So, how much paint
- Bretto
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So, how much paint
I'm going to be ordering some 23070 paint and red oxide primer real real soon. Is 2 gals of each good enough, over kill? The M38 is getting EVERYTHING painted. I tried to search, sorry guys.
- Bretto
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- Keith
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- Cacti_Ken
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- 53a1
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For the rims, frame, tub, axles I've used one gallon primer, and 1 3/4 gal green. I've also used 14 cans primer spray cans and 10 spray cans green on other parts.
I still need to paint dash, hood, one fender and some additional small parts.
BTW, the RAPCO paint is already thinned.
I used three coats primer and four coats color on frame and tub and rims. The smaller parts usually get one coat primer and two coats color or one coat primer and one coat color.
I don't like to load the spray gun unless it's a major part so I use a lot of spray cans.
I still need to paint dash, hood, one fender and some additional small parts.
BTW, the RAPCO paint is already thinned.
I used three coats primer and four coats color on frame and tub and rims. The smaller parts usually get one coat primer and two coats color or one coat primer and one coat color.
I don't like to load the spray gun unless it's a major part so I use a lot of spray cans.
'53 M38A1 X2
- TomM
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paint
If you have taken your jeep down to every little bracket and bolt the painting will take up more material than usual.
I went through 2 gallons for the body, all brackets, seats etc. Budget another gallon for wheels, frame, spills and rework.
Great advice on getting the spray cans along with your gallons too. You will be reaching for those to cover missed spots, small parts and cover up wrench scratches. Package up your excess in 1quart cans available at a paint store. That way you will have paint from your original batch for future touch ups.
Let us know how the painting goes.
Tom
I went through 2 gallons for the body, all brackets, seats etc. Budget another gallon for wheels, frame, spills and rework.
Great advice on getting the spray cans along with your gallons too. You will be reaching for those to cover missed spots, small parts and cover up wrench scratches. Package up your excess in 1quart cans available at a paint store. That way you will have paint from your original batch for future touch ups.
Let us know how the painting goes.
Tom
- Bretto
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???53a1 wrote:BTW, the RAPCO paint is already thinned.
Their website shows thinning instructions that leads me to believe its not. 4:1, paint:thinner I'm sure the cans are.
www.rapcoparts.com/pathrenew.html
AJP only shows 2:1 thinning. So I'm confused.
Thanks for the info guys.
Brett
- 53a1
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I don't know. I would follow the directions and see what the results are like.
I'm not the pro but I ignored the instructions and I shot it straight out of the can and it turned out nice. I had no paint runs and no orange peel so I left it be. Could be the fact I was painting in the hot summer.
Should be the consistancy of milk but I went a little thicker because my gun didn't complain.
I'm not the pro but I ignored the instructions and I shot it straight out of the can and it turned out nice. I had no paint runs and no orange peel so I left it be. Could be the fact I was painting in the hot summer.
Should be the consistancy of milk but I went a little thicker because my gun didn't complain.
'53 M38A1 X2
- madmike
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I am in the process of painting mine now and I would like to know if adding hardener only makes the paint dry faster. Some of the panels I have done seem prone to scratching rather easily. Like when brushing/wiping dust off the surfaces. So...does hardener also make the finish more durable?
Also, I agree with the quantities given for a complete repaint. I have already used nearly a gallon and still have the frame and body to do. The small parts take a lot more paint than you think they would due to the overspray loss. A detail gun for small parts will help cut down that loss. Also, you cannot find the darker marine corp green in spray cans so I use a little more of my gallons because of that.
Mike
Also, I agree with the quantities given for a complete repaint. I have already used nearly a gallon and still have the frame and body to do. The small parts take a lot more paint than you think they would due to the overspray loss. A detail gun for small parts will help cut down that loss. Also, you cannot find the darker marine corp green in spray cans so I use a little more of my gallons because of that.
Mike
- Sam-Helm
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- RimfireJim
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We're using a hardener with modern acrylic enamel (custom-mixed Restoration Shop brand from TCP Global), mainly for the shorter curing time at the cost of dealing with an isocyanate product. Their hardener adds gloss, so the enamel was made up flat so that the end product comes out semi-gloss. I don't know if that is true for all hardeners. If your starting paint is already semi-gloss, the addition of a hardener could add too much gloss.
-Jim
-Jim
Jim M.
1952 M38 son-father project
Discovering more worn out parts, one assembly at a time
1952 M38 son-father project
Discovering more worn out parts, one assembly at a time
- RICKG
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I BOUGHT 3 GAL 20370 AND 1 GAL RED OXIDE PRIMER AND A
MIXED CASE OF THEIR (GILLESPIE FROM RAPCO) 20370 AND
SEMI GLOSS (NICE) BLACK SPRAY CANS. MY COMPLETED
ROLLING CHASSIS TOOK ABOUT 3/4 GAL OF THE 20370 SO IVE
GOT 2-1/4 GAL 23070 LEFT-MY SHEET METAL IS IN THE BOOTH
AS WE SPEAK-ILL LET YOU KNOW. BTW, DONT SKIMP ON YOUR
PAINT QTY PURCHASE-THE EPA AND HAS-MAT CHARGES TO SHIP
AN EXTRA GALLON TO FINISH YOUR JOB FAR EXCEED HAVING A LITTLE PAINT LEFT OVER. THE LEFT OVER PAINT IS SURE HANDY, SPECIALLY IF YOUVE GOT A SMALL TOUCH UP GUN.
MIXED CASE OF THEIR (GILLESPIE FROM RAPCO) 20370 AND
SEMI GLOSS (NICE) BLACK SPRAY CANS. MY COMPLETED
ROLLING CHASSIS TOOK ABOUT 3/4 GAL OF THE 20370 SO IVE
GOT 2-1/4 GAL 23070 LEFT-MY SHEET METAL IS IN THE BOOTH
AS WE SPEAK-ILL LET YOU KNOW. BTW, DONT SKIMP ON YOUR
PAINT QTY PURCHASE-THE EPA AND HAS-MAT CHARGES TO SHIP
AN EXTRA GALLON TO FINISH YOUR JOB FAR EXCEED HAVING A LITTLE PAINT LEFT OVER. THE LEFT OVER PAINT IS SURE HANDY, SPECIALLY IF YOUVE GOT A SMALL TOUCH UP GUN.
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a

