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cabinfever Member
Joined: May 14, 2013 Posts: 201 Location: Between Crosslake and Emily, Minnesota
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Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 9:26 am Post subject: Question for those that trailer your Willys |
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I have decided to trailer my M38A1 to and from parades and shows rather than my usual practice of flat towing it.
The M38A1 was a wheel base of 6ft 9in (81") and an overall length of 11ft 7in (139").
I am considering a tandem axle flatbed trailer with a 12ft deck. My question is there any reason to consider a 14ft deck?
Any other trailer advice/recommendations would be appreciated.
Thanks! _________________ Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388
Member - MVPA #35153
Member - Red Bull Historic Military Vehicle Association |
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oilleaker1 Member
Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 972 Location: South Dakota
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Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 11:34 am Post subject: |
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Axle position of the trailer will mandate how much tongue weight you have if you can't move the Jeep front to back. Too little tongue weight will cause it to weave back and forth and be dangerous. I bought a 18 footer with a dove tail on the back for easier loading approach. I can move the Jeep until I get just the weight I need. I can also haul other longer vehicles with it. Dual axles are also better for safety reasons. 6 more feet of trailer isn't all that much over 12feet. John |
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45auto Moderator
Joined: Apr 06, 2005 Posts: 148 Location: Georgia
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Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 2:35 pm Post subject: Trailer |
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You will most likely get quite a few replies with all being different.
A few things to think about:
How are you going to strap down your Jeep?
With a 12 ft trailer, you will most likely need to run from the rear area of the jeep to somewhere under the rear axle and from the front bumper area to under the front axle to keep the jeep from rocking back and forth.
What other uses will the trailer see?
Is this the only trailer you going to have?
Is this trailer dedicated to just hauling your jeep?
I have a 18 ft trailer and it is too big and heavy for casual use. Like most, I bought as much as I could stand at the time. I have use all 18 ft but not often. I used a 14 ft trailer once to pick up my CJV-35 and it was "just right". It was a flat bed with hide away ramps, 13 inch tires and with a slight running go, we pushed the V-35 up on the trailer. If I was going to buy a trailer just to haul my jeep, I would look strongly at the 12 and 14 foot flat bed trailers with hide away ramps. I would get one that is light in overall weight with 3500lb axles with brakes with no less than 13 inch tires. Tire size would depend on how high your tow vehicle stands. Lower will benefit you in loading and travel as your jeep will be lower or the same height as the tow vehicle. I would also have HD tie downs installed where I needed them. Since I know how well a pintel hitch works, I would have the trailer set up with one along with a HD stand so I could unhitch from the trailer loaded if needed. If going with a regular ball hitch, get one that is much heaver built than what you find on a "boat trailer". You are going to have 2 plus tons behind you (depending on the weight of your trailer) and I would want something that could handle those pot holes and rough pavement that you sometimes just can't move over or have enough time to slow down to avoid damage. Pull a trailer long enough and far enough and the above is not a "what if".
Lastly, give some though to how you are going to strap down your jeep. I use 4 axle straps with 4 military ratchet straps that has locking hooks to keep the jeep from rocking and any movement from the springs doesn't affect how lose or tight the straps are. I also loop a grade 70 transport rated 5/16 chain from the pintel hook to the trailer to insure the jeep will not break free if I should ever be involved in a worst case accident. Chains work well, but are very unforgiving on paint and small parts! _________________ Harold W.
MVPA #6833
1945 GPW
1950 CJV-35/U
1951 M38 1952 M38
1962 USMC Contract M38A1
1953 Strick M100 1967 Johnson M416
1968 CJ5 4-Speed 1969 CJ5 V6 |
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OKCM38CDN Member
Joined: Feb 17, 2012 Posts: 530 Location: Del City, OK
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Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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I personally use a 16 foot utility trailer, I load the jeep (M-38CDN) then load my M-100 tounge down up under the jeep. This works for me... I would definitely go with a dual axle trailer, the stability it offers is of prime concern.
I have customized my trailer to meet my needs and it serves me well.
You will need to do the same, find what works for you and go from there. Do you plan on acquiring a trailer to go with your jeep, if do take that into consideration...
Good luck _________________ Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK |
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cabinfever Member
Joined: May 14, 2013 Posts: 201 Location: Between Crosslake and Emily, Minnesota
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 10:13 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the replies, I found them all very helpful.
I am now planning on a 14ft tamden axle flat bed with slide under ramps. (7000 lb GVW) The trailer I'm looking at has five stake holders on both sides to connect straps/chains to. It has a 2-3/8" ball hitch and has electric emergency brakes.
I plan to use the trailer for my M38A1 only and I do not plan on ever getting a MV trailer, so a 14' trailer should allow me enough room. With the jeep loaded to the front of the trailer, I should have sufficient tongue weight so fishtailing shouldn't be the problem.
I assume that I can strap the jeep by the four lifting shackles. Is that a correct assumption? _________________ Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388
Member - MVPA #35153
Member - Red Bull Historic Military Vehicle Association |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16260 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 10:18 am Post subject: |
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2 5/8" ball!
Yes the shackles will work for tying down.
