I am ready to put the head back on my F head engine and when chasing threads noticed the front head bolt, that also holds the oil filter bracket, is exposed to water. The manual does not mention putting any sealer on this bolt but in the past, on other engines, it has been recommended to seal any bolt on a water jacket. Is there no need to worry or should I seal it and with what. I used to use number 2 Permatex but there is probably a better thread sealer nowadays.
Also, the head gasket does not have a description of the correct side up. If my memory is correct, the side with the metal showing between and across to cylinders 2 and 3 is the side to the cylinder head. The other side only has the outline of the combustion chamber with no connecting metal. Can anyone confirm. Obviously it's been awhile since I built an engine.
I just went thru that with my rebuilt L-134 flattie.
I had 2 coolant leaks at the headbolts and the system
wasn't even under pressure. I used permatex #1-
problem solved (for now).
#1 is the hardening variety p-tex, the #2 is non-
hardening-dont know if theres a drawback to
either one.
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
Thanks for the fast response. It's kinda what I thought. If it can go wrong it will-says Murphy. The hardening type would, I think, seal but may cause a problem on removal. That's why I was thinking #2. I used to use the #2 on every gasket and hose that was next to water and NEVER had a leak. Some thought it overkill but I repeat, I never had a leak. I suppose it could cause an incorrect torque reading with compound on a bolt. Now I am wondering if my F head has another bolt on a water jacket. Going to have to get a flashlight out.
I suppose it could cause an incorrect torque reading with compound on a bolt.
Torque values are given for unlubricated, clean threads. What about using the friction modifying Permatex #2 or3 on the threads? Torque values should be reduced to avoid overtorquing the fasteners. By how much?
Well if we mess up the rebuild, he will need that raincoat to keep the radiator water off of him.
Not getting an answer to the head gasket question, I went by the machine shop/engine builder I use. The gasket is metal rimmed around the cylinders and for lack of knowing the material, an asbestos looking fiber compound on the rest of it. He said I was correct about the connecting metal side being up. I had planned on using copper spray to coat both sides of this gasket but he said it's not necessary with that type of gasket. The older metal gasket I removed is another story. It had been coated on both sides and that is necessary on those. He said if I insisted on using the copper compound, to lightly spray the gasket. The gasket set I am using came from Midwest Military and the gaskets are all fresh as opposed to NOS.
Thought those venturing into this territory would like to know.
Cylinder head installation tomorrow after I move my neighbors 1920 Chevrolet Baby Grand touring car. It's running now but not licensed and he is afraid to put it on the highway out to his place. Pretty neat open car that is for sale if anyone want's to enter a new world of terminology and engineering.
A word of caution on head gaskets. The manuals description of the installation procedure is based on the Willys OEM head gasket which if I recall correctly was the old Felpro gasket. Any new gasket you buy today will not be the same gasket. Some are all metal, some are composite and metal and some are even no re-torque necessary gaskets. Each manufacturer includes an installation instruction sheet with their gasket. They are the instructions you should be following. Use the appropriate shop manual along with the gasket manufacturer's data and where there is conflict between the two the gasket manufactures directions take precedence.
There are metallic/composition compound gaskets out there whose metal side does not go up.
Not seeing instructions in the gasket set, I just called John Bizal at Midwest. He said there are not instructions in the set and that his engine builder does not put anything on the gasket. He mentioned that if you are putting the head gasket on today, leave the valve cover off and come back tomorrow and retorque as some gaskets will crush down somewhat. That will be my plan of attack.
Okay. Last post on this issue. I just got a pen light out and checked the block for more bolts on a water jacket. They appear to ALL be on water jacket. Maybe a couple are not but the bottom of the hole may just be cruded over. I'm coating all the bolts with sealant.
That's the easiest and simplest way. Let's you torque all the same. You should go to the web site of manufacturer of your head gasket for tech info on their gasket. US made gaskets will have the manufacturer's name on it.
