Looked at the TM and from what it looks like I have to remove the brake master cylinder and the floor pan. Does this sound right?
Any tips?
So whats involved in removing the ross steering box?
- linx310
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- wesk
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If you are going to go thru the gearbox then you may as well go thru the column and wheel. Remove the wheel, unfasten the dash bolted bracket, floor plates, horn wire and gear box and remove the whole thing out the bottom.
Then using your TM 9-8015-2 rebuild it all.
Then using your TM 9-8015-2 rebuild it all.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- maeserik
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I think I read somewhere when the pitman arm is removed, and the brake pedal together with the floor plates is removed you can pull the whole steeringgearbox up out the jeep, no need to jack the jeep up.
This was for a M38
Is it also possible to rebuild the steeringgeearbox when it is still in the jeep, only by removing the left fender ?
Erik
This was for a M38
Is it also possible to rebuild the steeringgeearbox when it is still in the jeep, only by removing the left fender ?
Erik
1942 GPW 71336 my son's jeep restored now
1951 M38 MC11891
1953 VW beetle (genuine german Käfer )
1957 fantastic wife
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showgal ... p?cat=1865
and this webside
1951 M38 MC11891
1953 VW beetle (genuine german Käfer )
1957 fantastic wife
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showgal ... p?cat=1865
and this webside
- wesk
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My own personal feelings are that rebuilding the steering gear box in the frame is much like changing a rear crankshaft seal with the engine in the jeep. Yes it can be done. Without a lift it becomes a dirty uncomfortable and impossible to keep very clean work area. Having the work in front of you on a stand or work bench at a comfortable height with good lighting makes for a overal better product.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- 53a1
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I removed the floor cover, pitman arm from drag link, steering column bracket (under dash), bolts that hold steering box to frame and perhaps some other things I forgot.
I chose to remove my steering wheel before anything but I think you can get the box out w/o doing so through the top. You may as well if you plan on taking the box appart. (see the post on steering wheel removal posted this month)
Then the box is easy to work on. Use a puller on the pitman. Buy a new sector, worm & shaft and a rebuild kit.
It's real basic and in my mind thats why jeeps are fun to work on.
I chose to remove my steering wheel before anything but I think you can get the box out w/o doing so through the top. You may as well if you plan on taking the box appart. (see the post on steering wheel removal posted this month)
Then the box is easy to work on. Use a puller on the pitman. Buy a new sector, worm & shaft and a rebuild kit.
It's real basic and in my mind thats why jeeps are fun to work on.
- idiocrates
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If you are planning on doing a complete overhaul including top and bottom ball bearings and races and sector shaft bearings and seals I would HIGHly recommend removal of the gear box from the vehicle.....and really.....the inverse is just as revelvent.....if you are going to remove the gear box....why not do a complete overhaul to it while its out. Of course, I'm no expert.....I've done....let's see.....ONE.....but I am one fast learner. For one thing, my pittman arm wouldn't come off with just a puller.....I had to heat it up with a torch as well.....and just between you and me.......me and that torch need to stay as far away from the vehicle as possible when its lit. Secondly.....there is an inside and outside brass bushing in the pittman arm passage........both of mine were still good but if they hadn't been I'd have been hard pressed to get the hydraulic press in there to press the bearings in.....get it.....hard pressed??? hehehe.....Anyway.....simplify your life......do the overhaul on the bench.....that way you can save all your really valuable time for things like chasing down the little ball bearings!!! Oh yeah....and incidentally.....IF your pittman arm and shaft are not both clearly marked with an alignment mark (one on the shaft and one on the arm) be sure to do so with a file or chisel prior to seperating the two. Good luck!!
Jim
Jim