One item not mentioned above is your towing vehicle. Look closely at the ratings of your truck (car won't work with these weights). Look closely at the condition of your hitch which should be a drawbar type hitch and not a bumper mount hitch. The first time you hook up add a scale under the hitch so you can see what loads are applied depending on position of jeep on trailer. You want to be in the middle of your desired range. Many trailers can result in exceeding tongue weight when you roll the jeep full forward on the trailer. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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cabinfever Member
Joined: May 14, 2013 Posts: 201 Location: Between Crosslake and Emily, Minnesota
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 11:05 am Post subject: |
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Thanks, Wes Yes, 2-5/8" ball
My tow vehicle is a GMC K1500 4WD crew cab with the 5.3L V8, 3.73 rear axle, and the trailering package. Gross towing weight is 7500 lbs.
I'll have to check on the max tongue weight. _________________ Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388
Member - MVPA #35153
Member - Red Bull Historic Military Vehicle Association |
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oilleaker1 Member
Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 972 Location: South Dakota
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 11:40 am Post subject: |
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Another consideration is sprung weight and unsprung weight when tieing down your Jeep. In other words the body and bumpers are sprung. The axle sitting on the tires is unsprung. What I do is attach my ratchet tie downs over the leaf springs behind and next to the axle on the front, and in front of the rear axle. You don't get the bounce you would at the bumpers. I also "X" the straps. My ratchet straps are 2 inches wide and have a woven protective sock over the strap to help against cuts and wear. Everyone works out their own successful formula. I once knew a guy who had a enclosed trailer to haul his MG to car shows. He had fixed metal loops attached to unsprung points. He'd drive into the trailer and stop with his wheels in pockets he fabbed into the floor. Then he would swing up turnbuckles and hook to his loops. No straps or ropes to mess with. He told me how his trailer broke free and went off into the ditch and overturned on it's side. With a sick heart, he opened the rear door to the trailer. There, sitting totally horizontal, was his MG, un harmed! Amazing! John |
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timjuhl Member
Joined: Jun 27, 2011 Posts: 262 Location: "Thumb" of Michigan
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 8:47 pm Post subject: Trailering |
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I use a 16 foot tandem trailer to haul my M38A1 although 14 would probably be fine. I think the best way to secure your Jeep is to pick up a pair of axle straps (a short length of heavy webbing with a D ring on each end), wrap a strap around each axle and use a 2 inch ratchet strap to attach the Jeep to the trailer from the front and rear. It will hold it much more securely than straps attached to the body.
For safety I attach additional straps to the pintle on the rear and one of the front tiedown rings. These are just snugged as the axle straps bear the main load.
I just came back from a 500 mile round trip that involved a couple of hard stops and two trips on a small car ferry and the Jeep rode just fine. I didn't need to re-tighten the ratchets on the axle straps at all.
Tim _________________ Tim Juhl
1952 M38A1
1946 Aeronca L16A Army Liaison Aircraft |
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cabinfever Member
Joined: May 14, 2013 Posts: 201 Location: Between Crosslake and Emily, Minnesota
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Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 10:46 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for all the recommendations. I now understand the importance of securing my jeep from the axles and/or leaf springs. The issue I am having with these methods is that it sounds like I'm going have to get under the jeep to run the straps over the axles or springs to do this. I will be trailering my jeep to parades and car shows and really don't want to get my semi-dress clothes all dirty from wiggling under my jeep to deal with the routing of the straps.
So, my new question is, does anyone have any experince with the use of tire bonnets/tire nets for securing their vehicle to a trailer. Seems like the use of these would have the same benefits as routing straps over the axles, but with less chance of getting my clothes all dirty.
_________________ Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388
Member - MVPA #35153
Member - Red Bull Historic Military Vehicle Association |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16260 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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They work. The illustration is misleading though. You must use the ratchet anchors on opposite sides of the wheel or one at the front and one at the back of each wheel. You will need 8 tie down rings spaced close enough to the four wheels to make that system work.
I really don't see how you are getting your clothes dirty when tieing the axles down. If you do it correctly yo never even climb up on the trailer let alone crawl around under the jeep.
You take the chain hook and toss it over each axle about midway. Grab the hook from the back side of the axle and pull it under the axle to a trailer side tiedown just forward of the jeep on the trailer and hook it up. Go back to the other side and and fasten that hook to the trailer side tiedown just forward of the axle. Now do the same at the rear of the trailer but tie the chain to the two tie downs just aft of the axle. Now install your chain binders.
I've tied jeeps down this way since the 70's and never lost one!
Note: On very bumpy roads I often screw down 4 12" 2x4's to the trailer deck just outboard of each tire to reduce lateral drift on the jeep. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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cabinfever Member
Joined: May 14, 2013 Posts: 201 Location: Between Crosslake and Emily, Minnesota
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Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2015 9:05 am Post subject: |
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Thanks, Wes. You are quite the illustrator and I appreciate the extra effort you provide in many of your answers!
For those of you who run straps around the axles (timjuhl, oilleaker1, Wes), I was wondering if either of the straps (front or rear) of your tie-down methods has the strap or chain cross over either of the brake lines? If so, wouldn't the pressure from the strap/chain potentially crush the line? _________________ Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388
Member - MVPA #35153
Member - Red Bull Historic Military Vehicle Association |
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Xamon Member
Joined: Sep 18, 2012 Posts: 589 Location: South East Saskatchewan
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ROBCDN3 Member
Joined: Mar 22, 2014 Posts: 75 Location: Simcoe Ontario Canada
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Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2015 11:00 am Post subject: |
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Hi. X . Post em seems to be lots of interest over time.
Cheers Rob |
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Xamon Member
Joined: Sep 18, 2012 Posts: 589 Location: South East Saskatchewan
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