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Mikemc Member
Joined: Apr 15, 2017 Posts: 42
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Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2018 8:53 am Post subject: |
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You only have to try and start it once with a cylinder full of gasoline to cause a problem. |
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MarkR1951M38 Member
Joined: Aug 22, 2016 Posts: 117 Location: Huntsville, AL
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MarkR1951M38 Member
Joined: Aug 22, 2016 Posts: 117 Location: Huntsville, AL
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Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2018 2:32 pm Post subject: |
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Well I got around to checking the bearing clearance on the rod bearings. The average was .002-.003, none over .003. Since oil pan was off and I couldn't accomplish anything, I decided to drain the oil filter (civvy fram type) and the oil smelled of gasoline. I'm thinking the first carburetor I had was so rich that the oil got diluted so much that it was not lubricating enough. The bearings on the inside next to the crank journal had minor radial scores, but for a loose engine as the L134, I'm thinking it may be ok until later when I yank the engine for a trip to a machine shop.
I put in 10W40 instead of straight 30w and as soon as a new oil filter comes in I'll get-r-started again. I will drain again and go back to 30w afterwards. 10W40 in the 70-90 degree heat of Alabama may not be so bad.
Question: When you drain oil and change filter, do you prime the oil system again using a manual pump or will the oil pump hold enough oil to get it started and build up pressure? _________________ 1951 M38 MC 22731
(Converted 12v, Carter WO carb, single action fuel pump, electric wipers)
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album527&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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Ray101 Member
Joined: Jun 03, 2015 Posts: 41 Location: Forest Lake, MN
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Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2018 3:09 pm Post subject: |
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You shouldn't have to prime the oil sytem when you drain the oil and change the filter. _________________ 1950 M38 |
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Xamon Member
Joined: Sep 18, 2012 Posts: 589 Location: South East Saskatchewan
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MarkR1951M38 Member
Joined: Aug 22, 2016 Posts: 117 Location: Huntsville, AL
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Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2018 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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Status Update: Put in 10W40 oil, cranked it up and oil pressure immediately went to 40-40+ psi with no rod knock. Drove it around the neighborhood and let it warm up to operating temp and oil pressure started to drop. At an idle the oil pressure goes to 20 psi and if I let RPM drop too much I get rod knock...so I increased the idle speed stop and rod knock went away, but pressure stays at 20 psi. Sounds good now, but low pressure.
NOTE: I purchased a new tachometer and it was faulty so I don't know the RPM. Need to check the timing too...for a future day.
With oil pressure dropping at an idle when warm tells me that the main bearings are at the limit (no, I didn't check the mains ). Wintertime project will be to remove engine and send it to a machine shop (done screwing with it). In the mean time, I'm going to drain oil once more and put back in 30 wt. and see if I can get a 30 minute drive out of it.
Thanks to all who commented/suggested. _________________ 1951 M38 MC 22731
(Converted 12v, Carter WO carb, single action fuel pump, electric wipers)
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album527&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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bamaj Member
Joined: Sep 22, 2013 Posts: 107
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Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2018 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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A multi viscosity oil such as 10W 40 has no actual 40 weight oil in it it's a 10 weight oil this has had additives that are supposed to make a 10 weight oil act like a 40 weight oil when it gets up to operating temperature. With our older engines it's no surprise that you would have low oil pressure running a 10 weight oil. I also live in North Alabama and with the weather we have you could almost run a straight weight oil all year around in everything you own our winters being as warm as they normally are. Advanced carries a straight 30 and 40 weight oil that is branded as Napa oil. I prefer the Rotella T oils but it would be better than running a 10 weight oil. My 2 cents _________________ Jeff Loosier
M38A1 |
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MarkR1951M38 Member
Joined: Aug 22, 2016 Posts: 117 Location: Huntsville, AL
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Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2018 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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bamaj wrote: | A multi viscosity oil such as 10W 40 has no actual 40 weight oil in it it's a 10 weight oil this has had additives that are supposed to make a 10 weight oil act like a 40 weight oil when it gets up to operating temperature. With our older engines it's no surprise that you would have low oil pressure running a 10 weight oil. I also live in North Alabama and with the weather we have you could almost run a straight weight oil all year around in everything you own our winters being as warm as they normally are. Advanced carries a straight 30 and 40 weight oil that is branded as Napa oil. I prefer the Rotella T oils but it would be better than running a 10 weight oil. My 2 cents |
Good stuff Jeff...that's why I'm draining and going back to straight 30w from Advance Auto. Rotella is a diesel oil, isn't it?
BTW...where are you located? I'm in Huntsville. There is also another M38 guy just south of Huntsville. We need to hook up someday. _________________ 1951 M38 MC 22731
(Converted 12v, Carter WO carb, single action fuel pump, electric wipers)
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album527&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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bamaj Member
Joined: Sep 22, 2013 Posts: 107
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Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2018 8:28 pm Post subject: |
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It is a diesel oil but it is one of the last few oils that contains zddp which is an additive that was used after lead was removed from gas. It was introduced to help lubricate the valve train since the led was gone. Over the years with stricter spa regulations it has been removed from most all of not all of regular automotive oils. The only way I know you can still get it is either an additive or diesel oil. I haven't checked in a while but a few years ago Rotella T oil had a higher concentration than most other oils. I run it in everything I drive. I've not had a problem yet. Oh I live west of Huntsville in a little town called Town Creek over close to Muscle Shoals. I work in Huntsville every day. _________________ Jeff Loosier
M38A1 |
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MarkR1951M38 Member
Joined: Aug 22, 2016 Posts: 117 Location: Huntsville, AL
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Ray101 Member
Joined: Jun 03, 2015 Posts: 41 Location: Forest Lake, MN
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Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 9:55 am Post subject: |
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If you going to rework the engine this winter, you could run a 50wt racing oil to get a little more oil pressure when hot. _________________ 1950 M38 |
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bamaj Member
Joined: Sep 22, 2013 Posts: 107
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Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 10:12 am Post subject: |
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You can get it in a straight 30 or 40 weight oil. _________________ Jeff Loosier
M38A1 |
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MarkR1951M38 Member
Joined: Aug 22, 2016 Posts: 117 Location: Huntsville, AL
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Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 3:06 pm Post subject: |
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Well I drained the 10w40 out of the pan and filter canister and put in straight 30w. Immediately got a steady 40 PSI. Let it run about 20 minutes to get it warmed up, temp at 180, oil pressure never below 30 PSI...and no rod knock at an idle. I'm guessing the first 30w I put in may have actually been 10w30 which would have done the same as 10w40. Need to watch the details.
Oh, did I say...NO ROD KNOCK!!! Purrs like a kitten.
Thanks for all the help guys...you ROCK! _________________ 1951 M38 MC 22731
(Converted 12v, Carter WO carb, single action fuel pump, electric wipers)
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album527&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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bamaj Member
Joined: Sep 22, 2013 Posts: 107
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Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 3:27 pm Post subject: |
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Great to hear. _________________ Jeff Loosier
M38A1 |
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