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joebuck Member
Joined: Jul 16, 2013 Posts: 174 Location: oxford mississippi
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2020 9:37 am Post subject: 1952 m38 brake master cylinder question |
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I gave up on removing the master cap. I am afraid to heat it do to it being cast and don’t know it brake fluid is flammable. Main problem is getting a wrench or vice grips on it tight. Now thinking about unscrewing or trying to the brass vent bushing . But that will take some type of special wrench curved. Only access I have is through the hole in the floor board. Any more suggestions? _________________ 1952 M38
Last edited by joebuck on Wed Aug 26, 2020 9:00 am; edited 1 time in total |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16256 Location: Wisconsin
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joebuck Member
Joined: Jul 16, 2013 Posts: 174 Location: oxford mississippi
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2020 11:04 am Post subject: |
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[/img] _________________ 1952 M38 |
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joebuck Member
Joined: Jul 16, 2013 Posts: 174 Location: oxford mississippi
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2020 11:08 am Post subject: |
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I have the plate, i removed it. I wonder if i should clip the value line going to the air breather and plug the cap? It's going to be a bugger getting my hand back on that inline value nut. _________________ 1952 M38 |
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mdainsd Member
Joined: Oct 20, 2017 Posts: 444
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2020 11:35 am Post subject: |
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The cap must NOT be plugged, it has to have an opening to the atmosphere for the M/C to work properly. _________________ '52 Dodge M37, '42 GPW, '48 FrankenJeep CJ2A/M38, '50 CJV-35(U), '51 M38, '42 WC-57 Command Car, '44 WC-51 Weapons , (2) M1941 Sperry 60" Anti-Aircraft Searchlights, John Deere M-gator, '44 White M3A1 Scout Car |
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joebuck Member
Joined: Jul 16, 2013 Posts: 174 Location: oxford mississippi
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2020 11:36 am Post subject: |
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dang! _________________ 1952 M38 |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16256 Location: Wisconsin
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OKCM38CDN Member
Joined: Feb 17, 2012 Posts: 530 Location: Del City, OK
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2020 12:08 pm Post subject: |
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The line attached to the M/C cap is 3/16" vent line, you can remove the vent line from the elbow with a 3/8" wrench, use caution as it may be tight or corroded. Then the cap can be pulled off. It is a tight fit, but a little patience and it will be OK... remember to put the vent line back on after servicing the brakes... _________________ Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK |
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4x4M38 Member
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3447 Location: Texas Hill Country
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joebuck Member
Joined: Jul 16, 2013 Posts: 174 Location: oxford mississippi
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Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2020 7:08 am Post subject: |
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Thanks guys! I bought a 3/8" wrench and after some hours of letting Liquid wrench do it's job , the vent line was fairly easy to get off. But that master cylinder cap is a bugger to get off..cant budge it.. my have to put a cheetah bar on it _________________ 1952 M38 |
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joebuck Member
Joined: Jul 16, 2013 Posts: 174 Location: oxford mississippi
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Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2020 1:29 pm Post subject: |
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i was able to get the brass bushing off the top of cap. i gave up on the cap before i tore something up ! Got a funnel and hose and filled the cylinder to proper level and BAM i got brakes again!! i guess i never had them for last 8 years since i bought the jeep refurbished. They have alot of resistance and really stop the jeep about 1/2 stroke! thanks for the help _________________ 1952 M38 |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16256 Location: Wisconsin
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