Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 9:26 am Post subject: M38 Front Axle Universal - is this a problem?
Hi, I've uploaded some pictures to my gallery that show a groove in the cupped area that holds each ball. I'm hoping this doesn't mean the axles aren't usable. Before being stored in a barn, the jeep was towed about a 100 miles with the front hubs locked….. Front differential was burned up (gear oil reduced to tar, chipped teeth on the pinion). I don't know if that could have caused the grooves.
Depends on intended use of the jeep. Hard trail riding on serious long distance highway driving it's time to find a better set.
Around the neighborhood and occasional local car shows then perhaps a polishing of the sockets will do. If you are not a machinist take them to one and pay to have them cleaned up nicely. Make sure you get a new set of steel balls.
There are basically three axle types left today for you to choose from: The Bendix you have, the Rzeppa and the Cardan (Spicer). If you decide to replace make sure the end clearance regimen for that specific make joint is followed and the parts meant to be used with the spindle for that specific joint are used as well. The only advantage the Bendix and Rzeppa have over the Cardan is their turn limits are greater. The Cardan is the most modern and is the easiest to rebuild. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Thanks Wes. I'll be using the jeep regularly so I probably need to find axles. I can order the cardans so I'll probably go with that.
I've read some of the material and it seems like my bendix axles should have had shims installed behind the driving flange but there weren't any.
It's still not clear to me though whether there are two types of thrust washers (outer end of the axle/differential tube) - and old design and a new design? Do I need to change them out when I switch to the cardan?
There was an old and new version of all of them. TheWWII & very early CJ's had the axle tip threaded and it was retained with a nut. Later used a "C" clip or nothing. Just read the CJ manual carefully and follow the instructions that apply only to the Cardan joints. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Thanks Wes. I've confirmed I have the new style: no end nut, and the newer flanged thrust bearing in the spindle.
Now I'm trying to figure out if the snap ring will interfere with the old Cutlass 100 lockouts. It looks like there is relief inside the lockout for the snap ring but I don't have the measurements yet that I'll need to confirm.
Locking hubs came specific to early or late axles (threaded or un-threaded) so an axle type switch can cost a little extra if the locking hubs at hand aren't correct for the type. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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