OIL PAN LEAK
- RICKG
- Jeep Legend

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- Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 6:00 pm
- Location: SO IDAHO
OIL PAN LEAK
DUMPED THE BREAK-IN OIL INTO MY FRESH MOTOR-
GUESS WHAT-A LEAK BETWEEN THE OILPAN AND THE
SKID PLATE->*^$%#@*!! I KNOW THE PANS GOTTA
COME BACK OFF FOR REPAIR>*&^$%#@. WHAT TO
DO ?? MELT SOME BRASS?? NO MAGIC BULLET RIGHT??
HELP!!
GUESS WHAT-A LEAK BETWEEN THE OILPAN AND THE
SKID PLATE->*^$%#@*!! I KNOW THE PANS GOTTA
COME BACK OFF FOR REPAIR>*&^$%#@. WHAT TO
DO ?? MELT SOME BRASS?? NO MAGIC BULLET RIGHT??
HELP!!
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
- dod03-52
- Contributor

- Posts: 91
- Joined: Thu Nov 13, 2008 6:00 pm
- Location: Minnesota
I fixed mine like this:
1. duct tape a shop vac to the oil fill tube
2. close the fording valves so the crankcase holds the vacuum
3. locate the leaks areas with brake cleaner---the fluid will suck in and clean the passage
4. Get a can of Permatex liquid form-a-gasket
5. with vacuum applied--put the permatex in the leak area--it will be sucked in--continue to apply and unplug the vacuum--the sealer will continue to be pulled in until the vacuum drops off---done
This is a FAA approved repair for certian fuel leaks on airplanes and I did it many times--and works on oil leaks in jeeps.
1. duct tape a shop vac to the oil fill tube
2. close the fording valves so the crankcase holds the vacuum
3. locate the leaks areas with brake cleaner---the fluid will suck in and clean the passage
4. Get a can of Permatex liquid form-a-gasket
5. with vacuum applied--put the permatex in the leak area--it will be sucked in--continue to apply and unplug the vacuum--the sealer will continue to be pulled in until the vacuum drops off---done
This is a FAA approved repair for certian fuel leaks on airplanes and I did it many times--and works on oil leaks in jeeps.
- wesk
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I would like to see that FAA approval. Are you sure it was for Permatex gasket maker? It should have been for Pro-Seal which is an approved aircraft fuel system sealant as a fillet material for exterior panels and glass. . I've been working aircraft since the 60's and have been using Pro-Seal since the 60's as well. I'd recommend the Pro-Seal which can be had for less than $20 a ahort tube.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- dod03-52
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- Location: Minnesota
- RICKG
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- TomM
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- Location: Rhode Island
Leak
Rick,
Are you saying that your oil pan is leaking without the engine running?
Just oil in the pan is leaking out the pan?
I originally thought you were saying that the rear main seal was leaking but it its just the pan you are in better shape.
If it is only the pan and not seals you might want to pull down the pan. Its not a big job and gaskets are only a few bucks in the off case yours gets damaged.
If your leak is caused by rust the permatex suck-in process may solve the symptom for a while but the rust problem will continue and you will have another leak at some time. If the problem is a spot weld tore sheet metal you can weld the tear and the problem is permanently solved.
Tom
Are you saying that your oil pan is leaking without the engine running?
Just oil in the pan is leaking out the pan?
I originally thought you were saying that the rear main seal was leaking but it its just the pan you are in better shape.
If it is only the pan and not seals you might want to pull down the pan. Its not a big job and gaskets are only a few bucks in the off case yours gets damaged.
If your leak is caused by rust the permatex suck-in process may solve the symptom for a while but the rust problem will continue and you will have another leak at some time. If the problem is a spot weld tore sheet metal you can weld the tear and the problem is permanently solved.
Tom
- RICKG
- Jeep Legend

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That's right Tom, oil is dripping from the pan, not the seals.
When the motor was being built there was pitting on the interior
floor of the pan. The pan was chemically stripped then the suspect
areas were welded w/brass (braised??). Motor hasnt been run since rebuild but theres a drip,drip,drip originating somewhere between the
skid plate and the exterior pan floor.
When the motor was being built there was pitting on the interior
floor of the pan. The pan was chemically stripped then the suspect
areas were welded w/brass (braised??). Motor hasnt been run since rebuild but theres a drip,drip,drip originating somewhere between the
skid plate and the exterior pan floor.
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
- Bretto
- Jeep Legend

