Head gasket leak

Post by **Ryan_Miller** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 7:24 pm

Hey,

I have run my engine about 6 times for about 5 to 15 minutes each. I noticed today that the head gasket has just a little bit of moisture around the edge (at the block to head surface around the edge).
No leaks at the head studs.

The engine was rebuilt with the block decked and the head planned. I put in new engine head studs from Army Jeep Parts that are not supposed to stretch. Head studs were torqued in sequence per the manual.

I also have noted a small gasket leak on the top of the water pump at the engine block - just a drop that sits there. Some days it is not there and some days that drop will be there. Water pump was rebuilt and is not leaking, just the gasket at the block.

Should I retorque the head?

Should I replace the water pump gasket?

Fubar · Post by **Fubar** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 6:31 am

Ryan,
Is the leak around the entire perimeter of the head or just in one spot? I've had a tiny weep(single drop over a period of time) of coolant in one spot on a new headgasket before and under continued use it "healed" itself. Same on the water neck gasket.

If this was my worry I'd just run it a while, maybe an hour and see what happens as long as your not gushing fluids. I'd give the engine a chance to warm up real good and let everything seat itself.

Just my two centavos.

Post by **Ryan_Miller** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 8:15 am

Mike,

I am thinking that may be what I need to do.
Joel Gopan told me I should retorque the head per sequence order and proper ft/pds fter initial 30 min warm up of the engine.
Seems like I remember that from some others who ran freshly rebuilt engines several years ago.

I am probably going to wait a little on the water pump gasket.

The head gasket is a little moisture several areas around the gasket, possibly uniformly, you know how moisture travels so it is difficult to tell.

The water pump gasket is just in one place on the top, just a bead of sweat so to speak.

I will be able to retorque the head later this week. Will keep you posted.

Cacti_Ken · Post by **Cacti_Ken** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 3:39 pm

I would run/drive it for a while. It will probably stop seeping. I had the same seeping in a few places too, They eventually stopped.

Cacti_Ken · Post by **Cacti_Ken** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 3:50 pm

Looks like you got your answer from some experts on the G. Hope it turns out good.

Post by **Ryan_Miller** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 4:01 pm

Yeah,

I got several opinions on head retorquing.

I guess I am going to run it up close to temp and then let it cool off a bit (warm to the touch) and then retorque them.

Any other ideas?

Post by **wesk** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 10:40 pm

The military manuals never mention any re-torque let alone any reference to temp.

All the civvy manuals say to run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature and then re-torque. No cool down instructions anywhere.

The upper level engineering aspects offered on the G can actually be ignored. Those computations if serious would also give cause for a different torque value for the bolts that go thru the lifting steel plate.

The manufacturer decides what initial torque values will be for his product and what they are based on. In reality all engine torques are based on providing the correct fastener tension when the engine reaches normal operating temps. When a manufacturer tells you to set an initial torque, then bring the engine to operating temperature and then torque again he means exactly what he said and he wants you to do that so from that point on whenever the engine is at normal operating temps the fasteners will have the tension the manufacturer wants them to have.

By the time I take her for a 30 minute warmup ride, park it, open her up, get my tools out, set the torque wrench and start re-torquing the only thing that will burn you are the spark plugs and the exhaust manifold.