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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - M38 Solid State Voltage regulator and Voltmeter
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M38 Solid State Voltage regulator and Voltmeter

 
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qualityhardware
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Joined: Apr 01, 2006
Posts: 52

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 7:02 am    Post subject: M38 Solid State Voltage regulator and Voltmeter Reply with quote

Which wire plugs into the Volmeter, #8 or #9?

My Volmeter has a Douglas connector for the wire in and the tradition screw and nut for another wire. Is this for a ground wire?
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OKCM38CDN
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neither, you tap the spider harness for the voltmeter to ground...

Wires 8 & 9 are for the ammeter and used with the old style voltage regulator. If using the Solid state regulator the ammeter is changed out for the voltmeter...

BTW, tap up the wires 8 & 9 to prevent shorts under the dash...

Hope this helps...
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qualityhardware
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Joined: Apr 01, 2006
Posts: 52

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big help. Glad I checked in....
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16256
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those old wires # 8 & 9 are connected to an ammeter shunt internally in the mechanical regulator. There's no shunt in the transistorized regulator where they are still connected in series.

You want to take your existing 4 wire instrument power harness and replace it with an M series 5 wire spider. Saturn surplus and Midwest military used to have them. Then you can attach the positive 24 volt Douglas connector to this spider's extra lead. The stud is for your ground wire. It pays to set-up a good grounding system for the instrument cluster. One way is to use a stud on the cluster and ground each instrument to it. Then install a ground stud on the firewall or cowl batter box support and conect a ground wire from your instrument cluster stud to it.

http://img.mypicgallery.com/willysmcelectrical/early-vs-late.jpg[img][/img]

This is your original regulator wiring:


This is your transistor unit.

As you can see all four pins on the chassis connector are wired together. So 8 & 9 will always be hot so long as the batteries are connected. This is why they need to be made safe. The safest way to do this is to remove them completely from the chassis connector. This makes it tough to convert back to mechanical regulator later. So you could just tape them up or connect them together.
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45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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qualityhardware
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Joined: Apr 01, 2006
Posts: 52

PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 12:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wes,

You are the man. Thanks for the info.
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