Lube on pressure plate?

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:39 pm

Hello folks.

Do the pressure plate pivot points get any lube or is to too risky? Also, what is that super sticky grease and is that good for the fork pivot ball and pilot?

Can someone please sum up all the points inside the clutch housing that need lube and type of lube before I button it up?

Thanks!

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 5:32 pm

C'Mon I know you guys have done a clutch job.

Cacti_Ken · Post by **Cacti_Ken** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 9:45 pm

I wouldn't put any grease on the pressure plate components.

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:38 pm

That what the guy at NAPA said also. Thanks.

Post by **wesk** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 11:30 pm

The fulcrum and ball on the release fork gets a dab of thick grease and the pilot bushing in the flywheel gets soaked in engine oil (you should be installing a new pilot bushing with the new clutch). The release bearing is a sealed unit but the collar can get a very light coat of grease where the fork runs against it. The flywheel face, pressure plate and clutch disc must be oil & grease free.

Some new clutch and pressure plate sets come with a clear protective sealant on them and this must be removed from the friction faces or a chattering clutch will be your fate.

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:00 pm

Thanks guys.

Contrary to our elected officials belief, I'm not a total idiot and realize the disc faces don't get lube but I was thinking the fingers that the throw out bearing actuates may get some. Based on everyones input I'm going to run it dry.

The pilot bearing is new, soaked in oil and honed to size and I put a dab of grease on it. I cross sanded the flywheel to scuff it up and sprayed down the clutch driven plate with carb cleaner to remove rust and oil.

Post by **wesk** » Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:33 pm

I didn't see anyone call you an idiot?

Apparently you are putting used clutch back in. I don't like pulling the jeep engines any more than absolutely necessary so I will pay the price of a new disc instead of tempting the need to remove the engine again just a short while later. This is especially true of an oil soaked disc. Brake cleaner does not remove all the oil. When the clutch disc heats up in use it will blead more oil to the surface. This leads to more slippage and surface glazing.

The metal friction surfaces should be clean and reasonably smooth. Cross sanding is not good for two reasons. It leaves silica deposits embedded in the scratches and it accelerates disc wear. Both the pressure plate and flywheel should be resurfaced on a surface grinding machine to maintain a trueness (runout) within limits. Otherwise the risk of excessive clutch chatter and wear may leave you pulling it all apart again in a short time.

chuck · Post by **chuck** » Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:24 pm

Hi Wes,
I might be doing a clutch job soon on my M38.I was reading in the book of Moses Ludel that a 9.25 clutch is a recommended upgrade while the whole thing is apart anyway.What do you think?
Thanks
Chuck

Post by **wesk** » Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:39 pm

Yes it is a good idea but you'll need the larger diameter set of holes in your flywheel for the larger clutch.

chuck · Post by **chuck** » Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:50 pm

Is there a better type pressure plate to use than the stock replacements that the mil. parts dealers are selling? I'm talking a 8.50 set up. Do you have a NAPA #?

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:30 pm

Your right Wes our Congress doesn't call me an idiot they just treat me like one.

I wasn't referring to you just a rant after watching the news.

Anyway, thanks again folks.

skyjeep50 · Post by **skyjeep50** » Sat Mar 06, 2010 9:30 am

I just installed a new clutch kit on my M38 engine - the pivot points on the new clutch assembly appeared to be pre-greased with a small dab of some heavy black stuff. Additionally, the maintenance manual for CJ2A and 3A calls for a dab of heavy grease in the socket of the flywheel where the nose of the transmission input shaft fits. I also put a very, very light coating of grease on the input shaft splines to help slip things together. Certainly not enought to sling off and cause problems.