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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Wheel bearing cup removal? M38
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Wheel bearing cup removal? M38

 
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Tembek
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Joined: Oct 20, 2014
Posts: 48
Location: Houston

PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 10:43 am    Post subject: Wheel bearing cup removal? M38 Reply with quote

This is my first front end rebuild so I'm learning…...

What's the best way to remove the wheel bearing cups from the front end flange/hub?

The cups are facing out and are the same diameter? so how do you get behind one to drive it out?

Does the "remover replacer" shown in the manual expand to fit one cup after passing through the opposite cup? If so, where can I get one?

Thanks for any help - my bearings are shot and the cups look worn - rats.

Jim
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16250
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exactly which model jeep do you have?

Exactly which part are you referring to?


"A" you can grasp tightly with a pair of channel lock pliers and wiggle while you pull or you can buy any commercial hub cap puller.





The really stubborn rusty ones may need a few taps on their sides with an 8 Oz. ballpeen hammer.












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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php


Last edited by wesk on Fri Apr 24, 2015 7:20 am; edited 1 time in total
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT

PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 4:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you talking about bearing races? Part EE?
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Brett
'51 M38
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
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Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the races / cups are the issue:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCQQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.stemco.com%2Ff%2Fqbin%2FBearing_Removal_Installation.pdf&ei=2UI6VYNvkLmhBNGkgcAC&usg=AFQjCNH5iCZFsMQbojeGN0MwbZ2Oufepog&bvm=bv.91427555,bs.1,d.b2w

http://www.triseal.com/old/techbullet/TMC_RP_622.pdf



Some folks prefer to tap in a progressive circle and some prefer to tap back & forth or side to side.

You need a tapered punch:



And it helps to keep a set of brass punches handy:






Always tell us what model jeep you are talking about. Sometimes the procedures are not the same for the M38 vs the M38A1 vs the M170 vs the CJV35 vs the M606 and etc. Also the manual references are usually different. You can make sure we always know which jeep you are discussing if you just add it to your signature block in your profile.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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Tembek
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Joined: Oct 20, 2014
Posts: 48
Location: Houston

PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi , thanks. It's an M38 (in the title of the post) and it's the bearing cups (fixed race). I was wondering if there was a better tool than a punch. Something that would expand once past one cup and engage the shoulder of the next cup.

Jim
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT

PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Too much hassle to come up with a special tool when you just need to pull the hub off and pound the races out.
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Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16250
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I was wondering if there was a better tool than a punch. Something that would expand once past one cup and engage the shoulder of the next cup.

There are many just open up your wallet!


From this simple to:















Just let your fingers do the walkin in the yellow pages! Wink
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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Tembek
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Joined: Oct 20, 2014
Posts: 48
Location: Houston

PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow Wes, that's amazing. I had no idea.

Jim
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16250
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just keep in mind that every time you drive one out cold you take metal out of the hub with the race. It pays to warm the hub before removal and installation and it pays to freeze the race before installation.

Use the TM 9-1804B and TM 9-8012. You will also find the civilian CJ service manual SM-1002 very useful and will usually find more info in it.



Just go to my photo album and download the chapter you need.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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arisLgr
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Joined: Dec 25, 2016
Posts: 110
Location: Athens, Greece

PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

YES!!!!! Thanks guys, I'm ready now to change the front hub bearings! Wes also the heat-cool trick is whow! Hope I can find all parts in Europe, US imports lately have become a hassle!
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Aris
Willys M38
1936 Cord Phaeton
1954 Mercury Monterey
1968 Corvette Stingray
1973 Mercedes 350SE
1974 Montesa Cota 247T
1982 Kubota B7100
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wesk
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would think the several Dutch dealers should have what you need. These jeeps were built under license in France, Holland and Spain.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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