It helps a lot when a builder uses a teardown inspection report sheet. They then list all discrepencies and write down all tolerance checks and their results. It would be nice to know how much clearance the cam journals have at each position. You can loose a lot there as well, especially on the center and aft since they have no bearings.. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Hi all I've been in Europe for a few days and been out of contact.
That is so brilliant!
I also bent over the wing and messed about with 90 begree bends and stuff. It never even crossed my mind to plumb it in there.
Well done mate for for showing me how it should be done.
And thanks Wes for explaining how measurements tapped off at this point can be used.
Cheers,
Dave.
Joined: Jun 14, 2006 Posts: 226 Location: Wijnegem Belgium Europe
Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 6:32 am Post subject:
Hi Dave, is everything arranged with the tailgate byer in Eeklo ?
Maybe interesting for Ken, we just started our rebuild cj3 engine in our 1942GPW project, The cj3a engine is± the same as a M38 engine. We put the tengine in the unrestored jeep to test the transmissions before dismantling and sandblasting everything.
oilpressure on idle, warm = 25-30 psi, while driving it stays on 45 psi ( pressure valve in pump opens ) with 10W40 mineral multigrade oil and
± 170 - 180 °F watertemp
our M38 shows about 30 psi on idle and full scale ( 60) while driving
I think the gauge is wrong, but the most important there is enough oilpressure
We had a chance to find a fresh rebuild spare engine from one of our clubmembers, the engine was rebuild in the past and kept as a spare one.
With some modifications on the frontplate (whole around camshaft and oil sprocket above the crankshaftgear) everything fits fine
Erik and Jeroen _________________ 1942 GPW 71336 my son's jeep restored now
1951 M38 MC11891
1953 VW beetle (genuine german Käfer )
1957 fantastic wife
According to the itemized parts list that I receive from the builder, in the cam bearings row it shows (1) in the quantity column, (could that be a set of bearings or one individual bearing ?) I don't know for sure.
A valve job was done,
All valves, guides, and springs were replaced.
Crankshaft was ground.
Block rebored
All pistons replaced
All rod bearings and journal bearings replaced
Oil pump replaced
Timing gear eplaced
Freeze plugs replaced _________________ Tropical Veteran
35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
Amateur Radio K5XOM
The cam has three journals but Willys only provided a bearing for the front one. The manual says to discard the block when the center or rear journal bores become excessively worn. Many folks have used modified Ford late small block cam bearings in the center and aft journal bores. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 8:31 am Post subject: oil pressure sender woes.
Inspired by Ken I went back to my engine to plug my gauge into a tee at the filter, I discovered that the gauge I was using was faulty and wouldn't read past 5psi which I had assumed was the actual pressure as the electric gauge was hardly reading 0. ie both systems appeared to back up each other.
Anyway, having discovered that the gauge was faulty I sent away for a new one.
When it arrived I screwed it into the oil pressure sender port and WOW! about 38/42 psi at idle. To check I took the pressure gauge from my compressor regulator and screwed that in, again 38/42 psi at the oil pressure sender port.
My problem is, I've fitted new senders, I've fitted new gauges and I hardly get a reading on the dash. I have bare metal to metal earths, I have extra earth straps between the tub/engine/chassis.
the wiring harness is new and there is no overspray or corrosion on any terminals.
I have a good wire from the spider harness to the gauge and #36 goes to the sender, the sender is screwed in nice and tight.
the gauges and senders work fine when I put them in my M35
I am at a loss to see where this is going wrong. I considering running a wire direct from the gauge panal to an chassis earth.
Unfortunately the fuel tank sender doesn't work so I can't compare that for fault finding.
Any ideas greatfully recieved.
Many thanks,
Dave.
Have you confirmed the sender and the gage match in accordance with operating pressure range, (0-60 or 0-120)? _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Dave, why don't you rig up the new gauge and new sender on a line from you air compresser. I know a lot of trouble since you already got it screwed to the block.
Connect the new sender to the 24volt gauge and properly wire it and ground both of them. This can be done on the bench with a 24volt power supply or under the vehicle hood using your batteries. I use wires with alligator clips for test wires. Makes the test easier.
See if you get any thing different doing that way.
And like Wes said make sure they are matched (sender and gauge).
I don't know how big the port hole is in your sender, but the one I have is very small I don't know the actual size. Keeps pulsation down. Maybe yours is plugged even though you say it is new.
Ken _________________ Tropical Veteran
35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
Amateur Radio K5XOM
I had a 300 six Ford F150 that was high time and had a ton of sludge. I went thru 4 or 5 brand new senders that quickly plugged up before I finally pulled the engine.
Sludge or just plain trash can plug a gallery or port easily. This is another reason to always run your test gage connections from the same gallery/port the sender is in. If the reading is still incorrect then move your test gage to another location in the oil system to confirm the results. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
yeah, may-be I didn't make that clear.
for both the manual gauge and the m series electric sender I'm using the normal sender hole in the side of the block. I am using 120 psi senders and 120 psi gauges, however the reason I switched from the 60psi gauge and 60 psi sender was the strangly very low readings.
I should also have said that I used that trouble shooting guide a while ago and it confirmed that my gauge and sender were working fine. That's why I'm so snookered by this.
It doesn't really matter anymore as the jeep is about to be taken to bits to fit the new engine, duel brakes, winch, overdrive etc, I was just trying one last time to get on top of this problem before I tore everything down
I'll try that suggestion Ken.
I have considered running separate wires outside the loom to see if that changed anything.
Thanks,
Dave.
Now that I've been out and checked all the holes in my M series senders are the same size and they look slightly smaller than the holes in my threaded bit of the manual gauge.
The only comment I can make about the m series senders is; 2 (new) have an L shaped wire in the sender hole and the other 2 (1 original to the jeep and one off my M35/A2) have a straight bit of wire centred in the hole. Does that make any differance?
Tomorrow if it warms up and the wind drops I'll try Ken's bench test idea,
I'm wondering does the sender clamp form part of the earth circuit? at the sender, could say oil glaze on the elbow into the engine form a bad earth?
Clutching at straws here chaps!
So apart from the earthing via the threads into the block it might help if I give the clamp and the stud in the bell housing a good clean and get back to some metal to metal?
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