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- Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2010 6:00 pm
- Location: Orem, UT
Pull the pan, inspect the spot welds and if there are cracks, get em welded up. I don't get why they would braze it.
I'd get a tub of water big enough to hold the pan. Put the oil pan plug in place. Fill up tub with water and float the oil pan in it. Push the pan down into the water but dont dunk the rim. This will force water from the outside in into any crack or leak that you should be able to see. You could do this in your bathtub to, just clean the pan well or the Mrs will be after you.
I'd get a tub of water big enough to hold the pan. Put the oil pan plug in place. Fill up tub with water and float the oil pan in it. Push the pan down into the water but dont dunk the rim. This will force water from the outside in into any crack or leak that you should be able to see. You could do this in your bathtub to, just clean the pan well or the Mrs will be after you.
- RICKG
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- RimfireJim
- Contributor

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- Location: Escondido, CA
"brazed", unless it was put in a skillet and cooked with liquidRICKG wrote: suspect areas were welded w/brass (braised??).
I would think brazing would be adequate to repair leaking spots in an oil pan, it not being under any pressure. It's not as strong as welding, but I don't think strength is the issue. Brass is good about flowing into small holes and cracks.
-Jim
Jim M.
1952 M38 son-father project
Discovering more worn out parts, one assembly at a time
1952 M38 son-father project
Discovering more worn out parts, one assembly at a time
- RICKG
- Jeep Legend

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- Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 6:00 pm
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Hey bretto-I did like you suggested (sort of) and floated the pan in
the bathtub during my bubblebath last nite. The missus didnt even
blink-she just thought another carrier joined my bathtub battle group
Seriously tho-2 pinholes were evident immediately-easy fix, thx. rick
the bathtub during my bubblebath last nite. The missus didnt even
blink-she just thought another carrier joined my bathtub battle group
Seriously tho-2 pinholes were evident immediately-easy fix, thx. rick
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
- Bretto
- Jeep Legend

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- Location: Orem, UT
- RICKG
- Jeep Legend

- Posts: 1752
- Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 6:00 pm
- Location: SO IDAHO
ive got 2 oilpans with the same problem. around the leaks there are
substantial areas of pitting making for some thin steel. my blacksmith
(can you believe these guys are still around??) thinks we could heat
the pans in the forge so the temps are consistent, then float in
molten brass-he's got several different types of brass/tin materials.
i'll keep you posted..
substantial areas of pitting making for some thin steel. my blacksmith
(can you believe these guys are still around??) thinks we could heat
the pans in the forge so the temps are consistent, then float in
molten brass-he's got several different types of brass/tin materials.
i'll keep you posted..
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
- RimfireJim
- Contributor

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- Location: Escondido, CA
The forge and floating in brass sounds like way overkill. Heck, if it's just a couple of pinholes, and on the inside like you wrote above, you should be be able to just solder or braze them from the inside where you can get the metal nice and clean.
I think there might be more blacksmiths around now than 10 or 20 years ago. Around here, it is a growing hobby, one I want to try someday. I found a portable forge with blower, but I still need to find an anvil and add the assortment of hammers and tongs. There's something magical about being able to change the shape of steel with your own power.
I think there might be more blacksmiths around now than 10 or 20 years ago. Around here, it is a growing hobby, one I want to try someday. I found a portable forge with blower, but I still need to find an anvil and add the assortment of hammers and tongs. There's something magical about being able to change the shape of steel with your own power.
Jim M.
1952 M38 son-father project
Discovering more worn out parts, one assembly at a time
1952 M38 son-father project
Discovering more worn out parts, one assembly at a time
- RICKG
- Jeep Legend

- Posts: 1752
- Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 6:00 pm
- Location: SO IDAHO
after a lot of work and brass i've failed to plug the leak(s).
the pitting on the interior pan bottom has eroded so much
metal away that the heating process for brazing opens up
2 more pinholes or cracks for every hole filled..
i think i'll be posting under "wanted" for a new or used
(non leaking) oilpan. rick
the pitting on the interior pan bottom has eroded so much
metal away that the heating process for brazing opens up
2 more pinholes or cracks for every hole filled..
i think i'll be posting under "wanted" for a new or used
(non leaking) oilpan. rick
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a

