. Wes, I planned on installing a modern fuse box and running my circuits through that. The old harness has been farmerized much, and will need to be upgraded anyway. Also, thanks for using water terms as well. "Pressure". I have always thought of electricity as water flow, makes it much simpler for a fre fighter like me to understand. Like I say, wish I could afford to go back to 24v, but out of my budget at this point. If I find some solutions on gauges since that was the original post, I'll try to post that as well.
Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2016 11:12 pm Post subject: What about a 24v step-up on the fuel gauge
Thought this could be a KIS option for the original fuel gauge question. I have found a step-up converter that will convert 12v to 24v, usually in various amp ranges. If you know the amperage input for the fuel gauge, then a step-up converter could conceivably give you the 24v you need to run the gauge. I think I saw a 2 amp converter for around $10, and a 10 amp for around $15.
If someone measures that amperage coming to the gauge with 24 volts, that would be good to know.
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