1952 M38 Markings

magnum · Post by **magnum** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 8:58 am

I have a 1952 M38 which is nearing completion on the restoration. The serial number is 59383. Just was wondering how to identify which unit and/or group it was in and maybe some history behind it. If anyone can help, I would appreciate it.

Thanks

Post by **wesk** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 2:56 am

This is one of the most often asked questions in this hobby.

Since the military retained and destroyed their wheeled vehicle record when their vehicles were declared "excess to their needs" (surplussed out) , there is no longer any official written history available for these MV's.

They way folks can determine a wee bit of information on their jeep's whereabouts over the years it was in the military is to carefully sand down the areas of the body that markings are usually found on and record them for later reference. If you were fortunate enough to find your jeep's original hood number under it's paint you have another avenue. Another very time consuming way is to peruse all the MV related web sites and official military base and unit web sites looking for period photos that may show their jeep's hood number.

magnum · Post by **magnum** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 9:43 am

Wes,

The original markings are still there. The original US Army serial numbers as well as the jeep serial numbers. Any ideass where to go from here? Thanks,

Post by **wesk** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 10:27 am

The serial numbers on the dash plate and the patent plate will only help with ID'g the date of delivery of the jeep. The only way the hood REGISTRATION numbers can help with the jeep's history is if you can find any period military photos that show that hood number on the jeep in the photo. There are no military documents remaining today that can be used with those numbers to determine the history of the jeep.

That leaves looking for original unit markings on the bumpers, bumperettes, windshield skin etc under the various layers of paint. If you can not find any markings in those places then you are out of luck.

magnum · Post by **magnum** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 8:32 pm

Wes,

I have the markings on the hood, gas can rack, hinges, and bumperettes. Also, the sate of delivery was 3/52. This jeep is 98% correct and we did a body off retoration.

Post by **wesk** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 12:53 am

Maybe we are speaking in two different languages?

You asked:

Just was wondering how to identify which unit and/or group it was in and maybe some history behind it. If anyone can help, I would appreciate it.

If you already have the unit markings on the bumper and bumperettes then you should already know what unit it was in? My replies each assumed you had no unit markings. Only hood numbers and data plates. Any additional history can only be found as I stated above.

magnum · Post by **magnum** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 8:59 am

Wes,

The markings on the bumperettes are the punched numbers to identify each piece. The only identification marking I have are the jeeps serial number from Willys and the hoop number from the Army. Sorry for the confusion and thanks for the info.

magnum · Post by **magnum** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 12:13 pm

Wes,

had one question. Do you know which of the two amp gauges are correct. The one it came with is detailed in color with a single waterproof connection. The others I have seen are a simple charge and discharge. Please let me know if you have any idea which ones are correct. Thanks!

Post by **wesk** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 12:57 pm

The single connector color ranged gage is actually a voltmeter and it must be used with the later transistorized voltage regulator and any of the later military alternator systems.

The amp meter is only used with the early Auto-lite and Delco 25 amp mechanical voltage regulators. These two voltage regulators have a built in shunt for the amp meter. The shunt info is fed to the original amp meter on wires #8 & #9. The later transistorized voltage regulators for both the 25 amp DC generator system and the 100 amp alternator have no shunt in them and wires #8 & #9 have no real use. The later 60 amp military alternator does not use an external voltage regulator and therefore #8 & #9 still have no use.

Your installation should have #8 & #9 wires dead ended and insulated or taped up and the single volt meter positive lead is connected to either an extra leg on the #27 instrument power spider harness or the accessory lead #85 or 86 on the main switch. You can buy a 5 or 6 leg instrument power harness from Saturn Surplus for $12.59. The negative terminal of the volt meter should have a ground wire run from it to the firewall to insure better operation of the voltmeter. Using the old #8 or 9 can result in running the batteries down when the jeep is stored for any length of time.