Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 6:36 pm Post subject: Running very rich
Okay here we go. I bought a 1960 m38a1 and it was missing the correct spark plug wires so I replaced them and simultantiously rebuilt the distributer and replaced the coil with one from kaiser. I took my carb apart and while I was waiting for the rebuild kit my girlfriends dad knocked the carb off the fender and it bent the brass tube coming off the bottom of the carb. I had to file the bent part off. For the life of me I can't get it to run correctly without missing and making my eyes burn. Its got an electric fuel pump but I put a variable fuel regulator on it. Is this brass tube my problem and is it replaceable? Thanks in advance
Since you are new to the group I will first suggest you obtain the manuals for your jeep. They can be purchased in paperback from Portrayal press. If you wish we have all of them loaded here on our web site in PDF format. These are free. The link is at the top of this discussion "DOWNLOADS".
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Downloads
The issues you are having are well covered in these manuals. Keep in mind the YS637 used on the M38 is similar to the YS950 used on the M38A1 & M170. But the Army carb manual does not address the YS950. The principles are the same but you will need to use the attached spec sheet for the YS950 that I attached to the manual excerpts for the YS950 and the parts list & illustrations found in the M38A1's ORD 9. I sent you an email earlier with your membership info, a manual list and a survey form. Use that manual list to secure a good set of manuals.
If this is the tube you filed the bottom off you will need to find a replacement!
Got it for 125. I also ordered a new coil because my new "chrome" one didn't ohm that great when I first got it. Thanks guys I'll update it when I get the parts
When you get the new coil post your ohm readings for both coils. I'd like to see what a brand new coil ohms out compared to a suspect coil. The only published test for determining acceptable coil resistance was the amp draw check in the manuals and the Prestolite Spec sheets..
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