steering bell crank

Wiltshireboy · Post by **Wiltshireboy** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:59 am

I have just had the jeep MOT tested (it Passed) but an advisory notice came up about the steering bell crank arm, its main pivot joint was flexing a bit too much for the examiners liking. I have looked in some of the downloadable maintenance manuals but cant find more than a cursory reference to this part. Does the pivot joint have a replaceable bush or do I have to replace the whole part? (or any other ideas?)
Thanks Andy

evanso1975 · Post by **evanso1975** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 1:20 pm

Hello Andy,

Check the parts vendors' websites. I've seen a "steering bellcrank repair kit" advertised, but I can't remember where.

Wbr,
Owen.

oilleaker1 · Post by **oilleaker1** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 5:51 pm

Bellcrank repair kit replaces the seals, needle bearing cages, and main pin or bolt assembly. Not tough to fix at all. The ball end of you bellcrank that fits the end of the rod or draglink to the steering box should also be looked at. It can get bad flat spots to the ball. You may need that also. To check it you need to turn the slotted end out after removeing the cotter pin. Then you can shift the ball end over to drop out the side. Make sure the drag link ends are clean, lubed and the springs in each end are not broken. Read a Jeep manual on how to adjust it when going back together. I just did all of this

John

artificer · Post by **artificer** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 12:51 pm

Not tough to fix at all.

Replacing the bell crank pin is not a very easy task @ all.

You can disassemble measure the pin diameter the have a bush made to press fit the bell crank [drilled & grooved for greasing]....that will remove the slop & improve your steering.

As has been mentioned the condition of all the steering components balls etc are critical & should be in good serviceable condition....the MOT inspector can't see these but you will.

RimfireJim · Post by **RimfireJim** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 1:33 pm

artificer wrote:
Not tough to fix at all.
Replacing the bell crank pin is not a very easy task @ all.

Not sure why you say this - on an M38A1 (and M38) it's pretty straightforward: disconnect the tie rod end and drag link from the bellcrank, take off the nut and washer off the top of the bellcrank shaft, loosen the clamp bolt in the bracket, and slide the shaft out of the bracket. Admittedly, you need the right tool to disconnect the tie rod end.

You can disassemble measure the pin diameter the have a bush made to press fit the bell crank [drilled & grooved for greasing]....that will remove the slop & improve your steering.

Why would you do this? The design uses needle bearings that run on races on the shaft, and replacement parts for the bearings and shaft are available. The crank bore itself shouldn't be worn, because outer races of the needle bearings take the wear, not the crank. Your suggestion sounds like it is for a design that uses solid bushings, not needle bearings.

It's interesting that the bellcrank seems to have gotten the short end of the stick with regards to documentation in all of the manuals for both the M38 and M38A1: no illustrations in any of them (oops, belay that - just found an exploded view on p. 48 of TM9-1804B, power train, body and frame for M38, under "Disassembly of vehicle into major components", of all places), and not even included in the parts manual for the A1.
Jim

Post by **wesk** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 2:00 pm

Yes the bellcrank repair kit is a straight forward simple replacement. However if the socket on the crossmember was battered by a loose vertical pin then you may find the new pin will also wobble in the socket no matter how tight you make the pinch bolt. Overtightening the nut on the vertical pin does not solve this issue. The solution is replace (socket or crossmember) or ream and bush old socket.

Just a reminder the bell crank repair kits service two different bellcrank diameters. 7/8" and 1" so get the correct kit.

artificer · Post by **artificer** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 4:24 pm

My mistake....if not axle mounted?

RimfireJim · Post by **RimfireJim** » Fri Aug 05, 2011 5:53 pm

wesk wrote: Just a reminder the bell crank repair kits service two different bellcrank diameters. 7/8" and 1" so get the correct kit.

I think maybe you mean 3/4" and 7/8"? According to descriptions on Walck's website, which matches others:
3/4" for MB, GPW and CJ2A up to serial number 199079
7/8" for CJ2A after serial number 199079, CJ3A, CJ3B, CJ5, CJ6, DJ, FC 150, M38 and M38A1 models up to 1966
1-1/8" for 1966-1971 CJ5 and CJ6

Jim

Post by **wesk** » Fri Aug 05, 2011 10:39 pm

Your point Jim. You stumped the dummy.