Remote brake switch

davem201m38 · Post by **davem201m38** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 4:34 am

Ok, the replacement of my original brake master cylinder with a slightly more modern duel circuit one is getting under way.

Because I'm keeping my deep water fording exhaust and will have the PTO shaft running forward to the winch I'm using banjo bolts to divert the brake pipes from the side ports on the master cylinder to hopefully give me a little more room.

This will also get rid of the tight bend in the brake pipes which I never like to have.

Problem is, doing this I will have to find another way to mount the original 24v 2 pin Douglas brake sensor switch.

My plan is to have a T in the front brake line along the chassis, in the fuel pump area and mount the brake switch on the spur of the T.

Can anybody think of an alternative?
Do people think this will work?

Thanks,
Dave.

oilleaker1 · Post by **oilleaker1** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 6:44 am

I put a PTO winch on my CJ3A and had to re-vamp the stock exhaust route. Unless you install a midway pillow block bearing in the forward PTO shaft along with another U-joint, you have to lose the heat shield and worry about the front axle coming up and bending the PTO shaft. Are you able to find a banjo bolt and Y that bolts to the front of the master? If so, a brass inverted flare T with one threaded for the switch should work fine. My English cars have that same set-up. The forward PTO shaft just clears the drag link also. Is there such a thing as a stock winch mount and shaft for the Jeep you are working on that has the engineering for fit done? That PTO shaft opens up a large can of worms.

Post by **wesk** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 7:35 am

The correct winch and PTO set-up for the M38/M38A1 is the Ramsey 50 with the 105 PTO. When this set-up is used with the stock M38 or M38A1 exhaust there are no interference issues.

When you add the dual master cylinder I would drop the hydraulic actuated switch and go to a proximity switch for the brake pedal just like modern cars. This switch will be a normally open switch that rests against the pedal arm when brakes are released. When you press the pedal the tension against the switch plunger is released and the switch contacts close lighting the brake lamps.

davem201m38 · Post by **davem201m38** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 12:38 pm

Here's a picture (I know you know what it looks like, but a picture is worth a thousand words)

I need the banjo bolts, the vendor can supply me with the banjos but by the time they get to the UK with UK taxes and import duty and postage the 2 banjos will cost about $70 ish

Can anybody surgest a thread size for these banjos, they'll be hydraulic parts the internal diameter of the ports is 0.446 inches. So I guess that's 1/4 straight something ?, certainley nothing on my parts shelf in BSP or metric fits. So 5/8 UNC ? thread. I really have no idea here.

And the parts book is a bit hard for a limey like me to interpret. Do the fittings on the brake pipes, 3/8 24NF equate to 3/8 internal diameter, 24 threads to the inch, Unified? National Fine ??

Thanks,
Dave

davem201m38 · Post by **davem201m38** » Wed Jun 17, 2009 7:03 am

I gave in. I've ordered the kit, 2 banjos, 4 washers, 2 fittings from the vendor in the States.

The kids will just have to go without food this weekend so pay our prime minister his import taxes and V.A.T., so he can pay his corrupt government their 'expenses'
Dave.

Post by **Ryan_Miller** » Wed Jun 17, 2009 7:46 pm

3/8 diameter and 24 threads per inch national fine.

I bet you can modify that MS with a bracket to fit the M38.

Very interesting project.

davem201m38 · Post by **davem201m38** » Thu Jun 18, 2009 12:36 am

Oh it's a simple fit, the braketry came with the MS.
The problem is fitting the plumbing and space with the PTO and everything.

And threads, what's common your side of the pond is un-common this side.

So simple things become very complex and time consuming.

davem201m38 · Post by **davem201m38** » Thu Jun 18, 2009 2:06 am

Ryan,
I forgot to explain another part of the problem.

I could sort this easily by just throwing money at it and odering all the parts from the US but, 2 banjo bolts that if I new the threads and the name of the fittings etc I could probably pick up $10 - $15 dollars here at a hydraulics shop, become a silly amount of moeny by the time I get them from the US, i.e.

2 banjos and fittings $30
Postage $13
Import Duty $16
Handling charge $16
Value added Tax @ 17.5% on the total $11.12

Total for 2 banjo bolts $86.12

My hope is that sometimes small packages for relatively small amounts sometimes slip under the radar and are delivered dirct.

And that doesn't include the 50 mile round trip drive to the 'special' importing post office hub where they handle and collect the tax, because for some odd reason they won't deliver and collect the tax at the delivery address.

Why do I need thread sizes? This is beacause where I live used to be a mining/steel working area but with (Think Pittsburgh) the demise of these industries means the demise of the support industries, and the irreplacable skilled staff. So the days of walking into a local hydraulics shops and saying, 'Can you match this thread with a T , coupling, inverted flare connector etc are long gone.

All the best,
Dave.

Post by **Ryan_Miller** » Thu Jun 18, 2009 6:52 pm

Hey,

Let us know if you need more information. If needed I can mail some small stuff to you if it is unavailable in your area.