Thanks wes... that diagram is making more sense...
Heres is a pic of gas in manifold after it was dry and I trired to crank it. Tried a couple of tries then pulled off carb and this is how much gas was in it.....
is this excessive? If so then that excessive fuel is entering in one of two spots? the passage or economizer?
Those photo links are a pita for most folks. Unless you have a photo file on a photo hosting site that is open to public viewing the photos cannot be linked to appear in your posts on our web site.
It's a lot easier to just add you an album here on our web site:
I loaded your fuel in intake photo to your new album and here is how easy it is to link it to this post.
The problems you are researching are extremely rare and we still have not heard you comment on the results of more simple troubleshooting. IE is your bowl vent open (unblocked)? Are you feeding air under pressure to your bowl vent? (This can happen when you connect the vent line to a pickup tube facing the wrong way in the crossover pipe) Have you inspected carefully for any cracks between the bowl and the venturi? What height is your float adjusted to? What exactly is your fuel pump output pressure? Do you have the correct metering rod? Do you have the correct metering rod spring? Is your metering rod spring correctly positioned? (the illustration in TM 9-1826A is in error). These are just a few of the questions that must be answered along the troubleshooting line. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
thanks a ton Wes for album i will be a good steward!
Here are the answer to trouble shooting.
IE is your bowl vent open (unblocked)? Are you feeding air under pressure to your bowl vent?
Bowl vent is unblocked. Am not sending air under pressure, i think. set up is same it has been since i bought vehical 8 yrs ago.
Have you inspected carefully for any cracks between the bowl and the venturi?
Yes.. i have even filled bowl up with gas and observed with air horn off. no leaks.
What height is your float adjusted to?
Yes , 1/4" gap between float edge and base of air horn upside down. Float has been replaced as well as the needle and value. Needle does open and close fuel supply with float movement.
What exactly is your fuel pump output pressure?
Unknown but original fuel pump. no work down on it by me. There was a fuel filter installed by first shade tree mechanic between carb and fuel pump.
Do you have the correct metering rod?
I used the original metering rod on my rebuid with the new bladder gasket.
Do you have the correct metering rod spring?
Yes, it was bought with the rebuild kit. Ironically it was discovered it never had a SPRING from previous owner......no gas leak between bladder and cap. Air vent in cap clean
Is your metering rod spring correctly positioned? (the illustration in TM 9-1826A is in error).
Yes. it is between the bladder gasket and the cap.
i noticed when i filled up my bowl with airhorn off, the high speed passage c beside it that metering rod pumps from , filled up too from bowl? The bleeder tube has same level of gas in it as the bowl level when i poured gas in the bowl. Is that normal. _________________ 1952 M38
When troubleshooting it is best to not skip anything. A decent vacuum/pressure gauge is required for any serious vehicle maintenance. Buy one and check the fuel pump pressure. You may have a stuck valve in the pump and the pressure may be high enough to force the needle off it's seat in the carb.
Have you checked your heat riser. If it is stuck open then immediately after shut down it will perculate / boil the fuel out of the bowl and into the manifold.
That bowl air vent, did you actually disconnect the tube and blow thru it towards the induction crossover pipe to confirm no restriction? Did you blow thru the vent into the bowl to confirm no blockage? Did you remove the rubber duct between the crossover tube and the air cleaner and verify the fitting the vent line connects to is clear. I have seen spider webs and mice nests that will allow you to blow thru from the bowl vent line but stay hanging in front of the tube and then plug it when the engine is running. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
"the roar that was heard across the MS Delta at 10:30 friday night !!!"
There was one key situation that got me thinking electrical. I could not get the plugs to fire......so i put the jeep on a trailer and hauled it down a bumpy country road to shade tree....he got plug to fire and cranked it briefly then he said it flooded out....and he gave up......
Both shade tree mechanic kept saying Carb and flooding... maybe so? But i know i got NO spark parked at my deer camp....
Bumpy road, did the road shake the elecrical connection back on? then off?/
I just rebuilt the carb and combed over every part replacement and felt it was solid..even found a couple parts missing in old.....discharge ball and weight and metering rod spring missing...adjusted float height correctly and idle screw....... thought carb was solid rebuild on my part
so i worked on electrical side....bought new ground to jeep frame wire..older one had been jimmy rigged from previous owner /rebuilder.......distributor high voltage wire from starter had alot of electrical tape on its where two wires had joined. so bought new wire and reconnect wire with waterproof solder connection shrink tube thing... bought new plugs gapped correctly....replaced condensor.....and replced points with correct gap.....theroy here was, probably threw a little too much $$ at certain small parts I didnt need but i am not schooled enough on how to test if they work. Goal here was to get FIRE to plugs! ignite some gas at least...
got everything together and replaced around 10:30pm at deer camp and turned her over... trottle screw was not adjusted properly from years of tweaking....and ROOOOAAARRRR that rascal hit off and sounded great. Drove it all weekend and burned 13 gallons of gas and hauled two bucks out of the muddy woods... Absolutely runs awesome i am so pumped up...thanks wes and everyone for the help... gosh i sort of feel like a mechanic....well maybe not...but its a great feeling to fix your stuff others wouldnt _________________ 1952 M38
Now that you posted this it reminded me of a long forgotten issue I had with a Power Wagon (back in the 70s). Starts sometimes but doesn't sometimes. I, like you, tried everything to no avail. I was ready to pull my hair out, literally.
Finally started re-wiring as a last resort. The darned low voltage lead between the distributor and the coil had been cut at some time. It was only stripped back and twisted together with some electrical tape over the joint. Grease and oil had gotten in there over the years and the connection was problematic at best. Replaced that wire and it was a new truck.
I must have remembered something about it, because to this day any wiring I do has ZERO splices and every terminal is crimped, soldered and covered with adhesive heat shrink. _________________ '52 Dodge M37, '42 GPW, '48 FrankenJeep CJ2A/M38, '50 CJV-35(U), '51 M38, '42 WC-57 Command Car, '44 WC-51 Weapons , (2) M1941 Sperry 60" Anti-Aircraft Searchlights, John Deere M-gator, '44 White M3A1 Scout Car
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