wheel bearing
- BigJim
- Member
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 6:00 pm
- Location: Sumter S.C.
wheel bearing
This is my first post so here goes.I have a 1955 M38 A1.I believe the rear driver side wheel bearing has failed.I finally managed to get the hub off(that nearly reqired a trip to the ER) only to discover the wheel bearings are still not where I can get to them.The outer one appeared to be ok.After attempting to remove it,it is no longer ok.I assume the axle needs to come out.I slipped the hub back on and put on the axle nut and tried to use that as a slide hammer to pull it but it did not budge.What do I do now? HELP!
- rdsar2k
- Jeep Enthusiast

- Posts: 289
- Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2007 6:00 pm
- Location: Fort Smith Arkansas
bolts
You did remove the 4 bolts that retain the bearing and the brake backing plate? A hub remover is needed for these axles to keep from damaging the drum and other parts. A slide hammer may be needed to remove the axle/bearing. All brake parts and seals should be removed and you should be staring at the entire bearing with just the axle sticking out of it when you are trying to remove the bearing. there is nothing in the carrier to retain the axle. You can also remove all the stuff on the other side and tap the axle shaft there to drive the bad one out but be gentile or you will cause damage to the spacer in the carrier spider gear.
1955 M170
1980 JD 450C
1948 Ford 8N
2008 Rubicon Unlimited MyGig
1980 JD 450C
1948 Ford 8N
2008 Rubicon Unlimited MyGig
- BigJim
- Member
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 6:00 pm
- Location: Sumter S.C.
wheel bearing
I have removed everything and now I am looking at the axle shaft itself and the outer edge of the outside bearing.I assume there is another one behind that one.How do I actually pull the axle itself out.Thanks Jim
- wesk
- Site Administrator

- Posts: 16469
- Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 6:00 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
It's all in your TM 9-8015-2. If you don't have the manual go to our Downloads page and download the TM 9-1804B for the M38's running gear since the axle removal is the same and follow the directions.
This link will get you to the right page:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... oad&cid=39
Then click on the TM 9-1804B link to download the manual for free:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... it&lid=125
This is the correct puller for the hub and drum:

The next two illustrations are from the CJ service manual but are the same.


This link will get you to the right page:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... oad&cid=39
Then click on the TM 9-1804B link to download the manual for free:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... it&lid=125
This is the correct puller for the hub and drum:

The next two illustrations are from the CJ service manual but are the same.


Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- BigJim
- Member
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 6:00 pm
- Location: Sumter S.C.
wheel bearing
Thanks Wes.I had no idea there was so much information available on this old jeep.I won't be so afraid of tearing up something in the future knowing there are people who can tell me how to fix it.I will give this a try and hopefully I can get the axle out.When I do, is this bearing a common one I can find at my local parts store or will I need to order it from somewhere.And also while we are on that subject,I broke the brake line going to that wheel.Is that something I will need to order from somewhere or can I get it locally.I already have one of the front ones plugged off so would it make sense to order a brake line kit and replace them all.Thanks again.Jim
- BigJim
- Member
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 6:00 pm
- Location: Sumter S.C.
wheel bearing
Just wanted you guys to know the info you gave me was a huge help.It is not back on the road yet but the bearing has been replaced and it is all back together,hopefully correctly.Just a few more small items like repairing the brake line that broke when I tried to take it off.Thanks for the help.Jim
- wesk
- Site Administrator

- Posts: 16469
- Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 6:00 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
You can measure the length of the line and pick up a generic replacement length of assembled tubing that is equal or slightly longer in length.
When you start trying to loosen the old rusty brake line fittings you should soak the end of the tube at the fitting with a good penetrating fluid like PB Blaster. Use a wrench to hold whatever the fitting is threaded into, a wrench on the fitting and a small vice grip on the tubing. Make very small loosen and tighten movements until it all frees itself up.
When you start trying to loosen the old rusty brake line fittings you should soak the end of the tube at the fitting with a good penetrating fluid like PB Blaster. Use a wrench to hold whatever the fitting is threaded into, a wrench on the fitting and a small vice grip on the tubing. Make very small loosen and tighten movements until it all frees itself up.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php