cooling system rust

kz · Post by kz » Mon Jun 07, 2010 7:33 pm

I've got a water jacket FULL of loose rust. I tried running it with the upper hose disconnected and garden hose filling the rad. Not good enough . When it sits for an extended time, the coolant becomes clear, so it's kinda heavy and likes the bottom. I'm trying to get out of removing the pump at this time, because I'm beginning to believe the engine doesn't need a re-build. But I hate to run it with water so rusty I can't see the big red arrow of the anti-freeze tester! I'm afraid I'll ruin a good pump seal or bearing. 2 knuckleheads are trying to convince me to fill it with CLR mixture or a mix of muratic acid and water, with the radiator disconnected, but I'm chicken. I like to find a knowledgable person instead of making my baby a ginea pig. Any ideas besides hard work? The thermostat is out, think the rust might be the retainer. It's so full of rust it gets warm anyway. Suggestions?

MODIFIED · Post by **MODIFIED** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 7:52 pm

I too am in a similar position with my build. I have the rad disconnected and trying to find a viable option to de-smut the core safely as Good rad shops that provide dipping service where I live are scarce.
I also request, should anyone willingly provide procedural detail to correctly "Back-flushing" the cooling system. I've never done this before on a f-134 and info on correctly doing this is scant at best (I dont see how one can use those Prestone backflush kits with a motor setup that possess no separate heater core system). The get the general idea, but I'm worried as well and share kz's grief and concern.

kz · Post by kz » Mon Jun 07, 2010 8:05 pm

Since I signed out, it occured to me that I have a pressure washer sitting here doing nothing. It's not that powerful and if I break down and remove the pump I could scrape and blast my way to a new clean. I was told by an old-timer that some rad shops had a procedure where they would hook to your engine and flush it with the same stuff they did rads in and it was hot too! I'm gonna check with the local antique auto rad and repair/ restore shop to see if it's still done. MODIFIED, I sugget you move to a better part of the country , like Hillbillyland!

MODIFIED · Post by **MODIFIED** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 8:11 pm

ah yes, would be nice to have sprawling majestic backyard full of projects yet to be done in this lifetime. Nah, I like Brooklyn

53a1 · Post by **53a1** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 8:27 pm

When I changed my freeze plugs I flushed mine out with the hose. There was a lot of crap at the bottom of the block and I helped it out with a wire hanger and my finger. I would alternate freeze plug holes with the hose and then go in through the thermo housing.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 9:05 pm

Forward and Reverse flushing under pressure is the way.

There is a flushing kit available that allows you to connect an air hose to your water hose and then connect your water hose to the the upper or lower radiator hose and you allow the water to flow for a few moments then hit the air trigger to force the water to move rapidly suddenly. This is repeated over and over and from both forward and reverse flow directions until the exiting water is reasonably clear.

I was taught this procedure when I was 14 years old working summers in a City Service Gas Station. It has worked for me over 45 years.

MODIFIED · Post by **MODIFIED** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 9:24 pm

Hi Wes, have you any suggestions or can you post a link as to where one might find this connector for an air hose?

STXM38A1 · Post by **STXM38A1** » Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:43 am

Mr. MOD:

During my perpetual M38A1 project I've used a product called Evapo-Rust for general rust removal and it works very well. There is an Evapo-Rust product for cooling system cleaning. I have not tried it (yet) and haven't seen the product on local (San Antonio area) store shelves, but have seen it on the web. Here's a link to it.

http://www.orisonmarketing.com/corrosio ... ercsc.html

Maybe someone who has tried it can comment. Good luck.

Warren[/url]

Post by **wesk** » Tue Jun 08, 2010 3:31 pm

You can fabricate one using standard plumbing hardware so you have water flowing straight thru the "T" all the time it's valve is open and a triggervalve on the air side of the "T" to unleash the 60 or 70 pounds of air pressure behind the water intermittently.

There are many garage help sites that tell how.
http://www.waybuilder.net/sweethaven/Me ... 2&modNum=1
http://www.garage411.com/CoolingSystem
http://www.familycar.com/classroom/coolingsystem.htm

There are fancy shop setups:
http://www.asedeals.com/FlushUnit2.html

And simple guns:
http://www.sweethaven02.com/Automotive01/fig0614.gif
http://www.sweethaven02.com/Automotive01/fig0615.gif

https://www.miltonindustries.com/uploads/Pages_6-7.pdf
Bottom of page.

Using this patents page. You can download the PDF of the Patent with illustrations. Also you can open the 8 associated Patents and download the PDF copy of each of them.