Removing stuck brake drums
- nealseale
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- Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2010 6:00 pm
- Location: Seale, Alabama
Removing stuck brake drums
Help, I'm trying to remove the brake drums off my m38a1 and have been successful on all but the right front. I've rotated the shoe adjusting levers as much as possible, the drum rotates back and forth on the axle easily, and will pull off a fraction of an inch, have cleaned around the axle as much as possible. Is there a way to grip the drum to pull it off, or other suggestions??
Thanks for all ya'lls help, this would be quite frustrating without knowing ya'll are here!
Bill
Thanks for all ya'lls help, this would be quite frustrating without knowing ya'll are here!
Bill
- mckim
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All four of my brake drums were stuck when I tried to remove them. What I ended up doing was tapping the edge of the drum from the back side with a hammer, right next to the backing plate. At least on mine (aftermarket), there is a lip there. You don't want to whack it too hard, but working your way around while you rotate the drum should do the trick.
Stuart
(By the way, this should probably go in the Technical KB section.
)
Stuart
(By the way, this should probably go in the Technical KB section.
1952 M38 - restoration in process, 1000 miles away...
- major519
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- Location: Nipissing Ontario
I have done dozens of brake jobs on a vast array of vehicles.
Sometimes they are downright nasty.
As my father used to say, begin with gentle persuasion and go from there...Many times you need to get downright ugly.
Your problem is typical, the shoes are welded to the drum. I am sure when you try to pry off the drum it wants to spring back. Considering that this is the condition, prying and pulling the drum off springs, shoes and all is the most likely outcome as you will need to do a brake replacement job anyhow. Don't beat on the drums with a steel hammer, use a brass one, a block of wood or a rubber mallet if need be. I have often found a couple pry bars between the drum and backing plate works.
Sometimes they are downright nasty.
As my father used to say, begin with gentle persuasion and go from there...Many times you need to get downright ugly.
Your problem is typical, the shoes are welded to the drum. I am sure when you try to pry off the drum it wants to spring back. Considering that this is the condition, prying and pulling the drum off springs, shoes and all is the most likely outcome as you will need to do a brake replacement job anyhow. Don't beat on the drums with a steel hammer, use a brass one, a block of wood or a rubber mallet if need be. I have often found a couple pry bars between the drum and backing plate works.
- wesk
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Have you removed the three counter sunk screws that hold the drum to the hub?
Does the drum rotate longitudinally? (around it's access, like spinning the tire)
Does the drum rotate longitudinally? (around it's access, like spinning the tire)
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- nealseale
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- Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2010 6:00 pm
- Location: Seale, Alabama
Thanks for the input! The 3 screws were out. The drum rotates longitudinally, as much as the lug bolts will allow. Since it rotates on the axle I don't think it is frozen to the axle, it's as if there is a small lip on the back of the drum (from wear) that is keeping it from being pulled off. I have rotated the cams that push the brake shoes out, so the axle rotates without a drag from the shoes.
I think I need to tap (hit/hammer) the back of the drum but the backing plate covers the back of the drum and I'm not seeing a way to access the edges of the drum from the back. Maybe I'm not seeing something.
Thanks again for the help.
Bill
I think I need to tap (hit/hammer) the back of the drum but the backing plate covers the back of the drum and I'm not seeing a way to access the edges of the drum from the back. Maybe I'm not seeing something.
Thanks again for the help.
Bill
- wesk
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If the brake shoes are not stuck to the inside of the drums and are just catching on the small wear ridge at the back edge of the drum then I would move on to pulling the hub and drum together. Especially on the rear axle where you can use the correct hub puller.

Rear axle
On the front just remove the hub spindle nuts and lock washer and then reinstall the wheel and tire and pull against the tire.

Rear axle
On the front just remove the hub spindle nuts and lock washer and then reinstall the wheel and tire and pull against the tire.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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DaveM38A1
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Brake Drum removal
Some of those that have been on there for a while can bee stubborn, I have removed some off old frames that I cut off the head of the retaining pins, loosened and removed the eccentric cams and pulled the hub with a puller tapping with a hammer around the drum,with the shoes collapsing in as the drums come off.
Dave
Dave
- nealseale
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- wesk
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Use the HUB Puller illustrated above. A pulley puller that grasps the edges of the drum will warp the drum. Also on the rear axle leave the nut on the shaft. Just loosen it a few turns. When the hubs brake loose they can fly right off the axle and across the room. On the front just install the wheel and tire and you should be able to pull her off with the extra leverage. Somtimes a 3 foot piece of 4x4 post makes a good persuader.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- RimfireJim
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- Location: Escondido, CA
One source of a hub puller similar to the one Wes shows: http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-7394.aspx I haven't bought anything from these guys (yet), but their prices are good and my OTC flaring tool does a better job than a Lisle one I tried first and seems to be well made despite being an import (Taiwan).
A cheaper alternative: http://www.jcwhitney.com/professional-3 ... ilterid=j1 Notes 1) I haven't tried this one either, but 2) one reviewer said it worked great on his old Jeep.
Jim
A cheaper alternative: http://www.jcwhitney.com/professional-3 ... ilterid=j1 Notes 1) I haven't tried this one either, but 2) one reviewer said it worked great on his old Jeep.
Jim
Jim M.
1952 M38 son-father project
Discovering more worn out parts, one assembly at a time
1952 M38 son-father project
Discovering more worn out parts, one assembly at a time
- nealseale
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- Location: Seale, Alabama
- wesk
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Glad it worked for you.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
